Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build

[rbm]

It would be important to understand the route I took to install the front brake lines to understand the lengths I chose.



As you can see from this photo, I've taken a circuitous path from the master cylinder to the far left side of the forks, curved back towards the right and then merged into the T-splitter.  This adds a significant length to the line but I chose this to:

• ensure plenty of slack to accommodate movement in the steering
• take advantage of cable clamps that were readily available on the headlight ears and triple tree
• future-proofing for any size handlebars that I may choose to install in the future

The lines from the T-splitter to the calipers are much more direct.  Maybe the length is because of the choice of a 45 degree banjo.  Maybe a different banjo would result in a different length line as well as a different routing.

[jjs1234]

Buying brake cables tonight. Finished almost everything, but it wouldn't start. Turns out it was the ecu (?) Behind the forks. Reseated the connector and it turned over.

The muffler is out, so not a good idea to start.

But take a look, I'm extremely proud:

[The Dude]

Nice.
Take your time,making sure it's safe to ride.

[jjs1234]

Nice.
Take your time,making sure it's safe to ride.

I have been torquing everything to spec. I found I often over-tightened things.

The other thing that I am mad about is I bought ken-sean mirrors... well the right side has threads that go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise to tighten)... what the f is up with that?

[Laitch]

The other thing that I am mad about is I bought ken-sean mirrors... well the right side has threads that go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise to tighten)... what the f is up with that?

Your right-side mirror was made to fit Yamahas which have left-hand threads on the right mirror mounts. There is a right-side, right-hand stem unit for other motorcycles. For each style of mirror there might be three model numbers. If so, one of them is for Yamaha right-siders.

[jjs1234]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZT58Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

In the picture it shows the threads going the correct way...

[Laitch]

What can I say? The picture is of a left-hand mirror.

[jjs1234]

I might try to order this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Ken-Sean-911020-Composite-Mirror/dp/B0022ZRCFC/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

[Laitch]

I might try to order this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Ken-Sean-911020-Composite-Mirror/dp/B0022ZRCFC/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

The company site seems to verify that the part number for the first one you ordered was for a Yamaha and that this one is not, so it should work.

[jjs1234]

Thanks Laitch!! :2thumbup: :2thumbup:

Bought my lines from Venhill USA online on their custom brake line builder.
http://www.venhillusa.com/products/custom-brake-line-builder.html

Was going to buy DCC but man I saved 50%. It was 200$ for everything, inc 2 day shipping. Dime city was like ~$350.


Finishing up cleaning the muffler and exhaust. Then re-attaching, adding fluid and starting her up to check for any issues/leaks.


Also I bought 6Ohm Load Resistors. They plugged into my LEDs I have. But the flashing didnt change. Its just as fast as without bulbs. I am going to try the mod to disable a pin on the flasher relay.

[jjs1234]

Put fluid in there put some gas in, and put the Tank on and she started right up. I'll be at a little rough for a couple minutes and then all the sudden it seemed to smooth out a bit.

 Some extra noise was coming from the fuel pump, but I only put 1 gallon in.

Also the acewell doesn't seem to show the coolant temp which has me worried a bit because the fan also never came on.

[jjs1234]

Is the k100 temp sensor even able to read temperature or is it more like an off/on switch?

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[Laitch]

Also the acewell doesn't seem to show the coolant temp which has me worried a bit because the fan also never came on.

How long did you run it and what was the air temperature where you were running it?

[jjs1234]

80 Degrees and I think I ran it for 5 minutes, looking for leaks.

Am I correct in saying that the k100 coolant temp sensor is more like a switch? It doesn't actually relay temp to the Acewell?

To test could I short out the coolant sensor and it will turn on the fan?

Also, I believe Acewell sells some sort of adapter for one of the hoses to use their sensor...
(HERE: http://www.acewell.co.uk/Acewell%20Accessories%20and%20Sensors/Temperature%20Sensors/index.htm )
Unsure on size needed though.

Thanks Laitch.

[Laitch]

80 Degrees and I think I ran it for 5 minutes, looking for leaks.

5 minutes is too soon for that fan to turn on. That's a good thing. Your relationship with the Acewell is beyond me. What is slightly unsettling is picturing you doing prolonged idling of that bike at this stage. No leaks? That's good. Get it roadworthy, registered and insured then put it motion around the neighborhood. That'll expose glitches without washing down the combustion chambers with fuel.

If you idle it for 15 minutes and have wired it correctly, in temps of 80º either the fan will come on, the temp gauge will light or the bearings will seize.

In the meantime, you can do this.

[jjs1234]

On the acewell: I suppose so.

Thanks for the info, I will look at that today.

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[jc55]

That's some gorgeous paint work...it really pops. Nice work!

[jjs1234]

That's some gorgeous paint work...it really pops. Nice work!

Thanks so much JC 55. Here's some more pictures since I've got the seat. All I need now is those brake lines which should be coming in tomorrow. Then it's finished :D

I'm really happy that I had a vision in which didn't involve cutting the frame in any way. I really wanted to keep it as much original as possible which I believe I did minus the colors of course.

I wanted to be able to use the original hard cases which I still have but I still have to paint them.

The rear of course, I cut the rear mud flap too low so I will be getting a new one.

However I will cut it to below the license plate, which now that I realize, the license plate needs to be horizontal and in the rear of the bike in California to be legal.

 Right now it definitely gives it a seventies or eighties Sports look with no rear mud flap.

The last thing likely would be the muffler guard which is being powder coated flat black like the clutch or intermediate housing.

I certainly hope you enjoy the final product that I have created. As I certainly have enjoyed every moment.

I have not planned any of this in advance. I simply went with the flow on this and decided later on in the build that I would go with gold, red and black.

When I took pieces to the powder coater, I pretty much visualized what it would look like on my bike and then decided what color I wanted it to be. More than once I returned or called and changed the color.

The brackets that you see holding up the headlight were originally going to be red but I figured there was enough red on the bike already.

This is pretty much the final product.

 Both the front and rear will have red reflectors.

[The Dude]

Congrats on seeing this through,so far.You have achieved and I hope it remains a valuable reminder for many years in your possession.Seat is nice and even the bulk of the pillion not blending with the ducktail is eighties cool and the pillion would apreciate the comfort and visibility.
Just a couple of things,one aesthetic and one vulnerability and it's just my two cents worth.

 The red frame bar under the rider's seat looks odd.The rear seat cowling's black line is truncated.It would be aesthetically pleasing if this was visually connected to the black of the fuel tank.I know you are aware of this because of how you framed these images.Just black sticky tape over that horizontal red tubing would provide a link but whatever works and there is the traditional ugliness that the lower tank has that would be worth hiding in the same sweep.I'd make a long panel,blended to the existing at both ends,mounted using the original mounting features.

The radiator is some what vulnerable without the original stuff surrounding it.Its a quality item and showing it off makes sense but...hiding it some how with close hugging "protection"would make sense to me....
Anyway,Great stuff!

[jjs1234]

I would like to get the original side panels, I believe they're called, and a radiator cover as well.

I totally understand the aesthetic part though, as I had thought about cutting the hole off the back right and left side of the tank, the one that has the rubber on it.

As far as the side panels go do you think they should be flat black instead of metallic? I believe those would suffice in connecting the tank with the rear cowl.

Not only was I glad not to cut off the hoops on the tank, but I think if I wanted to get a tank bag it attaches there?

As usual, my typing on this phone always leaves my post somewhat hard to understand. Haha

Thanks for your advice The Dude.

Oh and I'd love to get a Parabellum windshield like the one that sold in the for sale Section.

[The Dude]

I would like to get the original side panels, I believe they're called, and a radiator cover as well.

I totally understand the aesthetic part though, as I had thought about cutting the hole off the back right and left side of the tank, the one that has the rubber on it.

As far as the side panels go do you think they should be flat black instead of metallic? I believe those would suffice in connecting the tank with the rear cowl.

Not only was I glad not to cut off the hoops on the tank, but I think if I wanted to get a tank bag it attaches there?

As usual, my typing on this phone always leaves my post somewhat hard to understand. Haha

Thanks for your advice The Dude.

Oh and I'd love to get a Parabellum windshield like the one that sold in the for sale Section.

Yeh,the original side panels would look good.since you missed the metalic paint run, flat black is next best thing.The aesthetic is more about shapes rather than finishes.That is first perceived over 20 feet away.
Good to not cut out the original stuff,leaves a psychological bridge back to standard at least.
The wind shield will help prevent your neck size from growing disproportionately from your shirt chest measurement size. :riding:
All the best

[Markus77]

You've done an amazing job with this project - looking forward to seeing it complete. Wanted to ask you how you got the exhaust so clean and shiny again? I'd like to get mine looking like that if possible - would appreciate any help:)

[jjs1234]

I used a wire wheel and 800-1000-1200 wet sandpaper. I also used a metal polish rubbing compound as well. Although to be honest I spent more time on the exhaust tubes rather than the muffler itself. Since I know the muffler will be partially covered with metal guard.

[Markus77]

Okay thanks - I may give this a try. You did a great job - they look like new. Wire brush and then the sand paper followed by the polish compound correct?

[jjs1234]

Yeah. I used wet Salford sandpaper too

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