Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build

[jjs1234]

Took them all apart... this is a k1100 fork.

Cleaned and felt the springs. No cracks or any anomalies :)

So based on posts from here and other forums, they both require 400cc for a full teardown.

Can you help me find out what fork goes on what side :(

All the parts look the same except the plungers.

Which one is left/right...oops!

[The Dude]

Nevermind my last post I ended up finding a manual. Here are some pictures. I am unsure how far you guys think I should disassemble?

I guess it's the bigger hole that is the difference in the "plungers"?Does the manual identify which is which?
Do the forks have a fork brace bridging across from one slider to the other?

[jjs1234]

They are being powder coated (the bottoms) I didnt keep track. Maybe it doesn't matter what side they go on?

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[Martin]

 As long as you keep all the LH & RH parts separate and assemble as such. I don't think it will matter if you put them on either side as long as the legs are internally the same.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

The "plungers" are called damper cartridges in Clymers and shock absorbers in the BMW parts fiche. Clymer's diagram has no distinction between left and right but the MAX BMW fiche indicates there is a left and a right with different part numbers, jjs. Left is 31 42 2 312 077; right is . . . 078. Finding any numbers on them?

[Laitch]

Find the arrows; look at the pictures; read the text. Bingo! You'll have a clue of which might go where—courtesy of an online pdf of the K1100RS/RT workshop manual on MOTOBRICK.COM.

[jjs1234]

Thanks. Looks like the right side is on the right side in the picture.

[Laitch]

Thanks. Looks like the right side is on the right side in the picture.

If you say so, jjs. I can't tell from here because I'd need to rotate the parts to be sure.

[jjs1234]

[TrueAce]

DAMN, Laitch, you a smart MF!

[Laitch]

DAMN, Laitch, you a smart MF!

You're probably smarter, Ace, but my childhood diet of cinnamon red-hots and Good and Plenty usually gives me the edge when it comes to interpreting Tapatalk the third time around. Hard to tell until the polls close and the voting is tabulated.

[TrueAce]

 :hehehe

[jjs1234]

Would like to know if anyone here has installed an acewell with a BEP 2.0 or can translate their 19mb PDF...

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[rbm]

I am helping  a guy install the  BEP 2.0 with an Acewell 2853 on his K75.

[jjs1234]

Also I've got some weird stuff they sent me, that I'm not sure what it is. I know for the BEP you just gotta plug it in. However their manual is not in English. I'm working on getting that converted while keeping the formatting and pictures.

 The guy who sold it to me, told me that since I run a older model (before the float sensor), that I will have to add a separate light for the 4 L warning.

Not super sure but I also believe that they sold a model that had the RFID start?

Upon looking at the acewell manual it seems to be that I bought a remote control switch for the lap timer...





Trying to figure out what this is but the manual doesn't have any pictures...





Just need to figure out where i am going to mount the BEP?


In other news, I am nearly finished with the wiring. Also painted some more plastic AND the tank, cowl, fenders and hubcap are being picked up today!! YAY!!

[rbm]

Also I've got some weird stuff they sent me, that I'm not sure what it is. I know for the BEP you just gotta plug it in. However their manual is not in English. I'm working on getting that converted while keeping the formatting and pictures.

I converted the BEP v1.6 manual to English but not the v2.0 manual.  I used Google Translate and the result was acceptable.

The guy who sold it to me, told me that since I run a older model (before the float sensor), that I will have to add a separate light for the 4 L warning.

Not true.  Based on the schematic,  the fuel level sensor circuit on the BEP is adaptable, and will handle the old and new style sensors equally well.

Not super sure but I also believe that they sold a model that had the RFID start?

Not to my knowledge.  Maru built the v1.6 which was a basic adapter, and then developed the v2.0 which improved the end user installation experience.  This was because the v1.6 required soldering skills.  The v2.0 box does away with the need for that skill.

Upon looking at the acewell manual it seems to be that I bought a remote control switch for the lap timer...

Most of your pictures are of another device other than the BEP 2.0.  I have no idea what it is actually.

The image below from your collection you posted is the only one of the BEP.  The main harness has been separated out and wrapped up in plastic flex tubing.  How do the wires terminate?

Trying to figure out what this is but the manual doesn't have any pictures...

No idea either.

Just need to figure out where i am going to mount the BEP?

It's a tight fit  but it can be placed under the tank on the right side near the ICU.

[jjs1234]

Thanks rbm.

The wires terminate the same, I just got rid of the old insulation and got the flex tubing instead.

The device I had no idea was water temp sensor and speed sensor. The lap timer price has a stopwatch switch and a mode button ( the same on the faceplate itself).

I will see if I can squeeze it in the right side by the tank, I was looking for a small compartment to fit it in that is watertight however

[jjs1234]

:)

[jjs1234]

[Martin]

Nice paint job  :2thumbup:
Regards Martin.

[rbm]

I converted the BEP v1.6 manual to English but not the v2.0 manual.  I used Google Translate and the result was acceptable.

The BEP 2.0 v4 manual in English

[jjs1234]

Thanks rbm. Just in case anyone has the acewell 4X53, I got the wiring diagram from them. If you ever need one just send them an email and they're all help you out. I didn't even have to use Google Translate.


http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57890fc522671/ACE-4X53W-XX%20A%20Wiring.pdf


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[jjs1234]

I converted the BEP v1.6 manual to English but not the v2.0 manual.  I used Google Translate and the result was acceptable.
Not true.  Based on the schematic,  the fuel level sensor circuit on the BEP is adaptable, and will handle the old and new style sensors equally well.
Not to my knowledge.  Maru built the v1.6 which was a basic adapter, and then developed the v2.0 which improved the end user installation experience.  This was because the v1.6 required soldering skills.  The v2.0 box does away with the need for that skill.

Most of your pictures are of another device other than the BEP 2.0.  I have no idea what it is actually.

The image below from your collection you posted is the only one of the BEP.  The main harness has been separated out and wrapped up in plastic flex tubing.  How do the wires terminate?


No idea either.
It's a tight fit  but it can be placed under the tank on the right side near the ICU.

Hey rbm,

Had a couple questions.

So far the RPM's do I simply attach it to one of the leads on the coil packs?

Also you had mentioned that the bep was adaptable for the fuel gauge? I was planning on plugging in the fuel wire into the fuel level part on the bep.

Does this suffice? Whould it simply only show the 4L or would it actually show the fuel level?
Thanks

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[jjs1234]

One other quick question, the speed + and the speed - , do those both get tied together in one port on the BEP or is it only the speed + ?

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[rbm]

So far the RPM's do I simply attach it to one of the leads on the coil packs?

The BEP doesn't route the Black/Blue wire (Pin 16) through to the output (it terminates the signal inside the BEP itself).  To use the RPM feature of your Acewell, you'll have to find a way to get the ignition pulses to the gauge.  It might mean that you need to locate the Black/Blue wire on the coil primary and connect a new wire.

Others who have used the Acewell found that they needed an R-C circuit to condition the signal on the Black/Blue wire prior to sending it to the gauge.  If that doesn't work for you, you could try the suggestion in the manual and wrap a few turns of a wire around the #1 cylinder spark plug wire and connect that to the gauge.

Also you had mentioned that the bep was adaptable for the fuel gauge? I was planning on plugging in the fuel wire into the fuel level part on the bep.

Does this suffice? Whould it simply only show the 4L or would it actually show the fuel level?
Thanks

Apparently it will only show the low fuel condition, and not the full range of fuel level that the float is capable of.  Try the modification I wrote up here, and connect the float directly to the gauge.

One other quick question, the speed + and the speed - , do those both get tied together in one port on the BEP or is it only the speed + ?

I hope I understand the question to mean that Speed (+/-) are the wires from the speed sensor in the final drive.  If I understood correctly, then Speed+ (Yellow) gets fed to the conditioning circuit inside the BEP; Speed- gets connected to ground inside the BEP.