Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build

[jjs1234]

I usually do Max. Way bigger in terms of volume. Sierra has gotten "bit**y" at me because I wanted to return parts that were not the ones I asked for...

I'll open it up after I polish the epoxy.

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[jjs1234]

Pictures of epoxy before polish and the side stand. Waiting for a r1100 centerstand. I may have it powder coated along with the fork tubes lower part. It'll probably delay their front wheel being put on for a week or so.

[jjs1234]

License plate lights... eBay cheap. Blueish color I don't know if they go with the look though. Well see

[jjs1234]

[Martin]

Use the old fashioned double sided razor blades, I believe they are referred to as safety blades. They are flexible and good for scrapping of the excess of epoxy. Be careful use a piece of folded business card to protect you from cuts from the exposed edge.
C.heers Martin.

[jjs1234]

Use the old fashioned double sided razor blades, I believe they are referred to as safety blades. They are flexible and good for scrapping of the excess of epoxy. Be careful use a piece of folded business card to protect you from cuts from the exposed edge.
C.heers Martin.

Tried using a razor but large peices peel off.


Done for the day. Finished the calipers...

[The Dude]

Tried using a razor but large peices peel off.


Done for the day. Finished the calipers...

I guess your talking about that mess you've smeared on your fork stansions?...Oh well, done now.
Epoxy works on keying into the substrate creating a mechanical bond.Polished chrome will not provide that.
The problem is the peel will pull out the pits too.So,abrasion is the way to go using a fine grade of wet n dry and hours of fun doing it.The fine scratches that Say 800grit will make is not too bad for the seal to work well.JO's fork gaiters ,street cred,idea will help,keep that situation out of sight and mind.
The twin pot Brembos look good.
Mounting the "ugly"rego plate on the side,is daft and dangerous,imho...best use it as a mud flap extension at the back and never clean it,or keep it in your jacket and when asked claim" it fell off",which is what we did in the bad Ol days and just threw it on the ground by the bike when we parked up at the pub.Those days are over,when a split second to decide wether to run or stop was all it took to "get away"or start grovelling. :oldguy:Yeah, we were proper rebels back then,alright.Just saying,you please yourself!

[jjs1234]

The epoxy doesn't seem to be working out that well. I'm using 1200 and your right... it does take forever...

I sanded off some pits and I can still feel them. Maybe they are partially filled???

[Martin]

Super glue or superglue gel might be worth a go, I've heard it can work. The problem is getting a clean surface for it to adhere to, you could try a brass wire brush followed by wax and grease remover. There is also a type of solder called Chronobraze which can be used to repair hydraulic rams, a mate used it quite a few years ago with success. I believe there is a you tube post on it.
Regards Martin.

[The Dude]

I guess you don't want to use the fork gaiters?What I saw from your pics was not too bad so a carefull removal of any sharps and you may find that's enough to get the stansions serviceable ...Like I said,way back in this thread,It's not actually a biggie,if you have gaiters.Your pits looked prety small?
All the best,anyway.

[jjs1234]

I bought gaitors. I just thought that the fluid would get caught in the pits

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[jjs1234]

I heard that all the fuel injectors fire at the same time regardless if the Piston is ready for the fuel or not...

Was there ever a model of the K bike that each injector fired on its own?

[The Dude]

I bought gaitors. I just thought that the fluid would get caught in the pits

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Small pits,not much fluid.Most of the fluid is down the bottom and it rises up to lubricate the bushings.get rid of any sharp edges,fill any big pits and forget about it?A bit of oil above the seal is not actually too bad.Moisture will also accumulate there too.

I heard that all the fuel injectors fire at the same time regardless if the Piston is ready for the fuel or not...

Was there ever a model of the K bike that each injector fired on its own?

It would be stupid firing all cylinder fuel injectors at the same time.The Boffin would be taken round the back and shot for being a sabateur spy suggesting this idea.:idea2: However,your four cylinder sparks come in pairs.
I suspect your voice activated texting needs reprimanding...don't shoot the Boffin.Two coils and four plugs?One wasted spark each.

[Martin]

I run really thick silicon grease ( fluidbloc damper grease ) under the fork seal dust caps. The theory being any crud will get caught up in the grease and not work it's way under the seal lip. I clean it out every 3-4 years and replace the grease,this has worked for the last 16 years. I use the same grease behind my rear master cylinder boot and around front master cylinder piston.
Regards Martin.

[The Dude]

Nice idea.

[jjs1234]

I got some pretty thick bearing grease. I'll have to give it a try

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[jjs1234]

Another question...

The front brake lines on a k1100. For the standard config (NON-ABS... so not std config) from the Master-brake to the 1-2 splitter in the front fender and then down to the calipers:

Does anyone know the lengths?

- From Master BC to the Splitter

- Splitter to both the calipers


Looking to buy this along with adapters for it.

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/goodridge-shadow-stainless-steel-universal-brake-line.html

[rbm]

2 pieces of stainless steel braided line for the splitter -> calipers.
  - one end has a straight male connector, metric 10mm x 1.0, convex head.  This will fit into the splitter on the fork brace.
  - other end has a 45 degree banjo connector to accept a metric 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolt.  This will attach to the brake calliper.
  -  Total length of the line is 38cm (15 inches)  from the end of the straight male to the centre of the banjo fitting

1 piece of stainless steel braided line for the master cylinder -> splitter.
  - both ends have 45 degree banjo connectors to accept a metric 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolt.
  -  Total length of the line is 100cm (39 inches)  from centre to centre of the banjo fittings

With experience, I found the MC -> splitter line may be a bit shorter (90cm) and probably better with a straight banjo at the MC end.  It would probably make a cleaner route.

[jjs1234]

 you know what? They do seem a lot smoother

[The Dude]

you know what? They do seem a lot smoother

Sweet!
Gaiters,grease,forget about it.

[jjs1234]

Anyone have a manual on how to open the fork stanchions up?

[jjs1234]

Nevermind my last post I ended up finding a manual. Here are some pictures. I am unsure how far you guys think I should disassemble? A little bit of corrosion can be seen, but I got rid of it. Probably some moisture got inside.

[Martin]

Make sure the grease you use is compatible with seals, dust caps and boots. That is why I use silicon grease, some types of grease will apparently degrade rubber. You could also use rubber grease.
Regards Martin.

[jjs1234]

Sounds good. So I'm going to guess the shocks look fine since nobody's telling me to disassemble it further...

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[The Dude]

Sounds good. So I'm going to guess the shocks look fine since nobody's telling me to disassemble it further...

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Hard to tell from your images.I havn't seen mine for quite a while.
So,no cracks or springs shattered?Reassemble and test (ride).Should be low risk but no jumps or stunts like wheelies or breaking the open road speed limit. :hehehe