Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180360 times)

The Dude · « **Reply #175 on:** June 28, 2016, 11:22:47 PM »

Just the smallest amount,on the cylinder wall only,not the shoulder.No need for the smoothing out,just sit the new bearing in the housing,up against the shoulder and let it set.Then keep an eye on any deterioration in the fit.Likely to work fine.
I have used similar for stearing head bearing after crash(someone else's) ovalised the bearing housing.I did make up a Dolly on a lathe sitting in the other bearing housing too and peened the thing back into shape as well.
I'm surprised you could not find Loctite.look it up and make sure your litigious society hasn't banned it...
Out back, here, we can fix anything with #8 fencing wire but we also have a high degree of self responsibility to go with this....

jjs1234 · « **Reply #176 on:** June 28, 2016, 11:32:30 PM »

I've got blue and red... in my mind it doesn't compare... you think it's good enough? Red?

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The Dude · « **Reply #177 on:** June 28, 2016, 11:51:36 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on June 28, 2016, 11:32:30 PM

I've got blue and red... in my mind it doesn't compare... you think it's good enough? Red?

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Probably not.How sloppy is that loose bearing?All subjective stuff.
Better to use the Steel Weld....Even better to get the bore sleeved by a reputable engineering workshop,obviously.
All the best.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #178 on:** June 29, 2016, 01:29:57 AM »

Sleeved you say? I feel like a sleeve made out of one or two layers of aluminum foil would work

Thats how tight it is.

Anyway I put a little bit of that epoxy in there and seated the bearing. Looks like it seated towards the end.

Another issue cropped up...

I seated the other bearing. Its snug and when you pound it in (thats what she said) the noise changes... good. ~~Only thing is now the~~ Snap ring doesnt fit... The groove is exposed just not enough...

What gives???

Figured it out.

Unlikely that this advice would become a sticky but in anycase if you have a k1100LT Front Rim 2.5x18 these are the procedures you should follow...

On first note if you but a new spacer (named "PIPE" on the parts fiche) it can ONLY be installed one-way. Meaning it will only go in on one side of the rim.

1.) Install your PIPE. This should be installed on the RIGHT side (Facing if you were seated on the bike).
Check to see if the PIPE goes in this way (as the other way has a ledge preventing its entry).

2.) Install your ANGULAR BALL BEARING 36 31 2 311 030/31 (this is the thicker ball bearing) (Unsure as to why its an Angular type. The k1100RS does not have this ball-bearing) ON THE RIGHT SIDE (Same side you installed the PIPE- SPACER)

3.) Hit the ANGULAR BALL BEARING Past the point of the Snap-Ring (So you can install the snap-ring)
4.) Install the SNAP-RING
5.) Install the Left Side GROOVED Ball-Bearing 36 31 1 450 967
NOTE: When installing the GROOVED Ball-Bearing, it will hit the PIPE and thus hit the ANGULAR Ball-Bearing and push it against the Snap-Ring(Once it hits this it will not go any further).
6.) You should be complete.

The point of this is to have the Grooved be snug against the PIPE, which is in-turn snug against the ANGULAR ball-bearing. This can only be facilitated if the SNAP-RING is in place.

I thing the SNAP-RING serves no other purpose than this.

Let me know if this works for you.

Also INSERT the AXLE to make sure everything is lined up correctly. It should not have any resistance moving in and out of the RIM.

Thanks.

What a learning lesson.

And if you get your rims powder-coated, make it clear not to sand-blast or powder-coat where the bearings lie.

The Dude · « **Reply #179 on:** June 29, 2016, 03:46:27 AM »

Correct!
It's not rocket science...take your time.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #180 on:** June 29, 2016, 04:13:58 AM »

Not great lighting but:

Expecting some parts tomorrow.

Laitch · « **Reply #181 on:** June 29, 2016, 10:08:39 AM »

Exciting stuff, jjs! Thanks for the updates.

Laitch · « **Reply #182 on:** June 29, 2016, 11:13:05 AM »

Quote from: The Dude on June 29, 2016, 03:46:27 AM

It's not rocket science. . .

Agreed, Dude. It's more like Darwinism.

The Dude · « **Reply #183 on:** June 29, 2016, 03:44:39 PM »

Looking good!

Quote from: Laitch on June 29, 2016, 11:13:05 AM

It's more like Darwinism.

Eventually, postponed by bouts of serendipity.

Laitch · « **Reply #184 on:** June 29, 2016, 05:36:15 PM »

Quote from: The Dude on June 29, 2016, 03:44:39 PM

. . . postponed by bouts of serendipity.

If serendipity and high speed wheel rotation are a good fit, it should all work out.

The Dude · « **Reply #185 on:** June 29, 2016, 11:20:49 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on June 29, 2016, 05:36:15 PM

Serendipity and high speed wheel rotation are a good fit, it should all work out.

Yes, that's reassuring,because the coriolis of that is...with a bad fit, it should all work in....~~Hemisphere dependant.Er,it was the left front wheel bearing,wasn't it?~~
~~Don't cross the equator!~~ Cross with care.
I continually find there's always more to it than meets the eye....but there's always a rational explanation!

jjs1234 · « **Reply #186 on:** June 30, 2016, 03:33:31 AM »

Alright enough with the philosophy class :)

What do you guys think about this? That spacer is installed... wondering if I should keep it?

The Dude · « **Reply #187 on:** June 30, 2016, 05:16:32 AM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on June 30, 2016, 03:33:31 AM

Alright enough with the philosophy class :)
What do you guys think about this? That spacer is installed... wondering if I should keep it?

Second image answers the spacer keeping question....(yes)

The obvious wheel to frame seat rail offset is apparently approaching normal for this design(other threads tell of this)but one thing to look for(to gauge this) is how the shock absorber compresses.ie reasonably straight(through the suspension arc)or is the shock forced to bend as it compresses?Is the bottom mount directly under the top mount,in the vertical fore/aft plane?The shock will not last long,otherwise andso indicate if something is actually wrong with this assembly.
This will help you asses if the frame to motor has been assembled correctly,shims,bent frame,~~funky colour choice,~~ etc.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #188 on:** June 30, 2016, 11:22:25 AM »

Quote from: The Dude on June 30, 2016, 05:16:32 AM

Second image answers the spacer keeping question....(yes)

The obvious wheel to frame seat rail offset is apparently approaching normal for this design(other threads tell of this)but one thing to look for(to gauge this) is how the shock absorber compresses.ie reasonably straight(through the suspension arc)or is the shock forced to bend as it compresses?Is the bottom mount directly under the top mount,in the vertical fore/aft plane?The shock will not last long,otherwise andso indicate if something is actually wrong with this assembly.
This will help you asses if the frame to motor has been assembled correctly,shims,bent frame,~~funky colour choice,~~ etc.

Thanks The Dude.

I believe everything is strait/aligned. I will double-check later though.

The way the wheel is (how its off to the left a bit) looks like it could counteract the weight of the left (if sitting on the bike) side of the engine...? What I mean by this is the engine is larger (protrudes) on the left side (valve cover side). The Frame mounts to the engine not in the center, but slightly off to the right.

If you understand what I mean, would it be plausible that the way the tire is situated will have no noticeable effect on steering/handling?

Laitch · « **Reply #189 on:** June 30, 2016, 02:03:18 PM »

What measurement did you get between the tire and the swing arm, jjs?

jjs1234 · « **Reply #190 on:** June 30, 2016, 02:38:36 PM »

My guess is 10-15mm. However I am unsure, since I didn't measure it. It was wider than 1 spacer though.

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The Dude · « **Reply #191 on:** June 30, 2016, 04:26:50 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on June 30, 2016, 02:38:36 PM

My guess is 10-15mm. However I am unsure, since I didn't measure it. It was wider than 1 spacer though.

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That's plenty.My impression from your image was next to nothing,hence the leave the spacer in comment.Good.
The rear wheel offset(common observation) displaced to the left 5mm or so won't be noticeable when riding.It is designed in by the boffins(I hope).
Happy days!

jjs1234 · « **Reply #192 on:** July 01, 2016, 10:26:39 PM »

Replacing seals in forks... some rust...

jjs1234 · « **Reply #193 on:** July 01, 2016, 10:53:31 PM »

Got to get a measuring cup to see how much drained...

Kinda wondering how to fill it up... (the cap on the top or bottom)...

Also going to fix the damage to the chromed sanchions with epoxy. Dries clear and supposedly resists petroleum.

Laitch · « **Reply #194 on:** July 01, 2016, 11:56:54 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on July 01, 2016, 10:53:31 PM

Got to get a measuring cup to see how much drained...

Knowing how much drained is not going to help if there wasn't enough in there to begin with, or too much. Fill it from the top. Fill it according to spec.

You'll still need a measuring cup. If there's a culinary school nearby, see if they'll loan you one and give you a warm croissant to go.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #195 on:** July 02, 2016, 02:07:58 AM »

Okay will do. I know where to find the amount. I am just changing the seals so not a full empty.

I'm also guessing the rust isn't anything worth mentioning.

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The Dude · « **Reply #196 on:** July 02, 2016, 02:17:54 AM »

I use a large vet syringe from the top.

Laitch · « **Reply #197 on:** July 02, 2016, 08:24:51 AM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on July 02, 2016, 02:07:58 AM

I am just changing the seals so not a full empty.

If this is a used fork, jjs, why aren't you doing a thorough disassembly, inspection and cleaning of it like you've done on much of the rest of your bike? Did I miss that chapter in this saga? At speed, I want zero surprises from the fork.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #198 on:** July 02, 2016, 03:00:34 PM »

I can, I'm just thinking of what stuff I will need to replace (gaskets ) when I open her up.

I'm just a little ancy, it takes FOREVER to get parts from BMW.

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Laitch · « **Reply #199 on:** July 02, 2016, 05:51:40 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on July 02, 2016, 03:00:34 PM

I can, I'm just thinking of what stuff I will need to replace (gaskets ) when I open her up.
I'm just a little ancy, it takes FOREVER to get parts from BMW.

You may need a bushing or two, but mainly you want to thoroughly clean out the accumulated soup composed of pulverized metal and degraded oil. Where are you buying your parts? Sierra?

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Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180360 times)