Author Topic: Transmission removal  (Read 8067 times)

Offline Ar1100s

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 31
Transmission removal
« on: February 25, 2016, 10:39:18 AM »
Could someone redirect me to the video or info steps I need for transmission removal so I can lube the spline on my 1985 k100?
Thanks
  • Winnetka ca.
  • R1100S

Offline Laitch

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Re: Transmission removal
« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2016, 11:08:00 AM »
Google: chris harris spline
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline rbm

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  • Regards, Robert
Toronto, Ontario

1987 K75 - Build Blog @http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/

Offline Ar1100s

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Re: Transmission removal
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2016, 01:56:07 PM »
Thanks!
  • Winnetka ca.
  • R1100S

Offline WayneDW

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  • Posts: 638
Re: Transmission removal
« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2016, 08:27:54 PM »
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/splinelube/splinelube.htm
Thanks for that link.  For some reason my bookmarks to Duck's articles went nowhere.  Glad to see they are still available.
  • Minneapolis, MN, USA
  • 1992 K75RT

Offline Ar1100s

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Re: Transmission removal
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2016, 08:33:53 PM »
Updating Options!
  • Winnetka ca.
  • R1100S

Offline Laitch

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Re: Transmission removal
« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2016, 01:08:24 AM »
Two things I wanted to add. When I removed the final drive I was left with the drive shaft still connected to the transmission. Mr Harris in his video does not say that you need to pry it from the spring clip to remove it.
The driveshaft doesn't need to be pried from its clip. If the swingarm is removed, grasp the driveshaft firmly, jerk it rearward and it will be released. If the swing arm is still installed, a vicegrip clamped on the protruding portion of the driveshaft and then smacked rearward with a mallet will also release it.

Second on the list is how I made my guides which are necessary to keep from bending the clutch rod.
The bolts needed to secure the transmission are 8mm 1.25. I purchased two 4" 5/16's bolts then cut off the heads. You can partially thread these bolts in the transmission mounting holes but be careful as they are standard threads. Just enough so they will stay put when you remove the transmission.
I don't recommend this procedure because it relies too much on luck. If guide pins are made for removal of the transmission, their threads should be of the same diameter and pitch as the threads in the engine so they can be threaded securely—not "partially"—into it. Coupling these parts with threads that don't match could lead to cross-threading and then to extra time and cost to repair damaged threads in the engine. Correctly-sized bolts are not costly. If they're not available locally, send away for them.

Clamping threaded portions of a bolt in the hard jaws of a vice could damaged them then they could damage whatever threads are receiving them.
 
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: Transmission removal
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2016, 09:54:58 AM »
+1 on the bolts.  While Home Depot and Lowes don't have them yet, most good hardware stores will have the metric bolts you need to support the transmission.  You will find them in those flat boxes that slide out like drawers.  They will set you back about $1.80 each if I recall.  Cheap insurance for your engine cases.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline Ar1100s

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Re: Transmission removal
« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2016, 01:42:39 PM »
Great ideas, thanks!
  • Winnetka ca.
  • R1100S

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