Plug housing replacement on ignition coil and behind headlight

[restinthesun]

Greetings!  :euro

Just because it was zero degrees here in Vermont today doesn't mean spring won't be around the corner soon.  :2thumbup:

While doing the latter half of annual maintenance on a new/old 1988 K75S today and found a few electrical issues that might be above my pay grade, but thought I'd consult you helpful cusses first. 

It looks like the third ignition coil doesn't have a plug housing—it's just loose wires hanging off the plug...The others have a housing. Would that hinder any functionality or is it more aesthetics? Worth fixing? Difficult? Ordered a housing and sure I can figure it out, but wondering if might relate to other spark plug issue...

After that discovery, I decided to get the fairing off and looking at the headlight. There I noticed the plug housing behind the main bulb had one of the three plastic insertions fried (not sure if right term...). It was just the metal on that one side. The plastic seemed to have burned away. The other plastic is fine. Indication of an what? When I plugged it back in, everything worked, but the high beam wouldn't stay on. It would only come on when I pushed the light down (the flasher). Any idea how to fix that?

Is it possible to buy just a plug housing for behind the headlight? Or do I need a re-wiring of some stripe? Looked everywhere for it and couldn't find part #. Would like a stronger bulb in there anyway (currently have standard 60 watt) so maybe this is motivation to get a relay in there...

[Scott_]

You can find replacement H4 lamp connector pigtails at your local auto parts store.
Not uncommon to find that lamp connector burned. More often than not the female half of the electrical connector looses tension and causes higher resistance/lower voltage and increased heat. Thus burning the plastic.

No doubt, get yourself(or make yourself) a relay kit, you will be much happier.
Eastern Beaver relay kits are very user friendly to install.

Sounds like your hi/low/flash switch may be dirty. You could try some spray contact cleaner without dis-assembly and see if that improves anything, otherwise you will need to dis-assemble the switch assy. That can be a challenge, not impossible, but very easy to loose parts.(small spring loaded contacts)

[restinthesun]

Hey thanks! That's some great info. I'll head down to the autoparts store for a nosey and think about getting the H4 kit.

Any idea about the ignition coil plug wire issue?

[K1300S]

that connector can also melt if a higher wattage h4 bulb than stock is used.  just get the easternbeaver relay kit.  it has new connectors in it, reduces the juice going through your headlight switch and your headlight will be brighter.

[restinthesun]

I think that sounds like a plan. Thanks!

[Scott_]

RE the H4 connectors, pay very close attention when installing them to the lamp. I ooopppsd on one install and got the lamp male prong off to the back side of the female connector(not inside the connector), creating a bad connection. Needless to say the plastic melted--again....  :mbird

[Martin]

Don't bother getting a plastic H4 socket, you are better getting a ceramic one, they can handle higher wattage globes with out melting. You should be able to  get one at a good electronic store or automotive outlet.
Regards Martin.

[kris]

Why not run your brick in the dark and see if there is any arching off that spark lead. If not I wouldn't worry about it. All the old engines I know of didn't have boots ....think old Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engines and some of the old motorcycle engines.

If I'm wrong I think we'll hear about it shortly!