No start no dash lights except the green backlight...

[jjs1234]

So I'm looking for a little advice on troubleshooting.

I replaced all my fuel lines coolant spark plugs and oil. I was doing some other things too like repairing the gas tank, fuel pump, and oil/water pump.

Disconnected the battery.


Later on charged the battery, connected it and... Nothing.

A noticeable relay click is heard when it is set to the on/start position. And the green backlights on the dash light up but nothing else. No check engine, gear, or anything for that matter. Did I mention it doesn't start either?

Blinkers work
Horn works
Brake light doesn't get brighter (it lights up but doesn't get brighter when the brakes are used).
Fuel pump doesn't buzz or do anything.

I am stumped.

Please help :)

[Martin]

 Have you accidently hit the kill switch try turning on and off a few times.
Regards Martin.

[rbm]

Might be a dodgy ignition switch.  Can you jog the key to see if the lights return (after checking the Kill switch as Martin suggests).  The next possible problem could be a starting motor that needs cleaning.  Test this theory by putting the bike in 5th gear and trying to rotate the rear wheel backwards and forwards a couple times.  If the lights reappear, the starter needs servicing.

[jjs1234]

I can get the bike in 5th gear without having it on?

I did clean the kill/start switch on the right handlebar before I put it together. Though I never touched the key ignition switch.

Could this also be a relay?

[Martin]

Did you pull the kill switch apart to clean it, how did you clean it.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

Brake light doesn't get brighter (it lights up but doesn't get brighter when the brakes are used).

The brake light isn't supposed to "get brighter." It lights when either or both brakes are applied and is off when they aren't applied. What you may be seeing is the lit tail light bulb and the brake light bulb not working.

+1 on the starter check first then the ignition switch cleaning.

I can get the bike in 5th gear without having it on?

You should be able to run through the gears without the ignition switch "on" or the bike running. Sometimes it takes double clutching but you'll get there.

Could this also be a relay?

It could be several things. Finish these checks first.

[jjs1234]

I will try that when I get home later.

Here are some pictures for any clarification that may be needed. I took them last night.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B3obtViHR9BeN2txeEU3SkRpSms/edit

[rbm]

Put the bike on the centre stand to get the back wheel off the ground.  With one hand, upshift the gearbox, with the other rotate the rear wheel.  This will shift the transmission through the gears until you get to 5th.  Once there, rotate the rear tire in one direction and then the other several times.  This action causes the starter motor to revolve, putting the brushes on a different part of the commutator. 

[jjs1234]

I did the 5th gear test and nothing.


Just to clarify, when the key is turned all the way 90 degrees in the run spot... The red caution/warning light does not illuminate. Nor does the fuel pump buzz.

[Laitch]

I did the 5th gear test and nothing.

How many times did you do it? On one occasion, jo had to do that 12 times before he could get going.

The temperature light does not get lit. The bulb monitor and alternator light do get lit.  Your photos and inability to start indicate a problem. Onward to the ignition switch.

While you're at it, be sure your battery connections are tight.

[jjs1234]

To be fair, I came home and did it some more on an incline in my driveway I rolled it back a couple times and forwards.

I'm now on to the ignition switch.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BebUdpZE5wYnpwYU0/view?usp=docslist_api

Red: hot regardless if the key is inserted or not.

accessory mode, one click to the right: the solid Grey gets power.

In the RUN mode, 2 clicks to the right: solid gray, gray with blue stripe, and green all get power.

Battery is approximately 11.5 volts

[Bill]

That battery voltage is a problem.  Unloaded it should be at least 12.8 Volts.  Charge the battery properly.  If it won't hold a charge voltage of 12.8 to 13.2 volts one cell is toast.

[Laitch]

While you're charging your battery, there's a wiring connector under your tank. On your bike, it may be on the left side. Disconnect it and make sure its contacts are clean. Reconnect it firmly.

[jjs1234]

Two things:

First: my bike was an RT model. While disconnecting the fairing, I cut some wires relating to the radio. I double checked that and accounted for all the wires. As you can see in this picture this was the connector that connected to a 15 amp Circuit.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeWFB0QWFmLVR4Smc/view?usp=docslist_api

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BebjNoLVdydENzeWM/view?usp=docslist_api

Second: when you say connectors under the tank on the left, there seems to be one that is green with black stripe, Brown and what looks to be a light grey with a black stripe. Its disconnected but it also looks as if it was purposely disconnected?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeWmMydXpVZHVyRms/view?usp=docslist_api

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3obtViHR9BeMkZRZ0plVDV3Skk/view?usp=docslist_api2:

[K1300S]

That battery voltage is a problem.  Unloaded it should be at least 12.8 Volts.  Charge the battery properly.  If it won't hold a charge voltage of 12.8 to 13.2 volts one cell is toast.

What bill said.   You need a good,  fully charged battery to start with.

[rbm]

Second: when you say connectors under the tank on the left, there seems to be one that is green with black stripe, Brown and what looks to be a light grey with a black stripe. Its disconnected but it also looks as if it was purposely disconnected?

That's the connector for additional instruments.  It supplies switched power, ground and illumination for optional oil and water temp gauges.  If you haven't got that option, that connector remains disconnected.

[jjs1234]

I put the battery on the charger. Before I did however I jumper cables it to my car battery and I still get nothing.  :falldown:

I'm trying to figure out where I can trace from...

[Laitch]

Second: when you say connectors under the tank on the left, there seems to be one that is green with black stripe, Brown and what looks to be a light grey with a black stripe. Its disconnected but it also looks as if it was purposely disconnected?

That's the connector for additional instruments.  It supplies switched power, ground and illumination for optional oil and water temp gauges.  If you haven't got that option, that connector remains disconnected.

Well then, jj, look on the right side beneath the tank. That's were mine is on my K75. It's Motobrick.com's #3 reason for "No Start".
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7480.0.html

[jjs1234]

Might be a dodgy ignition switch.  Can you jog the key to see if the lights return (after checking the Kill switch as Martin suggests).  The next possible problem could be a starting motor that needs cleaning.  Test this theory by putting the bike in 5th gear and trying to rotate the rear wheel backwards and forwards a couple times.  If the lights reappear, the starter needs servicing.

Thanks everyone!!!

I fixed the issue.

It was a crappy start switch. The switch that is on the right handlebar. I previously wrote it off because I rebuilt and cleaned it. That's why I figured it wasn't it. The other thing is the dealer, when the started it used a different method. So I was pretty confused.

However the advice given, cleaning the contacts, having a full battery, and rolling the bike backwards.

The other thing I wanted to mention is that oarticular switch has two small springs. Don't
Lose them. Although they were inside the connector I guess was not correctly aligned.


At the very least, thanks to everyone for their input. I kept me from giving up and going to the dealer.

My project is To do 90-99% by myself. I almost gave up.

Thanks :)

[jjs1234]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3obtViHR9BebUtrSDFmamduclk

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3obtViHR9BeSS11aUJNVXVwTW8

[Laitch]

Thanks for the update, jj. :clap:

[Martin]

JJs that was the second question I asked how did you clean it? A lot of the problems can be something you have previously done. You need to back track. Good job any way at least you found it .
Regards Martin

[tsnap]

The Human always wins in the end.  I am a Human.  I can fix it. I can win.

tom

[jjs1234]

Random last question...

Bought a automatic speed/float charger. Connected my battery...

Left home, came back to find some fluid had spewed from it. Normal???

It's a battery that you have to fill. Also it holds a charge just fine. Sitting at 12.3v

 It had been sitting for around five years if I remember correctly.

 The  electrolyte level seems to be slightly above the upper Mark. However before charging I believe it was in the middle.  After disconnecting it because it was not on the float mode yet I turned the battery slightly on the side and you could see bubbles coming up like champagne.


Good/bad?  It's a bike master 53030

[The Mighty Gryphon]

12.3 volts is not a fully charged good battery.  It is about a 50% charge.  If you have been charging it for anything more than an hour or so it is a sign that the battery is deceased.. 

Additionally, a good battery normally doesn't puke out it's fluid when being charged.

I strongly suggest that you replace it before doing any more troubleshooting.