Oil Leaks, maybe I'll fix one

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Nice job.

Be sure to shoot some cleaner onto the end of the balance shaft inside that rear main seal.  Also get the face of the hub on the clutch basket.   I don't think you want any oil on those faces where they meet.

[enialb2]

I'm embarrassed to say that the various drifts I used are even more outside the box since I am using a friend's new garage without many good random odds and ends to match such a wide seal made tucked inside a bellhousing. I'll send a few photos for your amusement when I get back in the garage next, but here is a list of various tools used as drifts: old rear main seal, full roll of electrical tape, empty aerosol can, hammer (as a wooden drift, not as a hammer). Sometimes the desperation of getting a job done gets in the way of taking a breath and coming back tomorrow with a better tool. Glad I didn't muck up the seal.

Gryph, thanks for the reminder. I had already forgotten, but I must have read your recommendation elsewhere. What is the idea there? Keep that shaft and threading clean and dry . . . clutch nut, o ring . . . clanky sound?
Ah, here it is: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7952.msg58211.html#msg58211

[enialb2]

My embarrassing array of drifts. The can on the left played a big part, as well as the wooden hammer handle and roll of electrical tape.





My torque wrench only goes to 960 inch pounds of the required 1200+ for the clutch nut, so I "estimated" the additional torque. I reused the nut as well, so hopefully I don't happen to open this again. Now I know I need another torque wrench for more torques.

With some invaluable help, I got the clutch back on and centered it with my newly made timtyler style centering tool.



Plus the gearbox is now back on and buttoned up, splines lubed, Chris Harris's words in my head whenever spline lube or anti seize is required.



Sadly, I now have to go out of town for work for a week. I guess I can obsess over this from afar.

[Laitch]

Thanks for the photos—bold disclosure! Congrats on reassembly.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Gryph, thanks for the reminder. I had already forgotten, but I must have read your recommendation elsewhere. What is the idea there? Keep that shaft and threading clean and dry . . . clutch nut, o ring . . . clanky sound?
Ah, here it is: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7952.msg58211.html#msg58211

I suspect that oil on the face of the clutch hub and it's mate on the end of the balance shaft allows the balance shaft to move.  At low engine rpm's this results in an annoying clank at low engine speeds just above idle.  Cleaning the oil from these faces will help increase the coefficient of friction and prevent the clank.

The clank doesn't cause any damage that I could see, it just sounds bad.  On the other hand, it may be an indication that the clutch nut has loosened slightly and no longer has the required torque on it.  When I disassembled my clutch that nut came loose a lot easier than I thought it should have. 

[enialb2]

Ah, interesting. Well I'll keep an ear out for the clank since I had to fudge the torque on that clutch nut.

[enialb2]

Doing some cleaning before the drive shaft and everything starts going back on. Looks like the drive shaft output splines are mountaining, but I'm hoping I've got tens of thousands of miles before that's an issue?




The final drive splines look good to me, not that I have much experience with any of this.

[Laitch]

That shape of the shaft spline is what I know as "sawtooth." When the top of the teeth get thin enough, they'll break off, recess will be over and you'll be coasting not particularly quietly to a stop, but that's not happening soon. You already know it'll be a problem eventually and you know you'll be able to replace it in a few hours. Save up and shop for a spare in good condition. You've got lots of miles left depending on how hard you flog the beast. Enjoy them.