Some random questions about a rebuild

[jjs1234]

Hello all. Been having some trouble locating answers to some questions I have regarding rebuilding my K.

1985 k100


What I was planning to do:

- Lube all splines
- Replace O-Ring/Seal on output shaft
- Possibly replace the clutch friction plate
- Paint and clean the whole bike
- New tires
- Replacing bearings
- Clutch push-rod
- re-grease swing-arm bearings
- clutch nut o-ring


As far as my questions go Ill just list them off:

1.) I have heard the mention of "Viton" seals twice now and I wanted to know where to buy these. Also this is the Outer-Seal and not the O-ring right? I had also heard mention that with these particular seals it was not necessary to keep the seal 5 mm exposed (5 mm is correct?)?

2.) In regarding to taking the gearbox off and clutch plates etc. I wanted to know if any "special tools" were involved? I already have a breaker bar, 30mm socket... Also I was planning on getting a motorcycle lift and a jack that lifts motorcycles too.

3.) If I am doing a complete tear down, is their anything else that I should be doing looking to replace that I have not already mentioned?

4.) I wanted to have the rear tire be fatter but it seems after researching the wider tires are the 3 spoke kind. Is the k1100 front end forks a direct bolt on?


I think thats it for now. Still searching.

Thanks for being patient with my newbie questions! 


Edit: I was able to find the viton rings here:

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=368_65_169&products_id=19200
and
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJPKPSA/ref=asc_df_B00NJPKPSA4106542?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=shopzilla0d-20&ascsubtag=shopzilla_rev_285-20;14550379369400437929310080302008005&linkCode=df0&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B00NJPKPSA

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Looks like a good list. I assume you are doing or have done all the fluids(brakes, forks, radiator, transmission, and final drive)  If it were me, I would do the Spaal fan upgrade with a manual switch.  Cost is about $65 and takes about an hour to do once everything is apart.   Also, while the bike is apart I would add LED running lights.  There are good ones out there for as little as $30 a pair. 

You want to get a couple of the longest 8mm bolts you can find, cut their heads off and use them to act as slides to support and guide the transmission back onto the output shaft.  Do you have torque wrenches?  Harbor Freight has good ones that are about $13 when on sale(which is most of the time).  They also have nice 3/8" drive Allen wrenches. 

Last, get a can of COPPER anti-seize and hit the threads of everything you can get to.  Makes working on the bike down the road a lot easier.   DeOxIt on all the electrical connections makes the electrical system almost totally bulletproof.

[F14CRAZY]

Be sure to mark the clutch parts when taking them apart to make sure they're oriented the same way when you re-assemble

[jjs1234]

Looks like a good list. I assume you are doing or have done all the fluids(brakes, forks, radiator, transmission, and final drive)  If it were me, I would do the Spaal fan upgrade with a manual switch.  Cost is about $65 and takes about an hour to do once everything is apart.   Also, while the bike is apart I would add LED running lights.  There are good ones out there for as little as $30 a pair. 

You want to get a couple of the longest 8mm bolts you can find, cut their heads off and use them to act as slides to support and guide the transmission back onto the output shaft.  Do you have torque wrenches?  Harbor Freight has good ones that are about $13 when on sale(which is most of the time).  They also have nice 3/8" drive Allen wrenches. 

Last, get a can of COPPER anti-seize and hit the threads of everything you can get to.  Makes working on the bike down the road a lot easier.   DeOxIt on all the electrical connections makes the electrical system almost totally bulletproof.

Thanks!

The 8mm bolt idea is brilliant. I hadnt thought of that. :)

I do already own a torque wrench. It works in in-lbs though.


I was wondering (I am still looking for it) but whats the part number for the output shaft Main Seal? 11 11 7 666 186 ??

Owner of a paperback Clymers manual.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Torque values for the bricks in foot-pounds, courtesy of the Mighty Duck.  Download and print a copy for your toolbox.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,486.msg1067.html#msg1067

[F14CRAZY]

Torque values for the bricks in foot-pounds, courtesy of the Mighty Duck.  Download and print a copy for your toolbox.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,486.msg1067.html#msg1067

johnny was gonna update that...the torque for the oil switch is way too high

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Yeah, those puppies are fragile.  I've seen a few people post that they twisted the heads off of them.

[F14CRAZY]

You want to get a couple of the longest 8mm bolts you can find, cut their heads off and use them to act as slides to support and guide the transmission back onto the output shaft. 

I understand the idea of sliding the trans away from the engine on bolts but I just grab it and carry it and set it to the side. Is sliding down because of the weight of the trans? I think it's easier to clean the hub of the clutch with the trans out of the way

[jjs1234]

How much GD 525 should I buy for all the splines?

2 or 4 oz?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

If you just use it for splines, 2 oz.  should last a couple years.

[jjs1234]

I forgot to ask. This GD 525, is it prone to the "lube creep" that ends up taking the lube and creeping up the driveshaft? (if you do this on the final drive)

Also, will you need to add this lube (with this high quality stuff) every time you change the tires?


Ive been making a list to purchase some things. I dont want to miss anything.


I am planning to also replace the input seal on the gearbox/trans.

[kris]

I think the common wisdom on the spline lubes is 15,000 to 20,000 miles. Every tire change, assuming 5-8,000 miles, would probably be excessive. But if you're so inclined then go for it.

The lube is known to creep. I guess if it didn't we wouldn't have to lube so often. Bruno, the guru of driveshaft/ final drive rebuilds, welds a plug into the new shaft to prevent creep. It's really not a complicated job. The right tools, a little know-how and the right attitude and you're good.  Don't think you should have to replace the clutch pushrod, unless you bend it. That's where those nice long 8 mil bolts come in. F14, they just add a degree of safety to the tranny removal. Why risk it? The bolts are cheap.

[jjs1234]

I think the common wisdom on the spline lubes is 15,000 to 20,000 miles. Every tire change, assuming 5-8,000 miles, would probably be excessive. But if you're so inclined then go for it.

The lube is known to creep. I guess if it didn't we wouldn't have to lube so often. Bruno, the guru of driveshaft/ final drive rebuilds, welds a plug into the new shaft to prevent creep. It's really not a complicated job. The right tools, a little know-how and the right attitude and you're good.  Don't think you should have to replace the clutch pushrod, unless you bend it. That's where those nice long 8 mil bolts come in. F14, they just add a degree of safety to the tranny removal. Why risk it? The bolts are cheap.

Thanks Kris for your wisdom  :yes

I was thinking the slide bolts/pins lets call them would help with lining up the spines... but apparently that is something different altogether- something you can do with a magic marker (or different items other members have used).

[rbm]

If you need other suggestions for the front end, you can choose a Ninja ZX7R front end on K100 stock headset.  Requires different 52mm bearings, but stem length is right on.  Uses Standard 20mm axle just like K100, only needs wheel spacers.  Uses 52/34mm roller bearings.  You'd need to turn stem down only few 1/10 mm to size it for the bearing (Press out steering stem, turn on lathe, reinstall in lower triple).  You'd be advised to pin the stem to the lower triple for security.  If you want cool factor, can also use aftermarket triple with adjustable offset to customize the trail as you adjust the stanchions in the triple tree. Standard Nisin brakes fit 320mm disks on K100 wheels.  You'd have to adjust caliper offsets to be sure they are centred over the rotors.