"Repairing" Centre Stand on early K100

[Vespa no more]

Brain explosion:

After 8 years off the road in my father-in law's garage, I bought the K100RT 1984 (107K KM) and proceeded to get working on it (replacing all fluids). Despite laying on the floor beside it, sitting on it etc, the stand only collapsed when we wheeled it outside. One leg basically tore off.

Anyway, got it to my place and supported the bike between two trolley jacks and a plank of wood, removed the stand and began to repair it. Got the oxy acetylene torch going and create a splint / insert inside the stand with a curve for the bend. Welding it back together .... slowly ... with a stick welder... carefully matching the angle to the other side, filled with rust converter and paint, outside primed and painted.

Put it back on - quite please with the result and then tested it. Only to find that the newly replaced leg didn't clear the muffler. Unfortunately, having no other centre-stand to reference it to, I got ahead of myself and didn't "tack and check" before finishing it off. Have another stand due here in a couple of days, but will re-cut this and get the position right - THIS TIME.

Dropped my guard with most other things going right.

I suppose you could have a confessional section where we admit errors / stuff ups etc

PS:
Anyone know where I can get the diagrams for all the part numbers. Local BMW dealer is reluctant.

What is the correct name of the output shaft spring that makes the noise? ... Output shaft anti-backlash spring?? and its correct number?

What is the wiring for the speedo sensor on the final drive? Yellow closest to the wheel or on the outside? (I have yellow and brown)

Recommended parts supplier for Australia... re rear brake disc, Output shaft anti-backlash spring and maybe timing chain. Am thinking of Motobins UK.

Nearly due for final registration check and then onroad. Will enjoy the rest of summer then dismantle for clean and respray.

Happy riding

Guy
Wollongong, Aust

[Martin]

Guy just type in BMW K100 Parts Fiche in your computer heaps of sites for parts numbers. However RBM I think has a better source.
Regards Martin

[rbm]

Anyone know where I can get the diagrams for all the part numbers. Local BMW dealer is reluctant.

RealOEM Parts diagram for mid-1984 K100RT

What is the correct name of the output shaft spring that makes the noise? ... Output shaft anti-backlash spring?? and its correct number?

People refer to it as a backlash spring, yes.  The part I believe is 11211461532.  I'm sure Inge will keep me honest here.

What is the wiring for the speedo sensor on the final drive? Yellow closest to the wheel or on the outside? (I have yellow and brown)

If I understand your concern, it doesn't matter since it's output is sinusoidal and not referenced to ground.  Generally, Yellow goes to Pin 22 and Brown to Pin 23 on the OEM cluster.

[Martin]

Guy I got my rear disc and pads from Metal Gear in Brendale, was happy with both the disc and the pads. This was after I destroyed an EBC disc with Organic pads in about 8000 K's. They are on Ebay  and they do ship, but if you require the disc and the hub you will have to send it to them to be refurbished. I have spare discs front an rear with hubs, if it would help for a faster turn around I would drop of my disc and hub to be refurbished. They could then send it back to you and when you change it you could send yours back to me. As long as your hub is in good condition.
Regards Martin

[Vespa no more]

Thanks for the replies

RBM: excellent parts catalogue... sure to keep me window shopping for some time.

Re: speedo sensor: once I went for a ride (with it possibly wrongly wired) the speedo wasn’t working – thought I might have blown something.

Martin: thanks very much for the offer but time is not desperate and I won’t impinge on your kind offer. My rear hub is fine but the disc will probably not pass muster for the blue slip. $279 v $435 for (I assume the same quality) is a no brainer.
Who do you normally turn to for BMW parts in Aust? Am increasingly underwhelmed by local BMW dealer and have used Munich Motorcycles (not cheaper but otherwise very impressed). Any thoughts on overseas purchases (eg Motobin UK)?

While the bike is un registered I might as well get everything sorted (re noises and dodgy / worn items)

Thanks again

Guy

[Martin]

I only buy local when I'm desperate, sick of being ripped off. I get a lot of parts from UK & US Moto-Bins, Motorworks, Beemer Boneyard, Bobs. BMW. I just compare prices and go for the best deal, but be sure to check freight prices first. I recently bought two front Master cylinder kits including freight for less than one from both BMW and a aftermarket BMW dealer. I am lucky, a mate has three K75's a K100 and one and a half 75's in bits. If he won't sell a part, he will lend it to me until I can get it. I am off the road at the moment waiting fairing repair he hasn't got one I can borrow, but he lent me a rear indicator ( result of same accident) while I was waiting for one from overseas. It's great to have good mates.
Regards Martin.

[billday]

The original style center stands are known for rusting out and snapping, usually causing the bike to fall on the wife's car in the garage.

The newer style center stand (which is not made from bent hollow pipe) bolts right onto any 2-valve K100 or K75. They can be found on EBay.

Info here: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1200.0.html

[Vespa no more]

Final comments on the centre stand repair.

Having measured an old centre stand, I was able to get the correct angle, cut, reweld and paint.
As per pic, using a builder's protractor, 86 degrees on the inside of left leg.
The distance from the base of the curved legs to the base of the cross bar is EQUAL - pic shows 94 mm but they were worn. Mine were 97mm.
Recommend inserting a pipe inside the stand legs as a splint to add strength. I acquired oxy acetylene welder and bent it by eye and trial and error.
To hold the leg in place while it was tack welded I drilled a hole and used a self tapping screw to clamp the inner splint/pipe.
Don't have a working MIG welder and used a stick welder, and built up the welds plus sanded back with flap sanding disc on angle grinder.
All painted and installed and working well.

Moral to the story. Tack weld and check it. Don't assume (ie that the LHS matches the RHS)

Bike going to have rego check but the speedo is not working. Have just bought a K1100 and might try a swap. Have already cleaned speedo sensor on final drive.
Bike hesitant to rev up from idle when first started... suspect airlead at inlet manifold rubbers (out with the spray can today)

Happy riding

Guy