Replacing Fuel Hose

[Vespa no more]

Had to walk away from it this afternoon. The "cup of tea" option

Am recomissioning a K100RT 1984 (8 years off the road) and apart from all the other stuff I have done...

Want to replace the external fuel hoses. Fairing is off and tank is off, new filter and internal submersible rubber hose. Stale fuel drained from injector rail and return hose (goes to pressure regulator). Injector rail is loose but refuses to lift off. Any tips here?. Have sprayed WD40 onto the bases. Have blasted the back of injectors with compressed air to remove debris.

Having difficulty removing the upper housing for the air filter to remove the whole air filter housing and then access the hoses.
When father in law suggested don't bother, the air filter element refused to go back in (very tight). Would love to know that the hoses are good (and I still have another 1.5metres of new EFI (internal) hose for outside the tank). Any suggestions anyone?

Am keen to put it back together and start it up before Xmas.

Thanks for any help.

[Laitch]

Welcome, Vespa no more. Which repair manual are you using? How about giving a synopsis of the work you've already done. Adding photos of the bike to your thread will pique interest here.

First off, try a different, more specific penetrant than WD40. Spray, tap seized metal parts lightly with a small hammer, go have some tea then try removal after 20 minutes of meditation. Checking the condition of all hoses is good practice.

Removing the air box takes patience—remove filter, remove top, remove bottom. Watching this video may interest you.

Check that the air filter element is correctly oriented before attempting to close the box.

[Vespa no more]

Thanks for the reply Laitch

I am currently getting this bike on road after 8 years in my father in law's garage. He wanted $1000 for it. It is still in his garage as I / we work on it. He's 83 and used to ride a variety of bikes (married the nurse after crashing an Ariel square 4 I think) enjoys the process and the activity even if I'm doing the work. I enjoy his words of wisdom that slow me down before I get ahead of myself.

Having (finally) removed the fairing, the tank, replaced all hoses, cleaned tank out and identified a leak at the fuel sender threaded connection (old gasket / o-ring) getting parts was problematic.

A box of o-rings generally used by mechanics is relatively commonplace. However it is very important that they are made from NITRILE BUTADIENE rubber (resistant to oil and petrol).
In Australia, Ebay offers a set of over 400 different metric sized o-rings for $17 free postage (twice the price our American cousins no doubt pay). There are about 10 X 28mm OD (my measurement) in the box ... leaving 390 left!

Cheaper than $10 per gasket / o-ring from BMW.

Will update this site if any problems

While on this topic, I bought 2metres of submersible (petrol resistant) rubber (250psi) EFI fuel hose online for $50 rather than $52 (external hose only) and approx $35 for the internal hose supplied by BMW. I have been assured that this hose is acceptable for external usage.
Decided to re-use the fuel filter. Resented paying $58 for a OEM BMW filter. So I got a cheap $10 (GM-H Holden Commodore) filter. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the BMW filter had a clear plastic cap inside restricting reversal of flow back through the filter. Anyone found a cheap substitute (in Australia)?
Any thoughts or feedback on any of this?

Other shed action includes: front brake master cylinder dismantled & piston renewed, front brakes flushed and replacement top hose (blocked with brown crud that metal wire wouldn't shift), rear brake flush, fork oil (unimpressed with access hole for refilling - finally used a small bottle with hose drilled through cap), final drive oil, gearbox oil, new (motobatt) battery (my brother in law says you can use a 4 cylinder car battery in the bike?), radiator fluid, engine oil and filter (Ryco Z418... I'm not a tight arse but hate getting shook down... remember Big Lebowski at the funeral parlor? "... Doesn't make me a schmuck...")

Tyres are new and fuel pump replaced. Have treated myself to a few new items (hex socket set, torque wrench) ... essentials I tell the wife.

Injectors and fuel rail (which is resisting my advances ... it's a matter of time) next then drive splines...then registration...

Pictures to follow.

Good luck with all your bikes
Excellent site.

PS: the user name?... sold a Suzuki SV650 and a Vespa Rally 200cc to clear space for a “proper” bike.

[Vespa no more]

I have been using the manual that is available as a free download. generally good but there are times where some things are not so obvious.

I have watched all of Chris F@#$ing Harris' videos. Very useful. I love his mantra "No F' ing Locktight"

The bloody air filter element is refusing to go back in (wiring harness on top restricting movement and filter is catching on lower box and not sitting properly).

What is the metal device attached to the underside of the top air box? And how do I take it out given that there is an electrical wire entering the back side of it? Can't see a clip.

Hence the need to walk away.

[Laitch]

Sounds like the airflow meter—Section13 pg 16 of the manual. It does disconnect. It's going to take your moving the harness and other obstructions above the cover to be able to pull the cover out with your third hand, turn it over then disconnect it.

[Laitch]

It's usually a minor grappling match dealing with these components but they will yield eventually. You're going to need to get that filter back in there if you want to ignore all this successfully. :hehehe

[Scud]

I found this thread useful regarding fuel lines:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1042.0.html

I posted a picture of a fuel line with a spring around it in my project thread:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7638.0.html
- scroll down to reply #19 for the picture. That's what awaits after you get the entire airbox out. It CAN be done. But you do not have to remove the airflow meter (the big silver metal thing in the airbox lid). The lid can just hang for a while.

Make sure you've got some proper clamps for the fuel lines - you'll probably need to cut some of the stock clamps.

I don't know about all years/models, but on my 92 K75, the fuel rail and injectors are only pressed into place, not threaded. They should just pop out - but may take some pressure. They have O-rings that compress into the head and the fuel rail. Maybe a little lube will help there too.

[billday]

The first time you pull the fuel rail, it's scary. Like you're pulling teeth. Those old o-rings have bonded with the engine. Just be firm and persistent.

The airbox is also intimidating the first time. Best advice I ever got was to leave the top half in place -- don't disconnect or mess with the air flow meter. It's hard to believe it before you've seen it with your own eyes, but with the air filter out you can reach in there and undo the screws that fasten the bottom half of the airbox to the top of the engine block. Once that's out of the way you have all the room you'll need to get at your fuel lines. Search the forum, there are a couple of good illustrated threads on refurbishing the intake system.

When you get the injectors out, get them serviced. I used Mr. Injector http://www.mrinjector.us/ I'm sure there's someone similar down your way.

Have fun, and put up some pictures!

[Vespa no more]

Thanks for the replies - all very useful. The wiring harness on the top is the problem at present.

Have had difficulty finding the time to get over to my father in-law's place to work on the bike. Have resolved to trailer it home and install it in my too small garage. Being able to give 30 mins or more here and there will be very valuable if I intend to get it on road by christmas. Still to pull the injector rail, air filter housing and replace hoses. Hopefully, downhill after that.

To encourage the home mechanics among us: I was talking to a friend who owns a 2001 Ducati SS900. He had it "serviced" (fluids, timings belt, battery, bearings and fasteners... you know the speil) final cost = $900. This is a person who recently restored a 1967 VC Valiant. Yet he left so many simple things to the workshop. I think HE got serviced. this underlines the value of forums such as these - that most of it is do-able at home. And of course it does help if the bikes are well made in the first place and maintenance is expected (a BMW strong point)

I will create a post re: 3D printers and replacement parts - my dashboard (thin black plastic) is cracked and chipped. My attempts at  repairing it with fibreglass have been mixed.

Regards

Guy

[Martin]

Vespa I don't have a lot of faith in Ryco filters,each to their own.However I can get Mann fuel filters MWK44, Mann oil filters MW712 which are supposed to be one of the OEM.
I get them for a lot cheaper than BMW branded filters .I get them from Brisbane Air Cleaner Services 07 3881 0384 Kremzow Rd in Brendale .I believe you should be able to find them locally in Woollongong.I do believe that there is a substitute A/C element, but as I have a spare and they don't be needed to be changed that often, I have not pursued them. There is a Mahle A/C element but I couldn't find any locally.Maybe an  Australian member can come up with an A/C substitute ,I was told Super Cheap but no number given.
Regards Martin

[blakey]

Vespa, I've been using Ryco Z418 oil filters and Ryco Z200 fuel filters on my K100 for years with no problems what so ever. Ryco is used on my cars as well.

But as Martin said, to each their own...and thanks for the heads-up about Brisbane Air Cleaner Services too Martin!