Author Topic: BMW K75s Paint supplier Brisbane Australia (Read 16705 times)

Martin · « **on:** November 16, 2015, 01:01:13 AM »

:falldown: Hoping someone can help me.My K75s decided it needed a rest and consequently now requires a repaint on the faring & belly pan.
The only paint suppliers I can find are overseas & don't ship to Oz.I am trying to find someone around Brisbane I live on the North side ,but anywhere
will do.Any help would be appreciated.Paint Code 670 Classic Black.
Regards Martin

K1300S · « **Reply #1 on:** November 16, 2015, 11:00:02 AM »

you should be able to take the paint code to any autobody shop supplier. they can mix to the code in the desired brand of paint.

Martin · « **Reply #2 on:** November 16, 2015, 11:17:40 AM »

:falldown:Thanks for your prompt reply will give them a go tomorrow. :clap:

K1300S · « **Reply #3 on:** November 16, 2015, 12:46:06 PM »

that is how the body shops do it. car comes in, they look up the paint code for the car, call their supplier with the code, the supplier looks up the formula for the color, mixes it up on site, and sends to body shop. if the rest of the bodywork has faded, they should be able to match that. good luck!

PS - my K75s is also code 670.

Laitch · « **Reply #4 on:** November 16, 2015, 12:49:44 PM »

Your color scheme code is 670. Your Classic Black paint code is 162. I think using 162 as the reference will get you the color you seek.
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/paintcodes/blacks.htm

Martin · « **Reply #5 on:** November 21, 2015, 05:26:27 PM »

:falldown :After hunting around I found someone local shop to mix the paint.But after giving me the price of the paint and the approximate cost of all the other
sundries involved suggested I try Quality Bike Repairs around the corner, as the price might not be much more.This turned out to be the case.The staff was
helpful and gave be a pretty good ball park figure.I am now waiting for them to fit me in.I will post the outcome which will probably be after Xmas.Thanks for all the help
And a Merry Xmas to all. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin

K1300S · « **Reply #6 on:** November 21, 2015, 06:50:59 PM »

yeah! looking forward to seeing how it comes out!

Martin · « **Reply #7 on:** January 12, 2016, 03:36:51 PM »

Finally got a date for the repaint, will be stripping the belly pan off (2 holes ) and RH fairing (2 scrapes 1 crack )
on the weekend. Dropping in panels on Monday for a predicted return day of Thursday. Will remove belly pan first as it is the biggest job. In order to stop stone chips I have covered the belly pan with anti slip boat deck tape. Also have it on the tank as an unknown person sat on bike and scratched tank with his or hers belt buckle, my assumption. Looks good, works well, but a pain to get off. Picked up a can of Diggers Glue Rid contact adhesive remover, hope it works last time I just used WD 40 and finger nails, never again. While the fairing is off I will take the opportunity to fit a headlight relay, which I have been advocating to others but have never got around to fitting. I've had the relay and other bits sitting around for years, but never got around to it :dunno Will post pics as job progress's.
Regards Martin. :2thumbup:

Martin · « **Reply #8 on:** January 15, 2016, 05:56:00 PM »

Removed the belly pan. Gently tore off the anti slip deck tape, a lot of glue residue left behind, applied the Diggers Glue Rid with a brush. It's sort of like a thin jelly and let it soak for approximately 10 min, then used a plastic scraper to scrape it off, had to keep reapplying jelly. Did it in sections, washing with mineral turpentine after scraping, a lot easier than previous method of removal. I originally applied the deck tape 16 yrs ago, and have only renewed it once, so it has worked well. I was about to go down to the boat shop to get some more to reapply after the repaint, but decided to see if there was anything better around. The deck tape does have a couple of disadvantages in that it can only cover mild compound curves as evident by the chipping on places I could not cover, and if you don't get a well stuck down edge water can get in and eventually lift the edge. I have been looking at a product called Plasti Dip ( which for a change we can get in OZ ) in a spray can, has anyone used it, and if so how good is it. I thought about doing the majority of where I applied the deck tape with this and just using a small piece of deck tape on the hard hit area. I do ride dirt roads and so far have avoided a lot of damage. Any thoughts appreciated.
Regards Martin.

Laitch · « **Reply #9 on:** January 15, 2016, 06:20:09 PM »

I know a couple of guys who've used it on their bikes (KLR650) and they like it. Here's a link to an articulate promoter of plastidip.

Here's a link about durability.

I'm going to repaint my cases with it after I repair their gashes and dings.

Martin · « **Reply #10 on:** January 15, 2016, 11:00:40 PM »

Thanks Laitch I am going to use Plasti Dip with a small amount of deck tape, undecided whether to use gloss black or clear. At the moment while I have the fairing off, wiring in a long overdue headlight relay. Only overdue by 17 years, doesn't pay to rush into things. :hehehe
Thanks again Martin.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #11 on:** January 16, 2016, 09:44:06 AM »

Have you looked at pickup truck bedliner? Incredibly tough stuff. It is now sold in rattle cans for DIY. A long ago member here, FrankenDuck, painted his tragkorbs, and other bits with it to cover and protect from stone chips.

Martin · « **Reply #12 on:** January 16, 2016, 10:01:50 AM »

Thanks Gryph will look into it however I now have another slight problem, I am about to post.
Thanks Martin.

Martin · « **Reply #13 on:** January 17, 2016, 12:36:15 AM »

Have looked at heaps of sites on Plasti Dip and various brands of bed liner. Plasti dip has some advantages in that it is removable and can be glossed and metalized, it also comes in clear. However I don't think it will stand up to stone chipping as well as the deck tape. The deck tape is however a pain to fit, as you have to cut it to shape, and you need to line it up very carefully when fitting, and due to it's nature will not cover compound curves . I was going to a combination of both, however at Gryphs suggestion I have looked at bed liner in a spray can, some of it looks crappy and lumpy, and some is hard to clean and some fades. But I have been looking at Rust Oleum bed liner which seems a pretty good product seems easy to clean, fade free and reasonably smooth. I have used Rust Oleum satin black on my engine cases, and it was a good match and, a good product. Has anybody got any first hand experience with their bed liner. Thoughts appreciated.
Regards Martin.

Martin · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2016, 02:43:58 PM »

At 0400 AM replaced my centre and side stand assembly, having removed it for repainting and soaking the inside with LPS 3. Lucky I did so it has worn bushes, I ordered new bushes, end plugs, ignition switch bezel and the choke cap. Due to the price of freight and the scarcity of some parts in OZ try to make the order worthwhile. Ordered parts from Motorworks UK, always have to end up phoning them as they seem to have trouble processing my Visa card automatically. It gets rejected but if I ring them it's fine. I have been assured by Panel Shop that I can pickup panels at 1700 PM . I will replace the fairing tonight when I get home after work ( Only work Wed & Thur ), I am not going to replace the belly pan until I decide how I am going to stone chip proof the pan. At 0200 AM Friday morning going for my weekly ride to meet up with a couple of mates, all non riders bar one and he's out of action. Five herniated discs in his back, 12 to 14 months wait before they can operate if they can. I will post pictures once I have the Beemer back together, and pictures of the reason it decided to lay down.
Regards a happier Martin.

Martin · « **Reply #15 on:** February 04, 2016, 07:30:10 PM »

YeeeHaaa on the road again got my panels back from Quality Bike Repairs#/5 Leanne Cres Lawnton (07) 3889 6845. Pickup my panels, cannot fault the workmanship they did an excellent job. They had originally quoted on 1/2 fairing minor fill and repaint, and 1/2 belly pan 2 hole repair and repaint total price $385.00 Au. However once I had the belly pan off, I realised I should probably get the whole pan done. On picking it up I asked for the price and was told the price was what they quoted originally, no extra charge for the rest of the pan. Lovely people to deal with and after the price I can't really complain that it took longer than initially stated. Would definitely recommend them to anybody in Brisbane. Probably a bit to far for US, UK & Canada. Now as to the reason it decided to lay down, I built my own lift table out of a hydraulic hospital bed the original hydraulics a little overstressed so substituted a removable 2.5 ton car jack. On finishing the lift table I ran the bike on a couple of times, and lifted it a couple of times no problems. On the third go I hit the end of the clamp slightly faster than I had previously gone, the bike bounced of the clamp and threw itself to the right. I threw my right foot out to balance it and my foot slipped of the edge of the table and down we went. I am now thinking about removing the clamp giving me more room for error, as it stands now fully open I have 125 cm and the tyre is 105 cm. Last two times I have used a spotter but they are not always available.
Regards Martin

Laitch · « **Reply #16 on:** February 04, 2016, 07:43:49 PM »

A well-designed wheel clamping/centering system, Martin.

Martin · « **Reply #17 on:** February 04, 2016, 08:06:19 PM »

Laitch not my best design however the clamp is not really needed the table has two more eye bolts further back and two ratchet straps really hold it. if I do keep the clamps will probably do a lead in. It works fine if you have a spotter, but not always available. He who makes no mistakes does not do anything. :nono
Regards Martin.

Laitch · « **Reply #18 on:** February 04, 2016, 08:17:32 PM »

The clamp on mine is useful. It holds the bike upright and stable then I attach the straps. I usually guide it into the stanchion, put it up on the center stand, strap the center stand to the front wheel then drag it to where I want it, clamp it and strap it to the table. Maybe not your best design, Martin, but pretty darn good and easy to modify.

Martin · « **Reply #19 on:** February 04, 2016, 08:23:26 PM »

Laitch if you could send a picture it might be helpful.
Regards Martin.

Laitch · « **Reply #20 on:** February 04, 2016, 10:10:43 PM »

I'll take a shot of it at the shop tomorrow, Martin. Nothing fancy; you can see one on the web.
http://www.nhproequip.com/pro-1200-motorcycle-air-lift

Martin · « **Reply #21 on:** February 05, 2016, 04:56:55 PM »

Laitch the strapping of the centre stand to the wheel is I presume to stop the stand folding up while you drag it into position.
Regards Martin.

Laitch · « **Reply #22 on:** February 05, 2016, 06:45:48 PM »

Here are some photos of the lift, Martin, which looks just like the ad but the colors are reversed and there's a motorcycle on this one.

A couple of the photos show one of the most important features—60grit traction paper. This stuff comes in varying lengths and widths. I bought a 10' roll of 12" width. Adding this to the lift's surface makes rolling the bike onto the lift a much less precarious affair. The tires grip the surface helping me to concentrate on forward motion rather than lateral slippage.

The motion of the lift is controlled by a small 150psi, 1.5 hp compressor—auseful setup. I've got a 18" tall, 5-caster stool that I can use when gravity starts getting the better of me.

Martin · « **Reply #23 on:** February 05, 2016, 06:53:44 PM »

Thanks Laitch I also use a adjustable roller stool in conjunction with the lift. Although I have to pump mine up manually I don't know how I did without it.
Regards Martin.

Laitch · « **Reply #24 on:** February 05, 2016, 06:55:00 PM »

Quote from: Martin on February 05, 2016, 04:56:55 PM

Laitch the strapping of the centre stand to the wheel is I presume to stop the stand folding up while you drag it into position.

That's right. The bike can be rotated 360º after it's been pulled back from the clamps so I can amaze onlookers with my dexterity. Pulled back far enough from the clamps the forks can be removed.

News:

Author Topic: BMW K75s Paint supplier Brisbane Australia (Read 16705 times)