Start in gear?

[67charger]

I've had my 1993 k75 for about 2 weeks now and logged around 800 miles. There are no problems with anything and it runs great. I just was wondering if it should start in gear with the clutch pulled? As it is I have to put it in neutral to start.  Thanks.

[F14CRAZY]

My bike will start in gear with the clutch pulled...haven't tries it in gear with the clutch not pulled...spose I could see on the center stand

[67charger]

Thanks, I'll have to figure out why it won't then.

[Laitch]

It should start with the clutch lever in. 

[Chaos]

There is an electrical switch screwed into the clutch handle assembly. Same button switch used for the front and back brakes.  Yours probably went bad and is staying open.  They're about $50 from BMW,  I'd just live with it.

[67charger]

Thanks , I figured it was something like that.  I'll sort it out when the snow flies.

[Laitch]

Here's a description from MAX BMW that conforms with what Chaos is describing. It's on page two of the document.

[billday]

Find the switch and visually check the connections -- you may just have a wire that needs soldering. If the connections look OK, try flushing the switch with WD40.

The start-in-gear-with-clutch-lever-pulled-in function is an important safety feature: If you stall in traffic, especially on an uphill incline, it can be awkward (or worse) to hold the bike in place and shift into neutral so you can get it fired up again.

[drut]

If the switch is the same as the front brake switch you may be able to fit a cheap switch as I did.

"Just bought 1990 K100rs & playing catch up with faults,soldered in new front brake switch from Maplin (£1.49  :clap:)"

[67charger]

Thanks everyone, this is a great bunch of people here. I have ordered a new switch and will get to it when it is parked in the winter. It is amazing the amount of information that can be shared , Sure beats trial and error.

[gazman]

Reading the thread I thought does mine? went to check. Dropped her in gear, pulled the clutch, hit the button. . . nothing. 5 mins later had changed the switch and cured the fault. 2 things I love this site an havin a spares bike :riding:

[Motorhobo]

Looks like the switch on my daily rider has failed and I'm adding a note here for anyone who is on the fence about the need to replace it.


Recently my clutch cable snapped about 20 miles from home on a flat stretch of rural road with intermittent traffic where trying to push start wasn't an option. I had two options: either spend all day dealing with trailer hell or ride it home without a functioning clutch. Fortunately, option 2 is a no-brainer on these bikes. All you need to do is put it in 2nd, pull the sidestand up and hit the start button. The starter will engage, you'll lurch forward in second, and you'll be motobricking at which point you can rev-match to shift gears. I rode home using all 5 gears without grinding or mis-shifting once.


That's not the first time I've had a clutch cable fail and not the first time I've had to start in second and ride with no clutch. Maybe someone will say that if I maintained and checked my clutch cable regularly that woudn't happen. True -- but s**t happens and those cables snap sometimes. This time it was because the little felt grommet at the lever end had disappeared and the cable frayed through. The point being that the ability to start with no clutch is a feature that has saved my ass at least twice, so do yourselves a favor -- if the switch fails, fix it.




 

[Martin]

Still on my original 25 year old clutch cable, with a couple of mods. I fitted a grease nipple to the clutch arm pivot, and I use a PTFE spray lubricant  Tri-Flow on the cable. Tri-Flow is available from bicycle shops. I flush the cable every 1-2 years and lubricate the pivots with white lithium spray grease. Do not lubricate the cable with WD40 or similar, I've been told is can effect the cable liner causing it to break down.
Regards Martin.

[Chaos]

Motorhobo, good point about no bump starting with a bad clutch switch.  I guess if worse came to worse you could short out the switch but that would be a PITA on top of the PITA of having to bump start it.

[johnny]

greetings...

the 1st time my clutch cable snapped i used a bungee on the lever by the exhaust to start and stop... had a half day ride back to the barn... so i stopped at the hardware store and gotts some cable and snaked down the oe jacket and used cable ends at both ends... rode it like that for months...

the cable is stainless aircraft cable that can be found and most hardware stores... the cable ends are hex and round and can also be found at most hardware stores and some napa stores...

for $10 you can make the fix on the road... or put it in the bung ahead of time... no need to carry an oe cable or that nipple if you gotts this kit with you...

j o