Author Topic: New Pump Oil Flow No Good (Read 26802 times)

MichaelMandel · « **on:** September 30, 2015, 12:53:10 AM »

...I'm the guy who was posting about his 85 k100 dumping water from the weep hole. I found a used water pump that was cheap enough that it was worth the , sprockets and impeller alone but its actually intacint and supposedly functional. I checked beforehand and 93 k1100 pump is said to be swappable with my 85' k100 and I'm left wondering... Do I just pop it on before unnecessarily rebuilding and tracking down new seals and o rings?

Off the bat I see the sense in just rebuidling it all while its apart. I am however in a financial state where every penny counts and I don't even have the seals and rings yet. Thoughts???

Tuco · « **Reply #1 on:** September 30, 2015, 01:44:40 AM »

Install it !

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #2 on:** September 30, 2015, 06:13:33 AM »

run it

koapono · « **Reply #3 on:** September 30, 2015, 06:23:48 AM »

while the pump is easily swapped you may need to change the stub shaft as the drive/driven gears are different. there was a design change in 1990.
go to MAX BMW (or similar) and compare drawings/part numbers for both bikes.
IF they do just swap out please post and let us know.

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #4 on:** September 30, 2015, 09:32:24 AM »

Is the stub shaft the small gear that pops into the pump housing and looks like a small version of the main shaft that goes through the seals? Bought one of those from the k1100 as well so its ready to pop in. The only thing standing my way is if the the body of the pump is at all different. I am hopefully it mates up.

In a perfect world I'd swap the large and small shaft and gears along with the impeller and new seals right into the old body. Money and time will have me try just popping the replacement on first.

Will keep you guys updated.

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #5 on:** September 30, 2015, 09:36:10 AM »

Quote from: MichaelMandel on September 30, 2015, 09:32:24 AM

Is the stub shaft the small gear that pops into the pump housing and looks like a small version of the main shaft that goes through the seals? Bought one of those from the k1100 as well so its ready to pop in. The only thing standing my way is if the the body of the pump is at all different. I am hopefully it mates up.

In a perfect world I'd swap the large and small shaft and gears along with the impeller and new seals right into the old body. Money and time will have me try just popping the replacement on first.

Will keep you guys updated.

Yeah you have to use the "stub shaft" from the K1100.

Body is the saaaame thing

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #6 on:** September 30, 2015, 09:39:43 AM »

Cool, got a stub shaft from the k11 as well.
Not crazy about gambling that the seals are fine but its worth a shot if resources are tight and I need my brick back up and running smooth.

Brad-Man · « **Reply #7 on:** September 30, 2015, 09:42:37 AM »

You're only out your time and the cost of a gasket...Go for it!

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #8 on:** September 30, 2015, 09:44:05 AM »

No gasket, just liquid sealer and I've got a tube so just out time.

Thanks, think I'll got for it!

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #9 on:** September 30, 2015, 11:23:14 AM »

I installed a used K1200LT pump from ebay on my brick and did not service it...racked up like 10k so far and no leaks

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #10 on:** October 01, 2015, 12:02:01 AM »

That's awesome. Nice to hear a pump swapout success story. Will pop it on as soon as it arrives. One question. Anyway I can remove the pump on an incline and leave all the oil in the bike? Pretty fresh and expensive oil... If not I'll just catch it and toss it back in.

BBKME · « **Reply #11 on:** October 01, 2015, 07:52:53 AM »

I just changed my pump on an '86 K75T and lost less than a cup of oil. Good luck with the project.

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #12 on:** October 01, 2015, 08:01:01 AM »

I removed my pump and let it drain for a while, then stuck a 2x4 under the front wheel to get it so it wouldn't keep dripping for days. Then I wiped up all the oil in the exposed passages and ports and wiped down with brake cleaner, RTV-ed, and installed the "new" pump.

I don't think you could keep oil from dripping though unless you had the engine standing on its end though in that case it would probably start dripping out somewhere else. At any rate it'll only need a couple glugs to top back off.

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #13 on:** October 01, 2015, 09:59:47 AM »

So... I was doing some searching last night and camr upon something that said the k1100 pumps only fit 4 valve k100's. I took a screen shot so you can take a look. Since my k100 is a 2 valve will fitting the k1100 pump be an issue or is this an erroneous parts listing?
{Pictures below}

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #14 on:** October 01, 2015, 10:01:01 AM »

Quote from: F14CRAZY on October 01, 2015, 08:01:01 AM

I removed my pump and let it drain for a while, then stuck a 2x4 under the front wheel to get it so it wouldn't keep dripping for days. Then I wiped up all the oil in the exposed passages and ports and wiped down with brake cleaner, RTV-ed, and installed the "new" pump.

I don't think you could keep oil from dripping though unless you had the engine standing on its end though in that case it would probably start dripping out somewhere else. At any rate it'll only need a couple glugs to top back off.

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #15 on:** October 07, 2015, 10:51:09 AM »

Got one for 70 bucks.

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #16 on:** October 07, 2015, 11:30:31 AM »

Well at any rate, compatibility issues or not, my K75 has a K1200LT pump and hasn't overheated or burned up yet. $70 isn't bad though

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #17 on:** October 07, 2015, 11:46:35 AM »

Gonna pop it on this AM.
Let me ask you another question, I bought a rear brake master cylinder off of a 04 k1200 to pop on my bike. Aside from mounting brackets and whatnot do you think the plumbing will match up?

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #18 on:** October 07, 2015, 11:59:34 AM »

I'm a drum-braker so not sure on that one

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #19 on:** October 07, 2015, 05:55:55 PM »

OK, last question.
any idea what the torque specs are on the bolts securing the water/oil pump to the housing are?

Scott_ · « **Reply #20 on:** October 07, 2015, 06:14:17 PM »

Are you wanting the pump mounting bolts, or the cover bolts......

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #21 on:** October 07, 2015, 06:23:57 PM »

Pump mount. Already did it. Just did it pretty darn tight without being too tight. Also put a little rtv on the head under to keep water in pump. Should I have used antur sieze, I totally forgot I had it here. Is it a huge that I didn't? How else do those two internal bolts keep water out of threads?

Scott_ · « **Reply #22 on:** October 07, 2015, 06:27:50 PM »

Not sure that the older ones are much different, but at least for the 1100's, the mounting bolts and cover bolts for the water pump are torqued to 10Nm.

rbm · « **Reply #23 on:** October 07, 2015, 07:20:42 PM »

Hope you didn't use too much sealant. There is a oil pressure relief hole in the block that needs to remain clear. Too much sealant will block that hole, causing leaks. Also, it's a good idea when mounting the pump to only tighten the mount bolts until finger snug, let the sealant cure for a couple hours then torque the bolts to spec. Better seal in the long run. Some have had success using black RTV in this application but an anaerobic sealant works much better because of the oil pressure this area endures.

MichaelMandel · « **Reply #24 on:** October 07, 2015, 11:52:44 PM »

Followed instructions on the blue RTV gasket sealant which was hand tighten, sit for an hour and complete tightening and let cure for a day before use. Didn't use too much sealant. My only concern was the two long bolts that secure the pump to the motor that are insideinside the pump housing under the water pump cover. I forgot to treat them with a an anti sieze and am concerned for the long haul since they're I side the water pump and exposed to water.

BTW the next or impeller was completely rusty and siezed.

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Author Topic: New Pump Oil Flow No Good (Read 26802 times)