Coolant Choice - Flame Away!

[Bill]

FWIW, I've had indie techs tell me that dex cool is fine in the GM products, IF the ph is monitored and adjusted as necessary with fresh concentrate.

Some coolants don't play well with dex cool   :mbird  Turns the the mix to caffe latte coloured goo ! DAMHIK ......  Imho dex cool is more trouble than its worth.  As with any fluid change get all the old stuff out first !

[bizzaro]

Yep, that's how I found out my bike runs cooler(according to the temp gauge) with the thermostat out and just water.  I drained the coolant out then I filled it with distilled water and drove it about 20 miles to douche it out, and drained it again.  Then I filled it with 10% Water Wetter, 20% coolant, and 70% distilled water.  Um.  the old stuff, green prestone or peak or both :dunno , seemed to work just as well for cooling!.  Now I know.  But it ran coolest with the thermostat out and just water?

[Bill]

Running too cool can reduce performance some,,,, Does it run too hot with the thermostat?  Keeping a consistent operating temp will keep every component in tolerance and perform as it was designed to.

[Laitch]

In my quest for excitement, I spent one hour in a frenzy of speed-reading and can say unreservedly with the awesome power of the WWW and MOTOBRICK.COM archives behind me, that there are three coolant objectives for the Brick owner.

1. Use long life coolant—a distinct coolant formula—that is without nitrites (nitrides). According to a BMW service bulletin in our archives, nitrites will discolor the coolant level tube to a degree that will mask the coolant level. That will impede checking for a proper coolant level.

2. Maintain the recommended coolant level. When the level lowers, it may allow the formation of coolant and water vapors that are corrosive and that may promote seal damage and sediment formation. DexCool was involved in defending itself in a class action lawsuit several years ago. In those days, apparently, when DexCool levels dropped, the vapors were alleged by its dissatisfied users' lawyer brigade to be particularly corrosive causing wailing, moaning, gnashing of teeth, hand wringing and end-of-the-world consequences to engines and the bank accounts of their users. Payouts were made.

3. Expect optimal results by using a single brand and type of coolant. Coolant provides pump/seal lubrication, coolant channel preservation, freeze protection and overheating protection. When different brands of coolants are mixed to an extent approaching 50% or less of their original concentrations, a subsequent loss of their protective qualities may result.

BMW recommends the use of BMW coolant or other brands of long life coolant that are free of nitrites. That's the extent of BMW's recommendation in my K's riders manual. Coolant degrades and evaporates. Long life coolants are probably recommended because they maintain their properties well. The two year replacement cycle makes sense; the maintenance of recommended coolant level seems essential to resist degradation of parts, gnashing of teeth and the rest of it. Believe it or not.

So much for my excitement—until the premiere of gone_ape's sequel, Return of the Throttle Blipper.

Running too cool can reduce performance some . . . Keeping a consistent operating temp will keep every component in tolerance and perform as it was designed to.

+1

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Product Review-NAPA Long Life Coolant in a 1994 K75RT mixed 60/40 water/AF with distilled water in flushed system.

After 2900 miles in 4 days at speeds of 70 to 100+ in ambient temperatures ranging from 60 to 100+ Fahrenheit, engine operation was excellent and coolant temperature as displayed on the BMW gauge stayed within the 5th and 6th marks at all times after warm up.  Temp gauge read at 5th mark consistently, only rising to 2/3 way to the 6th when under heavy load on uphills and in 90+ temperatures. 

I consider this to be pretty good.

[bizzaro]

That sounds great!  :2thumbup: Did you have any lower speeds?  Stop n go?  As soon as I am off the Highway, my temp starts to go up.  In stop n go traffic, I shut it off while I wait. Thats at probably 75 fahrenheit and above. Is this normal for a K1100 LT?

[Laitch]

As soon as I am off the Highway, my temp starts to go up.  In stop n go traffic, I shut it off while I wait. Thats at probably 75 fahrenheit and above.

I've got a few questions, bizarro. How far "up" does the temperature go in stop-and-go traffic? Can you describe the difference in temperature like Gryph does according to marks on your gauge? Does your fan run and stabilize the temperature when it starts to go up?

[bizzaro]

Laitch,
On the Highway,  It runs between the center and first mark left of center.  On hot days, usually toward the center more, but not over, and cooler days, more towards the first mark left of center.  It doesn't take long if I get in stop n go traffic, that it starts creeping over the center mark and towards the mark right of center.   My fan doesn't come on till well after it is pissing coolant from the overflow tank so I shut it off about halfway from the mark right of center and to the red mark.  And even slower riding and lower gears (in a town, and or up a hill) on a hot day will bring it over the center mark.  So I just avoid the pissing coolant and engine heat by turning the engine off.  I think the bike is air cooled with water assit, not really a water cooled engine..........................or so it seems?

[Laitch]

My fan doesn't come on till well after it is pissing coolant from the overflow tank

This problem seems to have been surfacing on your bike since June of 2015, bizzaro. You should consider focusing on a remedy; the bike's fan should be running to prevent the over-expansion in the overflow tank. The fan relay might be faulty, the temperature sensor might be faulty and the thermostat may not be opening. Having these components operating correctly is essential to prevent engine damage. You can reuse the coolant that has been drained so you can do the diagnostics.

It's not hot enough up here to cause the over-expansion problem your bike is exhibiting, even in Montpelier traffic. :hehehe Here's a thread with some procedures.

[Martin]

A bit left of field, but I have seen fan blades not attached to the shaft. Fan motor comes on and the blades don't spin, or don't spin properly. Some blades were attached to the shaft by a spring clip, the clip squeezed the centre of the blades onto the motor shaft. I no longer have a OEM fan but I think my original had this clip. I have also fitted an override switch, but I don't rely on it for cooling just use it as a check. As per Laitch you need to get it sorted.
C.heers Martin.

[Laitch]

Remove the thermostat and check its opening temperature. That's fun. It's like growing sea monkeys.

[bizzaro]

I checked the themostat when I changed the fluid. It opened just as the turkey was done! :clap: Perfect. (180-185 degrees).  I am suspiciuos of the temperature sensor due to other indications such as carbon buildup and all. (running rich?)

My fan works and blows air, I have hot wired it. It doesn't come on till I am into the solid red for a bit. To be clear, my bike is not overheating, but would on a hot day at idle. They all do according to this forum.  that is how folks check the fan here! (or one of them).

I will study up on checking the temp sensor.  I am pretty sure I just read here the test is a replacement, though I am sure there are other ways!  Also, I don't want to hijack this thread!
Thx Guys,
Bizz

Hey Laitch,  I could just swing over to Ridley with some brews!? :2thumbup: :hehehe

[Laitch]

To be clear, my bike is not overheating, but would on a hot day at idle. They all do according to this forum..
Hey Liatch, I could just swing over to Ridley with some brews!? :2thumbup: :hehehe

They all spray coolant at idle in traffic in temps over 75º? Burn dressing must be part of a K1100 tool kit. :hehehe
Come on over with the brews. The road in front of our house is where people stop and ask themselves "Are we on the right road?" If I'm not here just leave them in the shade next to the chopping block and wood chunks.

[stokester]

In my quest for excitement, I spent one hour in a frenzy of speed-reading and can say unreservedly with the awesome power of the WWW and MOTOBRICK.COM archives behind me, that there are three coolant objectives for the Brick owner.

1. Use long life coolant—a distinct coolant formula—that is without nitrites (nitrides). According to a BMW service bulletin in our archives, nitrites will discolor the coolant level tube to a degree that will mask the coolant level. That will impede checking for a proper coolant level.

Great info, thanks for researching and sharing.

I've used Prestone Long-Life coolant, changing it out every two years at a 40% concentrate following the procedures on Fleischer's site http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/k-coolant.htm and have had no issues in the hot summer commute in coastal Virginia.

I work at a Chevy dealership and use DexCool on a daily basis.  I haven't worked there long but as far as I know the Dex issue is passed and its cause was just as you described.  My short time helping out at the BMW dealership allowed me to get some of their coolant for a good price so I will be using it next time.

[nadrol]

I was doing coolant research for my newly acquired k1100 as I needed to fix the thermostat (can't maintain temp well, especially in rain) and discovered the Zerex coolants.

I ended up getting Zerex G30 from my local autoparts store. This is what the latest BMWs, Audis and VWs still use, afaik, and is backwards compatible with g48 and g05. It's $20 for a gallon of premix (no concentrate), and it's enough for a k1100. And it's free of all the nasty stuff mentioned in this thread.

I did not check further than the below post, but I believe the blue coolant mentioned on this forum is the Zerex g48.

There's also some Zerex brand radiator flush that I used followed by a couple distilled flushes, as my coolant was dark blue green.

Background on the Zerex 'g' series https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/phosphate-free-coolant-prestone.71985/post-676653