Help replacing clutch cable on K75S

[gfx]

So my clutch cable snapped at the hand-lever end; the metal at the end had snapped off. I bought a new one from BMW and used the taping method to run it through the same path and now have it is successfully set up on the handlebar end.

After figuring out I had to lube the rubber "boot" or shielding to get it through the crevice and setting everything up at the hand-lever end, the "barrel" and end of the cable is maybe 1/2 an inch short of being able to get under the actuator arm as it should.

I ran out of time and had to leave for the day but I was wondering why it couldn't reach. A local BMW mechanic told me I had to manually hold the actuator arm up in order to get that cable to fit in place with the barrel securing it. However he also scarred me because he told me I might have to adjust some kind of nut or screw, something about "near the transmission". Also, I would have to adjust this every few days for the first few weeks. The mechanic also told me the new cable (new from BMW that should fit) might be a slightly different size than the one I'm replacing... which I honestly don't believe.

On the other hand my uncle said that once I get the cable in place, "it's all done", and I just have to make sure there's just barely enough play.

I'm a little confused here and wondering if there's more to this project than I thought. Any insight and help is greatly appreciated.

PS: Sorry for my terrible terminology

[orforester]

You know while we are on clutch cable questions, the bike I have (K100RS) in 27,000, has gone through three cables.  Is there a swivel on the lever other than the end of the cable?  Most cables have an end that fits into a barrel that turns with the lever.  Mine just fits in the lever, no barrel end? 

So in answer to the above question. Adjustment is easy, at the transmission, pretty straight forward, couple of wrenches, 13 and 10 mm, I think and adjust the freeplay.  However I am told or have been that you need to adjust the handle bar first to within spec, then adjust at the transmission, then everything should be within tolerance.  I am still fooling with mine, but hey I am a total newie to Beemers.

[Rick G]

First try it without adjusting the gearbox end and if as I suspect it is OK then adjust the handlebar end and all is ok.
The gearbox adjuster is on the other end of the arm that the cable hooks into. use a 10 and 13mm spanner (yes I am Oz) for the adjustment.
To get the gearbox end in lever with a big screwdriver and push up and the arm will go easilly then put the nipple in place and remove screwdriver. Make sure you have 3mm play at the handlebar lever and adjust the gearbox adjuster till you have just the 3mm of slack, make sure the adjuster is tight and all done except for your personal preference for the lever and that is adjusted at the handlebar.

Make sure the arm on the gearbox end is not touching the muffler as this will make the arm and cable hot and I suspect that was what caused a failure on my K75 in the past.

[frankenduck]

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=332.0

[gfx]

First try it without adjusting the gearbox end and if as I suspect it is OK then adjust the handlebar end and all is ok.
The gearbox adjuster is on the other end of the arm that the cable hooks into. use a 10 and 13mm spanner (yes I am Oz) for the adjustment.
To get the gearbox end in lever with a big screwdriver and push up and the arm will go easilly then put the nipple in place and remove screwdriver. Make sure you have 3mm play at the handlebar lever and adjust the gearbox adjuster till you have just the 3mm of slack, make sure the adjuster is tight and all done except for your personal preference for the lever and that is adjusted at the handlebar.

Make sure the arm on the gearbox end is not touching the muffler as this will make the arm and cable hot and I suspect that was what caused a failure on my K75 in the past.

This helped a lot, thanks. I got the cable in and it's working fine but it seems like there is way too much play on the handlebar end. I suspect that I'll need to unscrew the hand-bar end until there is just the right amount of play? Is it normal to have that screw out a bit?

You know while we are on clutch cable questions, the bike I have (K100RS) in 27,000, has gone through three cables.  Is there a swivel on the lever other than the end of the cable?  Most cables have an end that fits into a barrel that turns with the lever.  Mine just fits in the lever, no barrel end? 

So in answer to the above question. Adjustment is easy, at the transmission, pretty straight forward, couple of wrenches, 13 and 10 mm, I think and adjust the freeplay.  However I am told or have been that you need to adjust the handle bar first to within spec, then adjust at the transmission, then everything should be within tolerance.  I am still fooling with mine, but hey I am a total newie to Beemers.

Have you been keeping the nipple holder lubed up every 3-6 months?

[orforester]

Yeah ok, what Nipple holder, I don't have one, that is the problem as I see it?

[gfx]

Yeah ok, what Nipple holder, I don't have one, that is the problem as I see it?

I believe you referred to this earlier as the "barrel". It's the little barrel-shaped piece that your clutch cable nipple goes into on the end of your clutch cable goes into on the handlebar side.

[Phil Marvin]

Hi, Orforester,
    Look where the clutch cable goes at the handlebar end.  The cable end ("nipple") fits into a round piece ("barrel") which fits into the lever.  The barrel needs to rotate as the lever is pulled.  It will, if it is kept greased.  (I use lithuim grease, but this is one of the few spots I think the old red BMW grease would work, too.)  If it doesn't rotate, the cable will be stressed and, one by one, the cable strands will break until all are broken.  This usually happens when you are a couple hundred or more miles from home, at night, in the rain, the Saturday of a holiday weekend, and you aren't carrying a spare cable AND BARREL.  If you are carrying a spare cable and barrel, all will be well.  If you only have the cable, you WILL drop (and lose) the barrel.
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin - El Paso, TX
'95 K75RTP
'94 K75A/3

[orforester]

Had enough questions, so was in Portland anyway so stopped by the shop.  I do not have the barrel in the lever, so as I suppected that is why this one walks through cables.  Guys at the shop said if the cable breaks there is a better than average chance of losing the barrel before you know it was there.  Turns out they were on the phone with a guy with the same problem and sold him the last barrel in the shop.  Oh well they will ship it to me.  Thanks for all the advice and I think I will eventually buy another barrel and carry it and a spare cable. 

I rode it today, using as little clutch as possible, just to nice weather to sit around and I had to test my work on the dan to see if it was working.  One success, one more to go.

[telecaster-custom]

Just replaced the clutch cable on my '91 K75S.   Went easier than I expected.

One question - the cable end ("nipple") went right into the barrel, and fits nicely in the lever on the handlebar end.  However, when I squeeze the lever, the barrel drops down in relation to the lever, and seems liable to pop out if I keep going.  Is something broken on my lever or is something not adjusted properly?

seated correctly


barrel dropped, cable placement look ominous.



ideas?

[Scott_]

Yea, I'd say if you leave it like that you will be repacing your cable again soon.......
Makes me wonder a little bit if your handle has a little more wear at both the cable barrel location and at the main pivot point. You might be due for a new handle.

How is the bottom gap where the handle pivots. My train of thought here...... is there enough room that you could use a piece of black duct tape or such on the bottom face of the handle where the barrel if dropping to prevent it from dropping.
I know it doesn't explain the cause, but at least it could possibly prevent you from breaking another cable in the mean time.

[rbm]

If the handle is due for replacement, then use a drift to hammer slight dimples along the bottom edge of the hole in which the barrel sits.  That will prevent the barrel from dropping but not add to the overall thickness of the handle itself; it will also preserve the barrel for reuse.