K1100RS Clutch and Engine rear main seat Replacement Info?

[KCinSB]

I have a '93 K100RS that has about 80K on it, and I don't know if the clutch spline has ever been lubed, at least not on my watch. Also, it has been showing a drip from the "bell housing", ...... and the clutch has slipped on occasional down shift hard pull.  So I am in the process of disassembly, and could really use some of the tech articles I had seen in the past. My search results here alway seem to go awry, but did find Jonny's great Spline Lube post using Google. Can someone here please point me to any Engine rear seal and Clutch replacement tech info? 

[Scott_]

I'd just about bet with a 98% probability that the oil leak you are seeing is from a bad clutch nut o-ring, not the seal itself.
You still have to remove the transmission and open the clutch pack as the o-ring is behind the locking nut. They dry up with age and crack/split and then leak.

[KCinSB]

Uuhh,.........  what's a clutch nut?   Seriously.   I am getting pretty deep into the job, stuff falling off, so far nothing broken.  I am hoping to access my issues when it's open to examine better.  I have to admit though, I've not run into a clutch that has o-rings.  I do have a Clymer, and also the factory manuak (which is less helpful in my opinion) 

[rbm]

There's this article in the Lieberry that can get you pointed in the right direction.  It has a PDF attached that gives the step by step instructions you seek.

The O-ring fits on the output shaft behind the clutch pack.  It seals the output shaft around its perimeter and prevents engine oil from leaking into the bell housing.  Since you're seeing oil leaks from the bell housing weep hole, the O-ring is not doing its job.

The clutch nut fits on the end of the output shaft and secures the clutch pack in place.

[KCinSB]

Thanks!  I'll get deeper into it today.  From what I have seen so far, regarding web instructions , photos, and help, the alternator does not need to come off. I have found I cannot disengage the tubular mounting structure that the 2 ABS units bolt to, from the 4 vertical studs. I can't lift it high enough to clear the stud by the alternator, as the mount hits the black Alt cover. Doesn't seem like that cover will come off, will it?

[rbm]

Once you get the alternator out of the way, the tubular assembly that holds the ABS units will slip up over the battery tray studs.

[KCinSB]

Yep, It looks like you were correct!  The main seal doesn't show leakage, but the il was heavy at the 20mm nut.  And, as you mentioned, the o-ring is rock hard.  I think my over filling the oil level was likely not a good idea either.......   So, I am 1/2 way there, and didn't break anything!

[K75RT Keith]

Be very careful on the re-assembly so as not to nick the o-ring.  If you do, it will leak. BTDT

[KCinSB]

Yep.   BTW, the Disc is contaminated, so I guess cleaning it is out of the question. To bad, because it's still got some life/thickness left. One thing I did notice is that if you "rub" both the front and back sides opposite directions, the lining will shift on the rivets.  I wondered if that was normal?

[rbm]

I've read that others have cleaned oil contaminated clutch disks but I've not head whether that process rejuvinates the clutch completely.  It might be worth a try except you'll be opening up the transmission again if not.

Check out how much relining the clutch will cost.  That's a cheaper alternative.