Author Topic: Cannot remove final drive unit K75  (Read 2924 times)

Offline redtank

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 17
Cannot remove final drive unit K75
« on: July 11, 2015, 12:25:17 PM »
So I just got my 88 K75 back last week after someone else owned it since 2012. Wanting to do the right thing, I decided to grease the final drive and drive shaft splines. Removed the rear wheel and now cannot get the socket head cap screws loose that hold the drive to the swing arm. I tried using a Bondus 8mm allen wrench, but when it started flexing I decided to get better tools, went to Sears and bought an 8mm hex bit socket and 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. Before I use this combination on the bike, does anyone have experience with this problem and have a solution? I don't want to snap off the SHCS heads or tear the aluminum threads out with each screw. I'm afraid to apply heat due to seals inside the drive unit.

Thanks,
Cris

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
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Re: Cannot remove final drive unit K75
« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2015, 02:07:10 PM »
I would use heat to loosen things up.  Quite possible that the PO used red Loctite on the screws and the only way you are going to get them out is to heat up that loctite to break the bond. 
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline Chaos

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  • Mars needs women!
Re: Cannot remove final drive unit K75
« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2015, 02:30:35 PM »
The socket is a good idea, usually some firm taps with a hammer is better than steady pressure when breaking loose stuck fasteners.
  • sw ohio
1987 K75S    VIN 0231
Original owner, Original litter
200,000 miles (plus or minus) and 5 paint jobs
sold 6/23
2023 Ural 2WD sidecar (BMW's bastard step child)

Offline redtank

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 17
Re: Cannot remove final drive unit K75
« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2015, 02:32:13 PM »
Thanks for the replys:
Well I decided to use a propane torch on the housing at each screw and was finally able to break them loose with a 3/8 breaker bar and 2 ft cheater on the bar, didn't think they'd come loose, but I got lucky. Splines are in good shape, but there was no moly paste to be found. Pinion seal is weeping and I think the gear lube has washed all the paste off. Funny thing is I couldn't find any locktite on the screw threads, so I'm wondering why anyone would over torque screws going into aluminum.... :dunno

Cris

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