struggling to remove rear brake caliper from 1992 k1100LT

[blackie1]

am attempting to change my rear brake pads for the first time. but there just does not appear to be enough clearance between the top of the caliper and the inside rim of my wheel to enable me to slide the whole thing off the rotor.

i have detached rear suspension strut from stud bolt and pushed that out of the way.

i have not drained the brake system or released the brake line from the rear caliper. (which i must admit the book told me to do)

i cant see me gaining any extra room by doing that.
any pointers?
cheers

[Scott_]

Unbolt the wheel. Even if you don't totally remove it, you do have to disconnect it from the final drive.

[blackie1]

cheers Scott
so just loosen it and pull it off enough to give me the clearance i need.
thanks for that.
you would think that would be  in the manual wouldn't you

[blackie1]

all done and back together,
 thanks for the advice.
 105Nm torque on those wheel studs is about as tight as i have ever done anything up in my life.
 i was waiting for something to break

now that it is all back together is there anything else i have to adjust, bleed , reset?
or just top up reservoir  and test ride and bed them in?

[Scott_]

Well, if you don't know when the last time was that the brake fluid was flushed and changed, that would be my bit of advice... change the fluid, both front and rear.
A lot of riders do it every year or every other year. Keeps the system clean and working much longer.

[Elipten]

Consider changing the brake lines given the age of these bike.

[rbm]

Changing the brake fluid will also prevent corrosion of the master cylinders (front and rear) because brake fluid is hydroscopic.  Being lazy with that periodic task will mean replacing the MCs eventually.

[blackie1]

thanks for all the advice , i will flush/bleed front and rear.