any k75s riders in NYC area willing to swap rides?

[ludwig]

Hello Brickers

I've had my 94 K75s for about 10 months and 5000 miles (31000 mi on the clock now), and I've become more aware or "sensitized" to a buzz from the engine that starts to become noticeable and increases above 5000 rpm. It is not severe but noticeable enough that I don't like to cruise much above 5000 rpm or 75-80 mph unless I need to. The "buzz" seems to diminish when I pull in the clutch lever and roll off throttle. The bike starts and runs well, except for being slightly finicky on cold start sometimes, and there is that pause from stop if you roll on the throttle hard, but Ive heard that is normal on these bikes.

I checked the engine/trans mount torque settings, they did not need tightening.

The PO had the following pertinent items addressed before I took over:

New plugs, valve adjustment, throttle bodies synched, general tune up
New injectors, fuel pump, filter, tank cleaned and fuel system serviced, new fuel lines
 (typical water contamination issue)
"monkey nuts" replaced

When I bought the K it was such a big improvement in smoothness over my previous 81 Yamaha XS850s, but now that Ive put some time in the saddle, and I've read so many testimonials about how these K75s are supposed to be smooth through the whole rpm range, that I'm a little perplexed whether I actually have an issue or not.

I am planning a long trip (maybe a month long and 6-8000 miles) starting mid July.
Because that previous work was done so recently I'd like to try to compare mine to another like model before I try to start chasing this thing (or not if it is just normal) IF it is something that can be addressed and improved I'd sure like to be on top of it before I leave.

Does anyone live in the New York City area that would be willing to swap bikes for a couple of hours?

My apologies if the request is bad form...just a newbie to these bricks.  :dunno

Many Thanks!

[TX brick]

Check the muffler mounting bolts. If they are loose they can cause a high rpm buzz.

[RobP]

Check the muffler mounting bolts.

That, and twist the heat shield if need be to increase the space between it and the frame or other parts.   I had a similar annoying buzz at certain higher RPMs and found that the heat shield was too close to the frame.  Also check the heat shield mounts and screws as well.  The 'cages' that hold the captive nuts in place can break off and leave a loose connection.

[ludwig]

Thanks tx brick and rob p.

I will check the torque on the muffler clamp.
Header flanges necessary as well?

That's an interesting point about the kickstand...I had noticed recently that when the kickstand retracts, it does not line up exactly within it's groove. The buffering bushing on the stand is in place, but because it does not line up exactly in it's track, when it retracts there is a metallic "twang" when it swings up to the muffler.
I can manually slide the stand lever into it's proper resting position with my toe, but I don't think it stays where it should.

Will check these out...

[F14CRAZY]

I've also thought I had abnormal vibration but tried all those things. Its better than the R1100RT I rode so I figure it must be alright

[TimTyler]

Does the vibration happen in any gear > 5Krpm or just in 5th?

Got new tires?

[ludwig]

Any gear, Tim.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I have had experience with buzz/vibration/mechanical noise with my K75RT.  Three things I have found.

First, adjusting the clutch cable for 75mm allows the clutch arm to touch the muffler on my bike.  Rattle/buzz.  Shorten to about 72mm to get it away, and readjust the screw that contacts the clutch pushrod.

Second, alternator drive.  Although the alternator bearings were good, monkey knutz like new, and good alignment of the dog and cup, my alternator vibrates, mostly at low rpm, but it does it as well through the whole rpm range.  Took alternator off and was amazed at how smooth and quiet the damn thing ran.  I just have to accept a little alternator buzz as part of the bike's personality.

Third, replacing and carefully balancing the front tire made a huge difference in smoothness in the handlebars.  I can now do 700+ mile days without my hands going to sleep on me.

[TX brick]

Thanks tx brick and rob p.

I will check the torque on the muffler clamp.
Header flanges necessary as well?

That's an interesting point about the kickstand...I had noticed recently that when the kickstand retracts, it does not line up exactly within it's groove. The buffering bushing on the stand is in place, but because it does not line up exactly in it's track, when it retracts there is a metallic "twang" when it swings up to the muffler.
I can manually slide the stand lever into it's proper resting position with my toe, but I don't think it stays where it should.

Will check these out...

  tighten the two small bolts that hold the muffler to the peg plate

[K75RT Keith]

What is the production date on the tires and what is their overall condition?  If they're worn down or old it could be part of the problem. 

Replacement of the bushing on the side stand will clear up most of the mis-alignment.   

[ludwig]

Thanks all!

Took in all your suggestions, but it's still "buzzy". (or not, maybe it's just something that I've become hyper-sensitized)

I tightened the two bolts holding the muffler to the peg, was not loose.

Checked the gap between the clutch arm and the muffler...about 2-3 mm. Not touching.

The clearance between the muffler and the undercarriage is very close but not touching...  I can slide a few pieces of paper in between. And this buzz happens cold or hot, so I don't think swelling from raised temps has an effect.

The heat shield seems secure and the carriage bolts are in place I think.

Have not removed the alternator, yet, but I'm suspecting that it may be the culprit, and being that it is a low mileage alternator that already had the bushings replaced, mine may just be a buzzy one that is transferring harmonic noise through the frame.

I plan on replacing the tires soon anyway, but I don't think that is it as this buzz happens any gear starting 5k rpm and up.

Until I can compare it to another bike to know for sure, it may just turn out to be part of this bike's personality.

Will post separately, but I really should do a complete spline lube before my trip, considering the miles on the bike (31500) and the miles I'll be logging (about 8000) When I tried to ask the  local kbike "guru" tech what he'd charge, he said he won't even touch it because he only does clutch spline lubes in the winter or some damn thing. Prima F**king Donna. So I am boning up on every bit of tech advice and info on the net to do it myself.
Although I'm a little nervous about tackling it I like the idea of trusting that it was actually done.

If any kexperts  are in riding distance and willing to look over my shoulder during and maybe help me lift that back end at the appropriate moments, name your price. I'll come to you.  :deal:

[Motorhobo]

You can ride any of my k75 but you have to come to Maryland...about 3 hours down 95.  PM me.

[RobP]

The clearance between the muffler and the undercarriage is very close but not touching...  I can slide a few pieces of paper in between.

I'd try to get at least 1/8" or more between the exhaust or heat shield and anything else.  When I first re-installed my heat shield I had a slight gap between it and the frame but at certain RPMs the heat shield would oscillate and make contact with the frame, creating an annoying buzzing.  If you do the spline lube yourself, take the opportunity to align the exhaust system with enough space between it and other components.

If you haven't already, check out the Chris Harris spline lube videos on YouTube.

he won't even touch it because he only does clutch spline lubes in the winter

It's a time-consuming process in which you can discover other broken things along the way.  Maybe he is just trying to serve many customers during the busy riding season without getting tied up in a bunch of back-to-back spline lube jobs.

[ludwig]

I get ya Rob. And his shop is a one/two man outfit without much space.

I will try to position the exhaust with more clearance when I button things back up after the spline lube, Thanks!!

[ludwig]

"If you haven't already, check out the Chris Harris spline lube videos on YouTube. "

I am indeed studying them, great resource, as well as reading everything I have found here and the other forum.  cough, cough... :yes

[billday]

Although I'm a little nervous about tackling it I like the idea of trusting that it was actually done.

If any kexperts  are in riding distance and willing to look over my shoulder during and maybe help me lift that back end at the appropriate moments, name your price. I'll come to you.  :deal:

It's not hard, but it takes time, especially the first time, to take everything apart and put it back together.

Everything, and I do mean everything, you need to know is here:

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,490.msg1093.html#msg1093

[edit] AND HERE:

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1793.0.html

[another edit] This thread got me thinking about the help I got the first time I did this. Somewhere in this forum are instructions on the best way to support your K to remove the transmission, and I'm fckd if I can find them. So, here's how I was taught (and it's always worked for me):

1) With the bike on the center stand, remove rear wheel, rear shock, final drive, muffler, peg plates, and swingarm. (When you take off the shock, make sure the swingarm is supported).

2) Take out the underseat tool tray/"brain" (consult your Haynes or Clymer's for how to unplug the brain) and the battery.

3) Place a sawhorse on either side of the bike, parallel with the bike. Slide a 2x4 (about 6 feet is good) over the top of one sawhorse, then through the frame where the brain was. Ask a passerby to lift/support the bike from the rear frame while you lift the end of the 2x4 and slide the other sawhorse under it. (I like to double up the 2x4 with a short section through the frame loop, but that's probably overkill.)

4) Your K is now off the center stand, supported by the front wheel and the two sawhorses. Go ahead and remove the center stand (this is a good time to give it a good cleaning and greasing), unhook the clutch cable (don't let the clutch arm snap all the way back -- tether it with a loop of nylon twine or a wire tie), and remove the gear position indicator switch. Drain the transmission oil, then remove the transmission.

I've probably left out some essential steps but the main point is, there is an easy and cheap way to support the bike without complicated hoists or lifts. And I bet as soon as I hit "save," I'll find the doc in the lieberry that has all this info, but minus the errors and omissions.

[kris]

Ludwig,
Do not fear the spline lube. If you've got a good toolbox and any mechanical sense it is a straightforward proposition. Figure out what you are going to use for lube. You will find everything for Staburags, to Honda moly to mixtures of the above. I chose Guard Dog 545(?) or 525(?)....something like that. They will ship you a small jar out of Houston. Nice folks to deal with and good product.  Price = reasonable, service = very good.

It's a great opportunity for you to learn lots more about how your brick ticks and to examine your splines, clean them really well and lube them properly. You can also check out your clutch basket if you are so inclined but will need new bolts, etc., for that job. With 31K on the clock I doubt there is much wear, assuming it was ridden normally. Be sure to mark the basket with a white marker before dis-assembly in order that you can re-align the various components as you found them. Otherwise, apparently, you'll get some nasty vibration out of a misaligned basket.

Good luck. My brick actually gets silky smooth above 4500 rpm and really starts to sing around 5. Haven't gone higher but these bahn bikes really seem to want to run. It's the damn poeleeeese that wouldn't be impressed with me flyin' by them....don't think they'll buy me blaming my bike  runnin' rough at lower speeds :riding:

[ludwig]

So today my new friend Motorhobo let me swap bikes with him, it was a sweet ride down to Maryland from NYC to meet up.

And tho I wouldn't say that my K starts to sing above 5k rpm, ( I still think it's smoother a little south of that) we did determine that I have nothing to fret and a reconfirmed I gotta hold of a pretty sweet 75.

Besides letting me pick his brain, he also very graciously invited me to go back down to use his shop and glean some of his expertise to do the spline lube!

Was a great day in the saddle with near perfect weather and some outstanding tarmac. And it was nice to ride with ride with another Bricker!  :riding:

I'm really grateful for the encouragement and guidance, and thanks for those links Billday, I had not come across those yet. That method with the sawhorses is brilliant. The reason I was hesitant is the logistical PITA of doing a job like that here in the middle of Manhattan without a garage where you can't walk away from it unfinished.  And thanks again to this forum, it will work out just fine. Really looking forward to my first spline lube.

Kris, I will be passing right through your neck of the woods on my way west through Canada in late July, please don't hesitate to PM me if you want to try to set up a ride together.

As Motorhobo said to me, "maybe this is a situation where you need to remember what Johnny O says", ...and I'm paraphrasing here....

"Quit your belly achin and getts to moto bricken!"

Cheers

[bocutter Ed]

Kris, I will be passing right through your neck of the woods on my way west through Canada in late July, please don't hesitate to PM me if you want to try to set up a ride together.

There's at least a half dozen in Toronto, in contact with each other, if you're passing through ...

[Motorhobo]

Yeah, that's a sweet bike...kinda reminds me of how mine sounded 60k ago.

The spline lube will be done...will PM you re parts, but not a bad idea to review related posts here about parts, and start thing about must-have parts to carry with on a 7000 mi camping ride like the one you have coming up.

My first choice would be space clutch cable.

Van aka Motorhobo