K1100LT '93 - Best Fan Replacement Method?

[AussieBrick]

Hi All,
As you will see I am new to these bikes, so I am unashamedly trying to get the best advice from you all....to save workshop hours.  :clap:

The fan on this bike has failed.

I would like to know the path of least work and hassle to install a replacement.

eg. Do most fairings (sides and front cowl) have to be taken off and then pull radiator forward...OR... can you get away with the cowling immediately;y in front of the radiator?

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers.

[Scott_]

To change the fan motor, you will find it much easer to remove the front cowling and the right side lower fairing cover, and the lower airbox.
You will also need to lift the fuel tank to access the wiring connector for the fan.

[gazman]

G,day Aussiebrick, the search box is your friend. I can highly recommend fitting a manual switch to operate the fan, use it whenever approaching lights or slow traffic, temp rises fast,an we live in a hot country.

[AussieBrick]

Cheers Scott_
I just had a quick look after taking the RHS fairing. It looks like one top mount hex bold loosens the radiator and then two phillips screws at the bottom of the fan loosen it off.

Any need to pull radiator hoses or once the air box is out and the tank eased up, that is it???

Cheers in advance.

[rbm]

You'll have to drain the coolant and remove the hoses to extract the radiator.  Once free of the bike, you'll have full access to the fan.  Others have found that an aftermarket SPAL fan fits nicely and is better than a replacement OEM fan.  You'll need to fashion a bracket to fit the SPAL.

[AussieBrick]

Rbm thanks for chipping in. I was staring at the area wondering how it was possible to remove the fan with the rad or hoses in place. Anyway I pulled the whole lot out.
I had a spare fan in a bucket of bits but the harness on the spare was too short so I pulled the fan apart and soldered on a longer harness. /-). Replacement if the whole lot prob took a good hour after that (excluding testing that it all worked with engine running).
As I was already playing in that area I removed the thermostat to improve coolany flow (cold running not an issue in Sydney, but overheating is).

[AussieBrick]

Thanks for everyones generous input.

[Scott_]

As I was already playing in that area I removed the thermostat to improve coolany flow (cold running not an issue in Sydney, but overheating is).

I'd suggest keep an eye on your water temp pretty closely. The K-bike thermostat/housing design is more of a 3-way valve than your traditional thermostat in your car/truck.
When the stat is 'closed' there is some flow thru the radiator but most is thru the bypass line. As the stat warms up it allows obviously more flow thu the radiator and less thru the bypass.
Removing the stat thus removes that control and you will have uncontrolled water flow thru the path of least resistance, which I could pretty much bet will be the bypass.
If you are wanting 100%flow thru the radiator at all times, with the stat removed, you could remove the bypass line and cap both ends.

[gazman]

Just my 2c worth but thermostats are there for a reason not just cold climate countrys they let your engine get to operating temp quickly. I,d take it out for a side of the road repair but not otherwise. again 2c worth

[AussieBrick]

Thanks everyone. I will keep an eye on how it behaves and get back here if It looks like it should be put back in.

[Tuco]

Put it back in!