My new to me 92 Blue 100rs

[krissetsfire]

So far i'm loving my decision of picking up this 92 100rs. It came with some work though. This bike is pretty fun. I need to learn to rev it I guess though. Everyone on the interwebs says rev the thing. I'm silly though and keep shifting @ 3k or so.

Anyway I've read some really good advice from the forum and am going to take it. I do though want to kind of run down my thoughts and maybe get some of the gallery to suggest or drop some pennies into my well.

I don't really have any service records of the vehicle. The guy i got it from received it from a relative that passed away. The guy I bought it from though has been working in motorcycle dealerships and w/ cars his entire life so first thing he did was pick up a repair manual (which he gave to me).

He logged the things he did in the back. Before I list them I'd like to mention i've never worked on motorcycles before but did rebuild my miata motor from ground up. Forged  pistons, rods, arp hardware, turbo, etc... so I mention this because i'm not scared of getting my hands dirty just a little inexperienced. With your guidance hopefully i can become familiar and comfortable with the brick as well.

ok so here goes...

(All done sometime between 68k & 69k)
12/12 - Oil Service: rear gear oil & gearbox
12/12 - Rear brake pads
1/13 - Replace Right Mirror Glass
1/26 - Replace ?? Combo Switch (can't read his righting where the ?? is... says  - #61312205231)
9/14 - Change Battery & Replace Starter Relay

1) So first things first. Earlier today I went home for lunch. After I was done and came outside to leave I turned the key on and the bike repeatedly tried to start. If i pulled my kickstand up it would start fine but if i turned it off the bike would keep cranking (even when i pulled the key out). While I was messing with the side skirt and the positive battery cover the bike died and it stopped. I put the bike on the charger and came home and was able to get the bike to act normal.

2) I'd like to take this bike on a nice long trip. Before I go on a trip though I should probably go over it with the fine toothed comb. I read an excellent post about things to check for when purchasing a k100. I read this after i purchased my k100. Anyway... So I trolled around a few miles here and there and parked it in the garage (put a total of about 15 miles on it). Today I put probably 60 miles on it and noticed a couple drips of oil on the ground right below the front of the bell housing. The drips were not there from my light driving but were today after my warm day (not sure if that has any significance).

now after providing you with my situation I am ready for advice! Where to start and what to do. As mentioned I'd like to take this on a trip at the end of June and I do not want to have to exercise my roadside card!

Also I have plenty of tools but no motorcycle stands or specific tools. Anything I should buy to help make things easy on me during service? I intend on being as comfortable with this engine as I am with b6 or bp mazda motors.

[Scott_]

Greetings, and welcome to Motobrick knowledge base.
With the list of what you posted, I would suggest(in no specific order):

drive shaft spline lube
valve clearance check
rubber hoses/lines integrity
check brake lines(original hoses can de-laminate internally with old brake fluid and cause brake issues)
change/flush brake fluids
change/flush cooling system(make sure to blend coolant with distilled water)
change/flush fork oil
gaiters on the bare fork stanchions
clutch (transmission input shaft) spline lube
check the back side of brake master cylinder pistons for crud buid-up (can lead to brake fluid leaks)
check the "monkey nuts" at the alternator drive.(they are rubber and can collapse/disintegrate with old age)
carbon build-up in starter and worn starter brushes
lube the clutch lever pivot point(spray silicone works good) and the brass barrel the cable connects to(keep lubed or will cause broken cable...btdt) DO NOT LUBE THE CABLE--JUST THE BARREL

There are many threads here on all of these items. The search box is your friend.
I'm sure there will be others with more thoughts.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Welcome.  Nice bike you have, I have one like it that I just finished doing a complete refurb.

The combination switch you mention is the left side handlebar switch for the hi/lo beam, horn and turn signal.

For tools, I would guess that all you will need to start is a good set of metric allen wrenches.  You probably already have a lot of metric wrenches.  You also want to get a tube of Honda Moly 60 to do the splines on the drive shaft.  You also want to have torque wrenches and a torch to soften up the red Loctite used on some of the threads.

Besides the splines on the drive shaft I would suggest changing the fork oil and flushing the brake system and cooling system.  If you are feeling really ambitious you might want to lube the clutch splines and replace the O ring on the output shaft that is probably leaking. 

Check all the rubber hoses for the cooling, fuel and breather for cracks.  Look inside the tank for rubber bits from the fuel pump support and change the fuel filter while you are in there.  Depending on how long the trip you're planning is, you might want to consider putting new tires on now rather than having to replace them somewhere a long way from home.  Check the clutch adjustment and lube the barrel at the end of the cable that is in the hand lever. 

That's all I can think of right now.  I'm sure some others will chime in with more stuff you can do.

[krissetsfire]

thank you for these quick replies.

I understand the large list scott dropped and know I can search for all these issues. My primary thought though is kind of how The Gryphon here put it down. I want to know what things I can do in groups. This way I can efficiently do things. Like on my audi when I do the timing belt i do the thermostat and water pump since i'm in there and it's a 6 hour job. I don't want to spend another 6 hours later just to replace a stupid thermostat.

Gryph is that your rs in your avatar. you put k11 fairings on it?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Yes, that's it.  Saw another 100 with an 1100 fairing I had to do it to mine.  Pretty easy, as the upper part is the same on both bikes.  As I recall, you replace the lowers, belly pan and mount, and knee pads.  I understand it was a dealer installed option when the 100RS4V were new.

I had the bike repainted white.  Originally was royal blue metallic.

[krissetsfire]

I've been thinking about doing it as well. The side panels are different too but not necessary. I may do it after i get all my maintenance taken care of. It depends on how clean I can get the rest of the plastics. With age you know the plastic starts to show. If i can't clean it to satisfaction i'm gonna get naked.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

You can see in the avatar photo I kept the original battery covers.  I like them better than the 1100 covers.  I did the paint because the original had been very poorly touched up by a previous owner, and I kinda dig the white look.

[Scott_]

Oh, ok, I think I follow what you are thinking, and I would probably do the same.........well to lump multiple 'to do's' for the rear side of the bike.

start with replacing the clutch nut o-ring 1st.
In the process, you will:
have the transmission out to lube the transmission input shaft splines,
have the starter out to clean carbon and check brushes,
you will have easy access to the alternator to check monkey nuts(cush drives)
have the rear brake lines apart to replace rear brake fluid and inspect lines for cracking, and inspect master cyl for dirt build-up,
have the rear drive off to lube final drive splines,
you may or may not remove the swing arm from the transmission(some people don't), so if you do, you can check drive shaft u-joint and swing arm bearings,
have the clutch cable disconnected at the lower end so have to check the adjustment on re-assembly, and can lube the upper barrel end.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Almost forgot.   Go to NAPA and get a can of COPPER anti-seize.  You will be putting it on ALL the threaded fasteners when reassembling.

You might want to stop at the Hardley Davidson dealer for some S-100.  It's an amazing cleaner for all the nooks and crannies on your bike.  Does a pretty good job on dirty hands, too.

A digital multi meter will come in real handy for chasing electrical problems.  You can get one cheap at Radio Shack that is closing.  The best is their model 22-802.  It's nice and small and has a beeper for checking continuity. 

Speaking of electrical troubleshooting.  You might want to get some DeOxit spray contact cleaner and dielectric terminal grease.  These bikes have a chit load of electrical connections that over the years have gotten dirty and corroded.  Keeping them handy and cleaning and greasing every connector you can reach goes a long way toward having a reliable electrical system.  Check when you are at Radio Shack for the DeOxit.  If they have it, you will get it at a good price with their going-out-of-business sale prices.  Stay away from all the other contact cleaners.  Some of them have solvents that will eat the plastic parts of you switches and connectors.  I found this out the very hard way.

[RobP]

I am also bringing a stored-away K100RS back to life.  Check out the Chris Harris spline lube videos on YouTube.  I found these extremely helpful, not only for the spline lube how-to but for related tips and information.

Also I have plenty of tools but no motorcycle stands or specific tools. Anything I should buy to help make things easy on me during service?

I bought a very nice set of T-handle ball-end hex wrenches.  Not absolutely essential, but they are nice to use and speed up the bolt turning.  I also bought a set of transmission guide bolts and a clutch pilot tool on ebay.  I did not end up needing the clutch pilot tool during my spline lube effort, but the transmission guide bolts are extremely helpful when re-installing the transmission.  You can make these from long metric bolts, but I just bought them online to save me the boondoggle of having to find suitable metric bolts locally.

[krissetsfire]

I did check a series out but he specifically singles out that a 92rs is not the same procedure. I did some more reading and read about some of the differences but wasn't completely clear.

I took notes though. I need to compare them though to the manual before I order seals and things. I'll document what I do ultimately in this thread.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I did check a series out but he specifically singles out that a 92rs is not the same procedure. I did some more reading and read about some of the differences but wasn't completely clear.

I took notes though. I need to compare them though to the manual before I order seals and things. I'll document what I do ultimately in this thread.

I am assuming you checked Chris Harris' videos on spline lube.  The difference is the swing arm. All the other K100 and K75 bikes had the Monolever swing arm.  Your bike has the newer Paralever jointed swing arm.  The Clymer and Haynes manuals aren't real good when it comes to this swing arm.

Chris does have a video for a different bike, but the swing arm and spline lube principles are the same.  The torque values he mentions in the video are not correct for your bike, use the values in your Clymer Manual.