Clutch Centre Tool

[jacksdad1963]

Hi, has anyone got the dimensions for the K1100 4V clutch centering tool?
I'm replacing my clutch soon and can make a tool for free, so don't want to waste £20 buying one!  :2thumbup:

[Inge K.]

Found elsewhere on the web.

[F14CRAZY]

Bah, just eyeball-it. If all else fails press the clutch lever when mating the trans back to the bell housing which will instantly line things back up

[Motorhobo]

Bah, just eyeball-it. If all else fails press the clutch lever when mating the trans back to the bell housing which will instantly line things back up

I don't agree. Use the tool if you can get or make one, there are several special tools that make working on these bikes much easier and that's one of them.

[F14CRAZY]

If I had one on hand I'd use it, but it worked for me the past 4 times I've had my trans off  :falldown:

[TimTyler]

Here's my K75 clutch centering tool. Screwdriver and cloth gaffer tape. Has worked fine a half-dozen times.

Once the gearbox is re-installed on the bike, the clutch disk auto-centers perfectly the first time the engine is started.

[Motorhobo]

Here's my K75 clutch centering tool. Screwdriver and cloth gaffer tape. Has worked fine a half-dozen times.

Once the gearbox is re-installed on the bike, the clutch disk auto-centers perfectly the first time the engine is started.

I had similar makeshift one that seemed to work fine -- Im just saying eyeballing it without any centering tool is more hassle than using a tool, even a makeshift one. I spent the $$ on the tool from Ken Lively because I was making the order for the valve adjustment tool and I had 20 bucks to spend and wasn't familiar yet with the concept of the self-centering clutch disk and wanted to make sure I was doing it properly.

So you're saying the torque on those 6 bolts that hold the clutch pack together is low enough to allow the clutch disk to shift to center as soon as the input shaft splines engage the clutch splines? I guess that assumes the input shaft and clutch splines can't be engaged and misaligned at the same time. I don't have the knowledge to agree or disagree with that assumption. But if it isn't correct, then not centering with the proper tool could result in misalignment resulting in spline wear and clutch imbalance, however minimal.

So I guess that would beg the question whether it's possible for clutch and input shaft splines to be both engaged and misaligned. Or I have the whole concept wrong ... Wouldn't be the first time so if I do I can't wait to be corrected.

[TimTyler]

The tip of the tool/screwdriver pokes into the diaphragm spring which is not position-adjustable. The gaffer tape centers the clutch plate well enough to insert the clutch pushrod and re-assemble the gearbox onto the engine.

Once the bike is started with the clutch hand lever depressed then released, the clutch plate will settle into its happy place.

• Make sure you don't assemble the diaphragm spring backwards.
• Don't forget the spacer ring between the clutch housing and diaphragm spring.
• Use new OEM clutch nuts and washers.

[Motorhobo]

Alright then...anything will work to get the clutch pack installed and the pushrod thru, even gluing the clutch disk up there with silicone caulk like a 'reputable' dealer who shall remain unnamed is alleged to have done at least once. Watch Chris Harris' K100 spline lube video for details -- silicone caulk method not recommended.

[TimTyler]

You want the clutch plate as centered as possible so that the gearbox will slide effortlessly back on to the engine without bending the pushrod.

If the gearbox does not slide on easily all the way (except for maybe the last 1/4") you're doing something wrong.

My experience is all with the K75, not your K1100. Perhaps someone else know if there are differences?

[Scott_]

You want the clutch plate as centered as possible so that the gearbox will slide effortlessly back on to the engine without bending the pushrod.

If the gearbox does not slide on easily all the way (except for maybe the last 1/4") you're doing something wrong.

My experience is all with the K75, not your K1100. Perhaps someone else know if there are differences?

I've done both of my 1100's a couple of time, the only thing I can think of that would be different would be that on the 1100 you can install the clutch push-rod after you have installed the transmission so you don't have to worry about bending it with install(only removal).