My First Build: 1992 K75S

[jbmccarthy]

Hey guys

First of all I'd like to start out by thanking everyone reading this. If youre an active member on this forum, chances are I've read one of your posts and you have inspired me to take this project on.

Next, let me give a little background. Ive wanted a bike for some time now, but only just recently built up the nerve to actually pull the trigger. I have always been really impressed with the cafe racer style, and and a huge fan of BMW automobiles, so I was drawn to the K bikes from the start. I poured over forums such as these in order to learn anything I could about these beautiful bikes, and when a 1992 K75s popped up on Craigslist, I made my move. Heres what I came home with.

As you can see the bike needs some TLC to get back into shape, but 21,000 miles was too good to pass up for the price. The bike has some issues mechanically and electrically which I'll list below, but I plan on doing as much maintenance and repair work as I can on my own. I havent exactly decided what look im going for cosmetically yet, but Ill be stripping the bike down and removing the fairings, saddle bags, and possibly the seat (Corbin, but has a small rip...) so if anyone needs parts, feel free to PM me as I'd much rather sell them here than on Fleabay or CL.

Heres a preliminary list of things I want to do to the bike:
-Fairing and saddlebag removal
-Clip on bars
-New round headlight assembly
-Side mounted license plate holder
-Perform 12k maintenance according to schedule
-Lower instrument cluster (possibly mount to old handlebar clamp)
-Remove small dents on left side of tank
-Fix speedometer warping causing needle to stick
-Fork boots
-Investigate ABS warning light (red triangle on instrument cluster blinks while riding, after I press ABS switch the light remains on but no longer blinks)
-Left turn signal blinks twice as fast as right side
-Fabricate new side covers
-Relocate ignition switch

I'm sure I'm missing a few things since this list is mainly off the top of my head, but I've already got some parts en route including the license plate holder and bars! Can't wait to start making her my own, and I'm looking forward to the successes and frustration that will surely follow. I'll continue to keep whoever is interested in the loop by uploading progress here, as well as asking questions and bouncing ideas of off you guys.

-Jack

[pdg]

It'll be interesting to see some larger pics ;)

(Recommend upload to the forum, or use photobucket/imgur - never had much luck with imageshack...)

[jbmccarthy]

Pdg - sorry about the pics, I'll work on resizing and adding some more when I get back in town

[jbmccarthy]

As promised, here are a few pictures I took right after I brought the bike back.





Needless to say.... I was a pretty happy camper....



As you can see from the second pic, the bike has been down (replaced left side fairing, missing side covers, etc.) but judging by the scratches on the exhaust, he wasnt going too fast when it happened.

Two days after I got her, I had a week long conference out of town, so I just now have the time to really dive into the project. While I was out of town, I couldn't help but order a few parts including some strap-ons bars (hopefully the 41mms fit...), bar end mirrors, a side-mounted license plate holder, a clymers manual, and a 12K service kit from beemerboneyard. Ive got a tough decision to make regarding the headlight - I want to go for something different from the plain white bulb - and the seat.

 For now, however, the first order of business is taking off all the extra plastic to see what I have to work with. After that she'll get a nice thorough cleaning under the California sun and I'll start wrenching. Still looking for a set of tools that wont break the bank - while I have some general stuff, I'm already running into problems with my allen wrenches not fitting the screws that hold the saddlebags on and am sure there will be more like this the futher into the project I get.

Can't wait to get started tonight and I'll be sure to keep everyone updated.

-Jack

[Bokobob]

That's a really clean looking bike..I'll be looking forward to seeing your project unfold..

[pdg]

Still looking for a set of tools that wont break the bank - while I have some general stuff, I'm already running into problems with my allen wrenches not fitting the screws that hold the saddlebags on and am sure there will be more like this the futher into the project I get.

You shouldn't need to unscrew anything to remove just the bags - there should be a catch just behind the pillion peg, unlatch that and the bags wiggle off the bars - taking the bars off after that requires more than a finger though...

As far as I know, everything is metric. At least, it should be - unless someone has been replacing stuff with imperial fittings. That's really not a problem tool wise over here, but there I suppose you'll be running into issues. Some things might seem to fit (like a loose 1/2" will work on a 13mm hex, or a tight 1/2" will either work on a 12mm or round it off) but having the proper fitting tools makes life so much simpler and has less chance of damage.

If you do happen to get really stuck, a reasonable quality assortment of tools (enough to pretty much strip the bike) could probably be sourced for not too much money from the UK ;)

[jbmccarthy]

pdg - thanks for the wise words. I wrestled with the bags for a while yesterday only to read your post right after. I think ill try to work with what I have on hand for as long as I can as far as tools go, but a good set might not be a bad investment after walking out to this christmas tree of a dashboard this morning.



As you can see, it looks like the oil, battery, and ABS lights are on as well as the red triangle which has been very active since I bought the bike. I'm hoping that changing the fluids and filters will take care of the oil light but I have some research to do in terms of the abs. It also looks like a new battery might be in my future...

This weekend can't come soon enough.

-Jack

[pdg]

Can't say much about the ABS light function personally...

It looks like the bike isn't running in that picture so:

Battery light should be on and stay on until the engine is running - very occasionally you might need to 'blip' the throttle to make it go out (it goes out when the alternator field coils are self-exciting and the output is at or over battery voltage). It's the same system as used in most cars, not like fitted to most bikes...

The oil light should stay lit until the oil pressure has built up, with the mileage yours is showing that should happen almost as soon as the engine is turning. It is solely for oil pressure, not level.

The red triangle - this will stay on until you press both brakes levers. It will also light up while riding if the BMU detects a failed bulb (say you brake, but for whatever reason the stop light doesn't light) - sometimes mine lights up when I turn the lights on - I think I have a slightly dodgy connection because turning them off and on again usually 'fixes' it.

To be honest, if I went out and turned the key and didn't see all those lights shining at me I'd be worried ;)

[beachcomber]

41mm clip ons are too small enough !!!! Your stanchions are 41.4mm / 41.7mm depending on the make of fork - also I'm no expert on 75's, but - .4mm won't make any difference ?....... don't believe it. Your options are to ease out the bore of the clip on mounts, force them open, get 42mm clip ons and file open the gap where they clamp on the stanchions. How do I know - I've done both !

Again, depending on the forks, some have duplicated mounting holes on the lower yoke - just drop the instruments down to that position [ see my project ].

I had to fit K1100 [ 41.7mm ] forks to my K100 so I could use K1200S 5 spoke wheels and 4 pot Brembos. I wanted to keep the K100 top yoke as it has none of the fuggliness of the 1100 - however, that's 41.4mm bore. I had mine eased out professionally at a local machine shop to 41.7mm clr.- cost £5 !!

I still have a couple of sets of clip ons, and have yet to make a final decision on my bike - Renthals or Clip ons !

I made my own side panels as I had a specific picture in my mind of the style I wanted. I cut the shape profile in heavy cardboard and then got a local panel beater to make the shapes in alloy. THEN, as I was building 3 bikes at the time, I had them duplicated in GRP. The seat cowl is modified R1 and the upholstery a solo police seat.

Re: the idiot lights - while you've got the instrument pod off, disconnect the 2 multi pin connectors that go in the base . covered in corrosion / green goo ????? Either way ALL connections on the bike will benefit from a good clean and spray with switch cleaner / similar.

[pdg]

On the 75S, the instrument pod is mounted into the fairing - there is no bracketry to attach it to the yokes, unless you fab it yourself or find something off another model...

The other 'problem' is the instrument/light relationship. If you want to use a single round headlight then because of the depth you either need the clocks high up or the headlight bowl moved forward to give enough room for both - some people use the little cowl off the 75 standard, but I think it looks nasty (just my opinion on that...)

My opinion again, because it's your bike to do with as you please - I like the 'S' fairing and with a cut down screen it takes the wind off your chest that you get with a naked bike. It seems that almost everyone who 'customises' a K does it by first removing the fairing...

[beachcomber]

The best bet with the fuggly instruments - is to hide them ! Just leave the clock faces on view. On the bottom of the K100 and K1100 there are 2 small cast alloy mounting brackets - these can be swapped round to suit most applications.

The flat back 6" and 7" headlamps are one option to get the h/lamp back as far as poss. Alternatively, there are many Bikini type fairings that can be used - aftermarket and OEM. Mine was from some Chinese scooter and cost $40 [ complete with lights etc. ] !

Here's one option.

[jbmccarthy]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to give a little update on my progress this weekend. Spent about all day Saturday messing with the bike, taking off various parts and such. Here are a few pictures of the bike and some of the bits I took off it







As you can see the fairings, seat, headlight cluster, and side covers are gone. I still havent decided what im going to do in terms of the side covers, and seat, but Ive appreciated all the input regarding the instrument cluster. I want to get my headlight and handlebars on first then Ill decide what to do from there. The bike didn't start after sitting overnight initially, and I noticed a slow "tick - tock" sound coming from where the fuses are housed. Once I finally coaxed the bike into starting, I got alot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. I'll link the youtube video later, as right now it is "pending upload" thanks to youtubes copyright laws. Is this something I should be worried about?

Anyways I'm excited about beginning the customization process. However, when I went to check the battery on sunday, I ran into problems getting this connector off.



Clymers didnt give too much direction here other than sticking a screw driver through the hole in the battery cover, so I was hoping someone had a trick or a step I was missing. Thats pretty much it for now, gonna try to do as much as I can this week on it before going out of town again on Friday. Looking to sell a bunch of these parts I took off too in order to fund the rest of my bike-related purchases :)

thanks,
-Jack

[rbm]

Clymers is right.  You'll see a metal tab through the hole in the tool tray.  Take a screwdriver and push that tab backwards, towards the rear of the motorcycle.  At the same time, grasp the cable where it meets the connector and pull the cable away from the ECU box.  The rear of the connector will come free and then you can remove it completely.

[beachcomber]

Where the two "white " holes are on the bottom yoke is where I've mounted my instrument pod from. However, the clock faces are in about the same place as yours - maybe a little lower. That may well be the main difference in the two sets of forks/instruments.

[pdg]

For beachcomber...

On the 75S, the clocks are mounted on the fairing bracket to the frame, they in no way interact with the yokes or forks... Oh, they also sit a good foot or so and out forwards.

[bocutter Ed]

Thusly ... ?

[beachcomber]

Thusly ... ?

Ahhh got it - that monster construction bolts to the headstock "fairing" bracket mount [ K100 / K1100 ].

Wouldn't mind betting that the two lower holes will match up with the K100 /1100 instrument pod. That method puts the clocks right up against the stanchions - ie quite a bit further back.

There are many interchangeable parts in the 100 / 1100 range but the 75 appears to be a little on it's own ! Even it's frame is unique to that model [ front bit at least ].

[pdg]

That fine shapely bit of plastic bolts directly to the headstock tube - and the same bolts hold the steering damper too...

There's also a fair bit of parts cross-compatibility between the 75 and larger models - the sole difference in the frame is the angle of the front down tubes (by all accounts) - the 100/1100 have to have steeper tubes to accomodate the largely superfluous 'extra' cylinder, also known as the vibration inducer  :neener:

To be honest, there's also a fair whack of R series parts that bolt straight on as well.