Author Topic: Polishing A Turd (Read 36681 times)

Finnigan · « **on:** July 15, 2014, 04:46:09 PM »

Figured I'd start my thread here. Here's how I got my 1990 K100LT

Finnigan · « **Reply #1 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:46:58 PM »

First thing I did was change out broken dash bulbs with red LEDs

Finnigan · « **Reply #2 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:48:49 PM »

Then I put in 4-hole injectors: better throttle response

Finnigan · « **Reply #3 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:49:50 PM »

Then I put on bigger headers with a supertrapp muffler

Finnigan · « **Reply #4 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:50:46 PM »

Next was removing the ass-ugly front and putting some tracker bars on it

Finnigan · « **Reply #5 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:51:32 PM »

I just finished putting new front suspension on her

Finnigan · « **Reply #6 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:53:04 PM »

Wanted to put on this rear wheel

Finnigan · « **Reply #7 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:53:35 PM »

Had this problem...

Finnigan · « **Reply #8 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:54:23 PM »

Wheels before and after

Finnigan · « **Reply #9 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:56:37 PM »

Bought this

Jeff Sichoe · « **Reply #10 on:** July 15, 2014, 05:10:18 PM »

Loving those new wheels!
Is the Supertrapp nice and loud? :)

Looking real good so far man!

Finnigan · « **Reply #11 on:** July 15, 2014, 05:37:58 PM »

Appreciate that, na just throaty. I can only tell the difference when it bounces off a building i'm riding next to

pdg · « **Reply #12 on:** July 15, 2014, 08:36:43 PM »

What did you decide to do about the rear wheel misalignment 'problem' in the end?

I put an R1100RS rear wheel on mine and it's out too - I ignored it...

The only difference in handling I've noticed is it's WAY better with decent rubber rather than what was on the original hoops.

Finnigan · « **Reply #13 on:** July 15, 2014, 10:33:23 PM »

I'm in the process of converting to a paralever final drive, that will cure the offset issue

pdg · « **Reply #14 on:** July 16, 2014, 08:59:23 PM »

Paralever *should* do it...... And it's prettier.

I never considered it an 'issue' on mine, mainly because of the amount of shaft drive bikes that don't have the wheels in line from the factory. I can honestly say I've never noticed that my wheels aren't in line, it tracks straight with no hands and everything :riding:

Finnigan · « **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2014, 10:49:54 AM »

Thats a relief to know, I had no idea it was common for shaft drives to have misaligned front and rears! If I can't notice a difference I'm going to leave mine as is. Do you have pics of yours?

pdg · « **Reply #16 on:** July 18, 2014, 07:35:31 PM »

Apparently I never took a picture right from the back, and it's dark out now - I'll grab one tomorrow though.

It doesn't look hugely different to how yours is, a bit because I've 'only' put the 4.5" wheel on, plus I omitted the spacer ring (which moved it right a whole 2mm)....

jacksdad1963 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 18, 2014, 09:11:32 PM »

Can I fit better injectors to my K1100LT ?
Mines done 93000 and I'm going to give it a fettle this winter! :2thumbup:

pdg · « **Reply #18 on:** July 19, 2014, 09:11:15 AM »

Here's mine...

With this wheel...

I know it's a 75, but the arm parts are the same...

How does yours fit clearance wise with that tyre? I have about 3-4mm between the tyre and swingarm, and I had to 'modify' the centrestand stop on the exhaust to get it to fit - I'm running an 18" now though. I've got to get a new rear tyre and because of what I've chosen I think I'm going to have to put the spacer back in and move it a little further to the left again.

And for the injectors jacksdad is on about, yes... You can either pore over spec lists and see what is cross references from car applications and such, or you could phone an injection specialist - there is much more choice than 'they' would have you believe ;)

jacksdad1963 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 19, 2014, 03:59:58 PM »

On my K1100LT: I fitted a 150/70 x 17 Battlax BT023 to the standard rear wheel without a problem, bike rides like a dream with the matching 110 front BT023.
I've also tried a K1100RS 4.5" rim, with a 160/60 x 18 battlax, fits fine once again, handles great, but I needed to deflate the tyre to get it past the exhaust: no problem as I carry a tyre pump!
Thinking of trying the RS front wheel next, with a 120/70 x 17 Battlax...tbh I haven't noticed any difference with the rear wheel/tyres, gues I need to get the 17" RS rim fitted with a new tyre and try it!
Just why did the K1100LT and RS have such different wheel & tyre size differences? they are pretty much the same bike... :dunno2:

pdg · « **Reply #20 on:** July 19, 2014, 05:28:31 PM »

The difference in tyre sizes is the same reason the R1100RS has a different wheel to the R1100S, it's because.......

It's an R series wheel on mine, probably identical part number to a K series, but hey - that's what it came from. When I bought it it was described as a 17", when it turned up it was an 18". Initially disappointed but quite quickly realised it opend up a fair few options for A/T tyres instead, so it's staying (for now at least - unless a spokey GS wheel turns up cheap). I have to take the exhaust off to sensibly get the wheel fitted, never mind, it's only a couple more bolts.

Finnigan · « **Reply #21 on:** July 20, 2014, 06:54:59 PM »

The 4.5" rim doesn't have much of a noticeable offset, I'll try and put my wheel on tomorrow and take a pic for reference too

jacksdad1963 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 21, 2014, 01:48:00 PM »

The 4.5" with a 160 tyre fits pretty much centrally on by K1100, certainly no more offset than the standard wheel, I've left in the packing shim which keeps the tyre away from the swing arm.
Only problem is the tyre won't go past the exhaust unless I deflate it: not a problem as I carry a small compressor (£4.00 from the local cheap store!)
I need to replace all the exhaust studs and nuts as they are corroded beyond help, otherwise I could remove the exhaust. Just a pity its a one piece system otherwise I could of course just remove the silencer :2thumbup:
I converted the aux. power sockets to standard size automotive/marine ones, which have waterproof caps, the one in the radio box was already a standard car type anyway, but now I've got 3 to use!

Finnigan · « **Reply #23 on:** July 21, 2014, 02:32:16 PM »

It's not easy but you can take just the silencer off, loosen the bolts holding on the clamps for the headers. Although I think it would be easier taking it off completely

jacksdad1963 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 21, 2014, 07:44:33 PM »

Its all one piece, I've looked :2thumbup:

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Author Topic: Polishing A Turd (Read 36681 times)