What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[rbm]

So, you had your multimeter on DC Volts, measuring the voltage on the battery with the black lead on the -ve terminal and the red lead on the +ve terminal.  Then you moved the multimeter leads so that the red lead was on the output of the alternator and the black lead on the bike frame.  You didn't touch the multimeter so it was continuing to measure DC Volts.

If that's the scenario, then it wasn't the multimeter that has caused the problem you are experiencing.  There is something else going on.  Even if you somehow blew the regulator in the alternator, it won't prevent the bike from starting.  To isolate the alternator as a potential problem, remove it from the circuit (pull the plug) and try starting.  If it still won't start, you've eliminated the alternator as a potential cause.

I suggest you start a separate thread for this problem rather than continue to diagnose in this thread.

[enb54]

enb54,
I was having issues with the battery staying charged, so I was testing the battery for V when at idle and when the motor rpm was increased to 3000. No difference was seen, so I concluded that the alternator wasn't charging. So at that point for some unknown reason I decided to insert the red lead onto the red wire coming out of the connector attached to the alternator and place the negative lead to the bikes frame. Nothing came up on the alternator. I them turned the bike off, and since then the bike won't start. I'm stumped.

Supershooter

I would guess that your alternator was not charging the battery, so you should measure the battery voltage and if low charge with an external charger. DO NOT try to start your machine with a low battery, as you will likely damage the contacts on the starter relay, aggravating your problem. As rbm (Robert) suggests, likely you should start a new thread in this (Motobrick Workshop) forum. Good luck, most of these electrical problems have been very well documented here...

Edit: Jan 26 1034 MST... Search "alternator" here at motobrick or you can go to http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.html#Section_2 which is from a hotrodding forum and will give you the complete lowdown on the need for exciter current, remembering that all alternators do work the same way but implementation (wiring, voltage regulation) may be accomplished in different ways.

[BlitzenGruv]

I rode the brick out to work this afternoon, not to work but to tease the poor slobs putting in OT.
When I got ready to leave the key would not rotate to the ON position. I tried it many times and got some WD from inside. Eventually it worked.
Another thing for my to-do list, rebuild that switch and get a spare key.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Thanks for the reminder, Blitz.  I have a sticky key for one of my bikes that I should do something about.  Mine sticks in the ignition so I can't pull it out.  Has made for a couple of nervewracking fuel stops when the bike was running on fumes.

[Martin]

I carry a spare flat key in my wallet and another one hidden on the bike. I did however have a problem opening my fuel cap while trying to refuel after running on fumes. It took a lot of key jiggling and cap pushing to get it to release. I got it home and did some maintenance on it, clean and lube. I'm pretty sure it had a clean and lube about 18 months ago.   :dunno
 
Regards Martin.

[BlitzenGruv]

Kinda scary. It's not like I can get the thing running by shorting three wire together. Those British bikes are so easy to steal.

[beemrdon]

What did I do today..........

Replaced both front footpeg rubbers.

Also, ordered a new bar end weight cover. Present one will be destroyed while taking off the left side bar end weight and grip to see if the little wire which wraps around the handlebar, and is the heat source for the heated grip, is broken somewhere...
Does this count???...bought a pair of Scorpion Covert riding jeans and added the knee pads (sold seperately, of course).       :riding:

[Snowman]

This morning . . .


Fired her up for the first time since thanksgiving. Typical S.Dakota winter, rarely above freezing, lots of -10F -20F and she fired right up and she hasn't been on a battery tender, for a month! impressed! Normally it is always on a battery tender but my brother in law forgot to plug it in after he borrowed my tender for a few days, and I feared the worse.


Once the weather warms up I will start on the fluid change ritual and its time for valve check and TB sinc. I had put it up for sale but its way too good a bike for the money people wanna give so I'm keeping it.

[rbm]

Paid a visit to the painter's today and picked up my freshly repainted tank, valve cover and crankcase cover.  They look gorgeous. 

Over the past 4 years of so, the paint around filler cap on the tank has turned an ugly brown rust colour and started to lift and peel. This was all happening at the water drainage hole.  Very strange, as there is no steel in that part of the tank to rust.  So the painter repaired the area and resprayed.  The same problem occurred with my gas cap, which was chrome painted.  It too lifted so I had the cap polished.

The covers had also been chrome painted.  This painted chrome finish did not last as I had been promised, so I picked up a crankcase and valve cover set which I had chromed.  The painter added the highlights.  So, when the warmer weather arrives, I'll be out in the garage replacing the covers and tank.

[CNRED]

ROBERT,
  That's gonna look fantastic.  Couple of pics when you're done?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Rob, I have had the same problem with discoloring paint around the filler.  Apparently, when you had the tank painted they used a 1K acrylic clear.  A lot of shops seem to be using these clears for reasons of cost and the hassle of using catalyzed finishes.  Unfortunately, these clear coats seem to have problems with modern oxygenated fuels.  A little research around the web will reveal that this is not an isolated problem.

The solution is to find a shop that uses 2k clearcoats.  That is what the factory uses and is why the factory paint jobs don't have paint problems around the filler.

[rbm]

Thanks guys. 









The original painter assured me that he used 2K paint on my bike.  I'm 100% certain the base colour was 2K because I supplied it to him; I'm assuming he used 2K clear.  In any case, the paint discoloured and peeled.  This painter I recently used has an exceptional reputation in Toronto as being one of the best.  He has informed me that he repaired all the damage and used a 2K epoxy primer/sealer followed by water-based 2K base colour and clear.  We discussed the damage when I picked up the tank and he thinks there was leakage around the seal between the tank skin and filler cap base.  This interface is now sealed with the epoxy primer/sealer coat so time will tell if the same damage returns.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I agree on the seam between the tank shell and filler base.  One of my bikes had the tank painted by the previous owner, and has failed right at that seam.  Ironically, the paint failure has exposed the factory paint underneath which is still intact.

I have two tanks to do now, and I'm looking at spending some time thoroughly cleaning that seam and possibly sealing it with JB weld which appears to have good fuel resistance.  Together with a good cleaning of the filler cap mounting surface, a new gasket and 2k urethane clear I hope to have paint that won't fail there a second time.

[beemrdon]

What did I did to my motobrick today?

I changed the clutch cable. Luckily it gave out in the garage. It took me 2 hours to change it. The next time, if there is one, it will take me 20 minutes max.

[John Lang]

Learning curves are gratifying. Did you tape the new cable to the old one and then pull it through or did you go to the bother of removing the fuel tank?

[BlitzenGruv]

Just rode a bit to get fuel out of the tank.
Went out to Ace to get some ABS cement for fairing repairs. I've read that one can use a soldering iron to 'weld' the cracks and use ABS cement as filler. Sounds like a good plan. All I need to do is match the paint.
I also plan to renew the intake bushings, so I need the fairing off anyway.

Bike ran well with no problem shifting (except once at a stop light when I instinctively moved my right foot up to engage first.)

[Inge K.]

Went out to Ace to get some ABS cement for fairing repairs. I've read that one can use a soldering iron to 'weld' the cracks and use ABS cement as filler.

Your fairing isn't made of ABS, but pressure molded glass reinforced polyester.
Look for kits for repairing this kind of boats.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I posted some stuff on how I repair my fairings a while back.  You might find it handy.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9018.msg87752.html#msg87752

[BlitzenGruv]

Good post, thanks for the link. Plenty of boat shops here. I should be able to find supplies.
Would it be best to repair the fairing in place on the bike to avoid flexing upon re-installation?

[beemrdon]

John Lang...No I did not. Once the gas tank, seat and side covers are out of the way, most of it is visible. The only somewhat difficult part was to slip the accordian rubber through the cable guide hole in the frame. I used armorall.



................86 degrees and sunny in Death Valley Friday...

[holmesy]

I bought one :)


1994 K1100LT


Now to figure out how to pull the bloody thing apart to change the fork seals. I have a sneaking suspicion the fairing won't be going back on. Nor will the bars
Nor the instruments
and the forks will probably end up through the top clamp (if thats even possible)
Flame away, I'm a big boy.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Blitz, it would be best to work on the fairing parts away from the bike.  The repair process can get messy with dust and dripping resin.  Do it on a bench where it can be easy to hold the part while sanding or applying the glass.  When the repair is finished, and you paint it, you'll want to be able to control the overspray.

I would also suggest that before you start to work on your fairing, you do a little practice mixing resin and applying the glass to a piece of plywood.  I can't emphasize how important it is to measure your resin and to carefully count the drops of hardener.  That is where 99.99% of the problems with doing glass work come from.

Once you learn how to do these repairs and find a source for a good match in touch up paint you will experience the liberating freedom from fear of dropping your bike.

[Snowman]

The fork seals on a K1100 are some of the easiest to replace. Basic motorcycle forks.

[billday]

I have a sneaking suspicion the fairing won't be going back on. Nor will the bars
Nor the instruments
and the forks will probably end up through the top clamp (if thats even possible)
Flame away, I'm a big boy.

It will be hard to ride without handlebars. But, give it a try and let us know (with pictures).

[Martin]

Holmsey be aware that pushing the forks through the triple tree will alter the handling. It will reduce the lean angle and  also makes putting it onto the centre problematic.
Regards Martin.