What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Laitch]

Jack I'm wiring it to a flasher can and getting it a blue cover. Also going to wire my 140 Db air horn to the flasher can.

A headlight modulator will enhance the whole array, too. If you can't find a decent siren from Alibaba, try using a slide whistle held by wire on the handlebar and played by means of a flex-straw crammed into one of your helmet's front ventilation ports while the cruise-control is activated. It's easy enough with an Arai.

I hope you won't be so self-centered in your newfound easy riding that you won't take some time to sternly lecture mobile phone users. Think of the rest of us! Keep up the good work!

[Martin]

Geez Laitch your not just a pretty face, I'll order a siren. Although a mate has a couple that he got from the recycle (Dump). One was US made really loud off a fire engine. I wonder if I could  also give out on the spot fines for anti motorcycle behavior, it would supplement my income. Thanks VNM I don't think they are applicable in QLD I'll look into it. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin (alias the Night Rider).

[whosyurdaddy]

  Just got a chance to change my fuel filter , turns out it was a BMW filter with 10/11/98 date . Thats hard to believe it held up this long . Oh well out with the old in with the new .

[Chaos]

Friend of mine had a K75T with the 2 driving lights mounted on the forks.  He wired one to come on with the high beam, the other with the low beam. Them when he wanted to pass someone he just switched between high and low beams and the offending vehicle pulled over!  BRILLIANT!!!!

[The Dude]

The toggling lights are genius.
With all the "legal"aspects covered this could be passed off as innocently helping yourself.Some adjustments at road worthy compliance time to keep the questions to a minimum is likely needed.
It would be good if the lights made a lot of noise,too.
I know that works really well using the Guzzi's throttle(with a skyward lurch of the front wheel) it does scatter them more than part but Moses would still be impressed.

[kryder]

I didn't do it today but I recently installed Progressive springs on the front forks and I added some K100 knee pads using 3M spray on glue. K75 specific knee pads seem to be much harder to come by. About the same time I added a couple of handguards that are BMW specific. If one looks closely at the photo the Progressive decal is visible. I have owned this moto for six years and keep tinkering with it, having installed a Corbin Gunfighter and a Reynolds rack on the last go round. Next? A new shock and new fuel lines along with replacement of the brake lines as well. That will probably about do it.

[Hilltopper46]

First, I had the welder out to fix tomato cages, so I fixed a engine guard bracket that I knew was broken as well.

[Hilltopper46]

Second, I was under the bike and decided to work on the exhaust, and one thing led to another and pretty soon I had it off the bike.  So I rigged up a board with holes in it to jig it for the welder.


Of course, this meant that I had to remove the bracket repaired in the previous post.

[riots100]

So I rigged up a board with holes in it to jig it for the welder.

What is the hole diameter and spacing for this exhaust jig you made?

[Hilltopper46]

What is the hole diameter and spacing for this exhaust jig you made?

From memory, the hole diameter is 1.524 inches and the spacing is between 2-15/16 and 2-31/32 apart. The exhaust is at the welder now so cannot remeasure.


I highly recommend you make your own measurements when you remove your exhaust.


The welder was complimentary of the jig.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I took the Moby Brick out this morning to get some coffee,  burn up some no-corn, and attach some bugs to the fairing.  YeeHaaaa...

[K1300S]

For no real reason,  acquired another K75s.  Twin to the one I already had.

started the refresh on the "Evil Twin".
replaced FD fluid, trans fluid, engine oil, fork oil, brake fluid, brake pads, etc.

found the bike had a fresh progressive 465 rear shock and progressive springs up front.  :-)

replacing fuel hoses this weekend.  might be taking it to a track day in two weeks....

and thanks to Johnny...now have a spacer for rear wheel.

[know_fear]

I gave my '85 a total refresh but new paint makes for a lot of work.
It's so nice I'm afraid to get it out for a ride!

[K1300S]

sweet! 


so nice it DESERVES to go out for a ride...

[MCRyder]

Both lowers are back on.  I forgot what a bit of a pain it was to get the rear/right fastener clip back on the air box.  About to order the Clearview shield.  The work's down to a clutch spline lube, TB synch, and fluids.  Still haven't decided if I want to replace the odomer and trip meter cogs myself or farm it out.  $85 if I do, $200 for the shop's work.  The Top of the Rockies rally isn't for another month, so time is on my side.

Any comments on fork fluid viscosity?  Been a long time since I've done a K75 fork.  The former owner told me PS fork springs were installed.  But it doesn't feel like it compared to my other 75's with PS springs.  No big deal, a firmer feeling oil weight will do.

[K1300S]

Both lowers are back on.  I forgot what a bit of a pain it was to get the rear/right fastener clip back on the air box.  About to order the Clearview shield.  The work's down to a clutch spline lube, TB synch, and fluids.  Still haven't decided if I want to replace the odomer and trip meter cogs myself or farm it out.  $85 if I do, $200 for the shop's work.  The Top of the Rockies rally isn't for another month, so time is on my side.

Any comments on fork fluid viscosity?  Been a long time since I've done a K75 fork.  The former owner told me PS fork springs were installed.  But it doesn't feel like it compared to my other 75's with PS springs.  No big deal, a firmer feeling oil weight will do.

i use honda 10w fork oil.  works well with the PS in one K75s and the Racetek springs in the other K75s.  key is to use the right amount.  it does not take very much less than spec to make the front feel really soft.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I'm learning that a fair number of brick owners are using regular Automatic Transmission Fluid successfully.   I used to use it back in the day in my enduro bikes and will be using it in my bricks starting this Fall.   I agree that the correct amount is critical.  Not enough and the forks will top out, and too much can blow the seals out.

[The Dude]

Some known tight inlet valve clearences got me back in there swapping shims around.Tight 6 thou feels wasn't too bad and this wasn't the reason my motor is running bad.(I've been thrashing her on 6 for a while.)
  Reintroducing an old shim,probably( must have been or a mates old one) from an exhaust valve and moving two original shims got all three inlets at a loose 6 thou"(7 thou) will get two 2.45 mm and one 2.40 mm shims to get my 8 thou gaps back and continue my milage towards my million Kms.yeha.Got to be good fuel to preserve the valves this far.The exhausts have been 12thou for decades.
  Plugs are about 15 years old now and looking bloody good at the business end.The little screw ons are corroded badly and new ones are part of my discounting these from my inquiries.


I am doing a purge of niggles,suspects and peace of mind inquests into why she woke up reluctant to run sweetly a few weeks back.I am relishing the situation as I slowly get my act together.The old girl is demanding my critical attention after all these years.I owe her this time.

[Hilltopper46]

I finished putting the exhaust back on the bike.  I was tired of waiting for the rubber donut for the rear hanger, so I bought a rubber stopper and made my own by trimming it to shape on the wood lathe.  The welded exhaust fit up into the engine with no issues.  I used super glue to hold the gaskets up in the holes while I wiggled the exhaust into place.


Then I took it into town to run errands and fill with gas.  I thought I was noticing some hesitation on the last ride or two that I took before I removed the exhaust system.  Then today it was really bad - it seems to be heat related.  It runs fine for the first 5 miles or so, then begins to surge.  It seems worse on partial throttle.


I brought it home and removed the tank (that was easy) and pulled apart all the electrical connectors I could find and sprayed cleaner in them and replugged them back together and then put a new NAPA Gold 3032 fuel filter on it.  No joy - after 5 miles it started surging and actually died at a stop sign.


I think the next thing I will do is replace the rubber bits on/near the throttle bodies. I'm frustrated, but quite thankful for this resource.

[MIbrick]

Believe it or not, I swapped out the standard seat for the OEM low seat. It took 3.5 hours or so just to get the effing adhesive from the old tank pads off the tank. And the pads took some of the paint with them.  :bang-head:   Then I went for a blast across the highway to drop a Father's Day card off for my dad. Low seat is nice.   :2thumbup:


Edit:  Anyone know if a locksmith can re-key the seat lock to work with my original ignition key? Not super happy about having a separate key for the seat.

[riots100]

I thought I was noticing some hesitation on the last ride or two that I took before I removed the exhaust system.  Then today it was really bad - it seems to be heat related.  It runs fine for the first 5 miles or so, then begins to surge.  It seems worse on partial throttle.

I had something similar happen about a year ago.  It would happen on hot days, after riding the bike for a while. I found that the fuel was probably boiling in the fuel line that runs from the tank to the fuel rail.  That particular line comes very close to one of the main radiator hoses, which can get hot.  I had replaced the old fuel line with some generic, fuel injected rated fuel hose from the auto supply store.  The generic fuel hose did not have the pre-formed bends like the stock one does and as a result it came much closer to that hot radiator hose.  I wrapped it in heat tape and tied back the hose with a zip tie.


Just like that, the problem went away.  I ordered the pre-formed, stock line and replaced the generic.  Problem has yet to reappear.

[Martin]

With a low fuel level and running in traffic in QLD summers I had vaporization problems. I partially fixed the problem with reflective insulation under the tank. I think a full fix will come if I insulate the fuel lines behind the air box. A fuel cooler can also be fitted as per TMG.
Regards Martin.

[Hilltopper46]

I had something similar happen about a year ago.  It would happen on hot days, after riding the bike for a while. I found that the fuel was probably boiling in the fuel line that runs from the tank to the fuel rail.

With a low fuel level and running in traffic in QLD summers I had vaporization problems. I partially fixed the problem with reflective insulation under the tank. I think a full fix will come if I insulate the fuel lines behind the air box. A fuel cooler can also be fitted as per TMG.
Regards Martin.

Thank you for these replies - the PO has moved the fuel filter from inside the tank to the fuel line that runs down to the rail.  I noticed yesterday that the entire tank was quite warm after a very short ride (about 7 miles from the gas station, to the post office, then the hardware store and then to home) and wondered if something could be warming the fuel.  I'm thinking the metal filter allows a lot of heat transfer into the fuel as it passes through, and as I understand it, recirculates to the tank.


I'll insulate the filter and ride it to see what that does for me.

[Laitch]

I'll insulate the filter and ride it to see what that does for me.

Consider restoring the fuel filter to its original location in the tank. That's where it belongs. Gryph's fuel cooler type and installation is a proven and effective way to deal with fuel cooling concerns.

[riots100]

+1 on restoring the fuel system to stock. Anything else, you are treating the symptoms rather that working towards the cure.