What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Kool!  (pun intended)

[lysy40]

in the last few months, cleaned, repaired, lined the tank, fixed the level sensor, replace all the gas lines, replaced filter, put in a new fan, fixed the fairing sag issue. still have a lot to the list. wish i had more time... this weekend mainly working on the fan replacement. it was a tight fit but it worked.

Thanks to all the folks here for their help and knowledge.

Yesterday I bought the same fan

[Vespa no more]

Engine is on the bench and upside down (thank goodness for a 1/2 ton pulley and an RSJ.
Have pulled the output shaft to cure "the rattle".
While in there, I will probably do front and rear (output shaft) bearings.
Unfortunately had to buy some circlip pliers before I can progress further and dismantle the shaft.
Three jaw pullers need grinding down.
Water pump impeller shaft broke. S'pose I should be thankful it went in the shed and NOT out in the boonies.
Have a parts bike ready to donate bits and pieces (assuming they are serviceable)


Anyone found a cheaper source of engine mounting rubbers (esp Australia). Motobins and motorwerks UK are out at the moment.
Does replacing 32 year old mounting rubbers really get ride of some of the vibration?


Regards


Guy

[Hilltopper46]

• Tightened the exhaust header nuts.
• Remounted the LH engine guard - gonna need to work on that again sometime when I have the welder out.
• Troubleshooted (troubleshot?) the engine oil pressure light - needs a new switch.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Finally finished putting a real cruise control on the RT.  Rostra 250-1223.  Hope to do a test flight tomorrow. 

[johnny]

greetings...

last week i drained the cooling system and recharged it with 40% techron on a buy 1 getts another free deal and 60% denatured water of course...

the tiors were good and the brakes were fair... butts i sprung a leak down there...

was whacking and chopping and sliding in my own techron... butts i figger the yeeeehaaaaaa would end when
the unskilled in my mirrors commence to highsiding trying to following my line late apexing the driffless and all...

so i looked up my vin... looked up my hose number 17121460266 and ordered it local...  picked it up and gonna do the dirty work on this rainy day in the chee.. i did all that from following the directions at the oem parts button at the top... wow..

more later...

pin hoe leak at the thumb... busted hoe clamp upon reassembly... filled it up with 60% seafoam and 40% carbonated mineral water... now its steaming like a moe...

moving on to oil change... i gotts 1qt sae20 conventional 1qt sae30 synthetic 1 qt sae40 conventional 1 qt sae50 synthetic... will end up with multi viscosity blend for continuous bumping of the rev limiter...

j o

[Laitch]

moving on to oil change... i gotts 1qt sae20 conventional 1qt sae30 synthetic 1 qt sae40 conventional 1 qt sae50 synthetic... will end up with multi viscosity blend for continuous bumping of the rev limiter...

Switch to lubricant-free lubricant with guarana. You'll never look back.

[Vespa no more]

 :clap:

[milq]

Cranked mine up today for the first time in a month. Fired right up, which was nice. Took it for a bit of a ride, maybe 35 miles, and enjoyed the linear power delivery....but....have to say that this bike (K100RT) is absolute misery to ride above 60 degrees F....my legs were absolutely cooking.

[Laitch]

. . . have to say that this bike (K100RT) is absolute misery to ride above 60 degrees F....my legs were absolutely cooking.

The pdf in this post and the thread itself has some suggestions for you, milq. It is in the Master List of the Repair Guidance section here, along with a lot of other useful stuff.

[K1300S]

Rode it 275mi in mountains of North Carolina.   Lots of YEE HA!

[mw074]

Try a set of " K Guards." They are amazing for cutting down the heat.

[Chaos]

i gotts 1qt sae20 conventional 1qt sae30 synthetic 1 qt sae40 conventional 1 qt sae50 synthetic..

j o

Ten, twenty, thirty, forty, fifty or more
The Bloody Red Baron was rolling out the score
Eighty men died trying to end that spree
Of the Bloody Red Baron of Germany

[Supershooter]

Saturday- worked on putting forks back together, new seals installed. Also installed a power source for a Garmin since my speedo doesn't work. Parts came in the mail

Sunday- filled the forks with oil, washed parts for assembly, reinstalled forks, wheel, fender, brakes. Pretty excited about completing this since it was a new self taught skill.

Tried to start the bike but the battery had lost its charge over the last two months. I hope there's not a slow draw.

Opened the master cylinder on the handle bar, the brake fluid was a chocolate color and the gaiter came out in pieces.

Eventually I'll get it road worthy

Supershooter

[Supershooter]

Saturday- worked on putting forks back together, new seals installed. Also installed a power source for a Garmin since my speedo doesn't work. Parts came in the mail

Sunday- filled the forks with oil, washed parts for assembly, reinstalled forks, wheel, fender, brakes. Pretty excited about completing this since it was a new self taught skill.

Tried to start the bike but the battery had lost its charge over the last two months. I hope there's not a slow draw.

Opened the master cylinder on the handle bar, the brake fluid was a chocolate color and the gaiter came out in pieces.

Eventually I'll get it road worthy

Supershooter

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[milq]

The pdf in this post and the thread itself has some suggestions for you, milq. It is in the Master List of the Repair Guidance section here, along with a lot of other useful stuff.

Many thanks!

[Vespa no more]

Sharpshooter

You sure that's not sump oil in the MC?
That's the dirtiest fluid I've seen - other than NO fluid


Enjoy the victory once you have ironed out all the issues and find yourself whoofing down the road.


Interesting colour!


Regards


Guy

[jj4hm]

I replaced the fan motor so now I can drive below 30 mph without worrying about overheating.   The Spal fan looks interesting but I already had the replacement Bosch motor ready to go.  I also changed the air filter and did an oil change while I was at it.

[Martin]

You have more chance of keeping the Bosch one healthy if you put an override switch on it and test it at least once a week. OEM fans have a tendency to seize from lack of use and/or lack of lubrication. I've had a aftermarket fully sealed one on mine for at least 18 years and occasionally exercise it, it's never missed a beat.
Regards Martin.

[jj4hm]

Yeah, I considered doing the override switch but needed to get the bike back up and running quickly since it's pretty much my only transportation this summer while I get the front end of my car sorted.  I do think the switch is a good idea however.   Time to take the bike out for a spin and some  :yes  before an appointment later this afternoon. 

[MIbrick]

Dropped the belly fairing, lifted the bike, took off the wheels and had new Shinko Tour Masters mounted. Figured while I was at it I'd clean, inspect and Staburags-ize the rear splines. With only 6500 miles on it, the final drive is in pretty nice shape (took pictures anyway). Surprising to me was that it was lubed with some red snot that seems to have flung everywhere in there. 


Final drive back on, shock re-hung, wheels mounted, everything torqued to specs. Figured I haven't ridden in four days, might as well go for a rip. It was too short at 16 or 17 miles, but I really like the way these tires feel compared to the Metzler Laser (not Lasertech, man. date of 2000) that was on the front and Lasertech (man. date of 2014) on the back.


Couple quick questions if anyone feels like answering:


1) Should I have put copper anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts and the final drive mounting bolts? It didn't look to me like there had been any on there prior ,so I didn't.


2) I put the tire pressures at 38 front and 40 rear. This was within the ranges specified in the Clymer manual (Table 2 of the Maintenance section). Is there a 'recommended' pressure for one-up riding based on the collective wisdom of this group?  I found the tires to be very responsive, the ride wasn't harsh and cornering was more crisp than with the old tires.


3) WTF is the correct procedure for removing the side panels?  I managed to bust the rear pin of the right one and the u-shaped hook off the left one.  Thank g-d for JB Weld. I tried by pulling out at the top front where that big knob goes in to the rubber grommet, then sliding backwards. Is there a better way?

[jj4hm]

I pull out the top mounting point, then down slightly to disengage the U shaped mount.   That will allow you to slide then panel forward to disengage the rear pin.  I always lube the rubber parts with soapy water on reassembly to avoid breaking anything.   That's always worked for me without trouble. 

[Filmcamera]

1) Should I have put copper anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts and the final drive mounting bolts? It didn't look to me like there had been any on there prior ,so I didn't.


2) I put the tire pressures at 38 front and 40 rear. This was within the ranges specified in the Clymer manual (Table 2 of the Maintenance section). Is there a 'recommended' pressure for one-up riding based on the collective wisdom of this group?  I found the tires to be very responsive, the ride wasn't harsh and cornering was more crisp than with the old tires.

1) I always use copper anti seize on pretty much everything - bear in mind any torque setting is based on a lubricated fastener, a dry bolt will often fool the torque wrench into thinking it is tighter than it actually is. Brake calipers are especially important because of the heat generated by the brakes.

2) Chris Harris recommends 40 front and 44 rear, that is what I run and it seems to increase the tire life, but 38 40 should be fine, maybe go higher is you do lots of slab riding.

3) Can't help you there, I have a low seat model so no side panels...

[Laitch]

1). . . bear in mind any torque setting is based on a lubricated fastener . . .

Where did you get that information?

[Filmcamera]

I got it from Delboy's Garage - go to approx 12 minutes into the video