What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[billday]

Ordered new tyres (should be here wednesday).  replaced the tail light.  Installed polished headlight lens.

I need to figure out which kit to get to rewire the headlight.  Those stock wires are scary skinny.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html#h4single

[herseyb]

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html#h4single

Ordered, thanks!

 I also reduced my rebound dampening 4 clicks after reading the ohlins manual, and ordered the seal that goes between the gas tank and the cap assembly.   

Mine has chunks missing, and the tank is chalky looking underneath...   Gotta figure out how to clean that off without getting the AL salts in the tank.  I can hear the tank wheezing after it gets up to pressure when i turn off the engine.

[beemuker]

Last time I rode I noticed gas wetting the side of the engine! .  Finally got it sorted out. Luckily it was just the gas line going to the injectors . It had a tiny split up by the tank, Went to NAPA and bought a foot of high pressure line and I'm back in the saddle without a flamethrower.

[beemuker]

Last time I rode I noticed gas wetting the side of the engine! .  Finally got it sorted out. Luckily it was just the gas line going to the injectors . It had a tiny split up by the tank, Went to NAPA and bought a foot of high pressure line and I'm back in the saddle without a flamethrower.

[billday]

New Westco battery.

Want to give a shout out to Beemer Boneyard. I placed my order around 4:00pm, it shipped that afternoon and I had my new battery in less than 24 hours via UPS ground. Not everyone is as close to them as me, but they really take care of things. Plus (for all you new K-bike lovers), if they say a service part will fit your machine, it will fit your machine.

[MonkeyMcBean]

Last time I rode I noticed gas wetting the side of the engine! .  Finally got it sorted out. Luckily it was just the gas line going to the injectors . It had a tiny split up by the tank, Went to NAPA and bought a foot of high pressure line and I'm back in the saddle without a flamethrower.

Don't forget the other two gas lines going to the fuel pressure regulator!

[Scott_]

In the last couple of day managed to get the new PR3 mounted up and installed.
Like last time I tried to mount a 150/70, I couldn't get the tire bead to seat. Ended up taking it to a local bike shop(again) and was able to get it seated in about 5 minutes.........

Moved the center stand spacers and yes it is easier now to put it up on the stand. BUT, since the stand mount is now approx 1/4" closer to the transmission, it also raised the side stand as much so the lean angle is just a tad more as well.......
Now I suppose it's time to make a little spacer block for the bottom foot of the side stand to bring the lean angle back up, without interfering with the center stand when all folded up.

[chico]

Rear drive spline and drive shaft lube. First time ever doing it.  :2thumbup:

[bizzaro]

Mounted and balanced a new front tire.  Battlax T30's front and rear.  Now I have a matching set.  I did the rear tire about three weeks ago. :riding:

[Glacial]

Replaced the battery with an Odyssey PC680. Nice easy job. Previous battery had let me down a few times, not retaining charge.

[MonkeyMcBean]

Bought some bungees for an upcoming trip. Reinstalled saddlebags, Put some stuff on to see how it fits. brake system flush. Took a careful look at tires. The wobble I had was from uneven wear on the front, that'll have to be replaced soon. Rode around town after dark. Saw a deer ten feet from the road, rode home on high alert.

[bizzaro]

Took up the throttle lash.  I swear it had 3/16 of an inch of play before! Really tough to handle at low balancing speeds.(manuvering in parking lots etc.) I took it all out but just made sure it runs down to Idle not throttle.  Love it. Curiously I had to shorten the cable sheath to do it. Usually it is the opposite?? Anyway it worked.  And I am loving the new set of Battlax T30s!

[bizzaro]

Hey Chico,
How tough was the spline job for first time? Did you drop the engine or just the tranny and clutch?  I am trying to gear up to it.(pun intended)  The guy I got my bike from said he had just done them.............................but he did some other stuff I had to fix as well! :falldown: So I am thinking I should get a look at um  to be sure.  Can you link me to the best step by step here that you found? And what was your lube of choice?
Thanks,
Bizz

[chico]

This guy makes some good videos if you don't mind spicy language:

All I did was the rear drive and the back end of the drive shaft. I work on the sidewalk in the city and didn't want to get in too deep and have the sun go down on me. However, now that I have done that and seen how simple and quickly it can be done, I'll be going back in to remove the swing arm to get to the other end of the drive shaft and the (clutch output...?) splines at that end. I haven't gone so far as to pull the clutch and transmission to get those splines but with the videos I linked, it doesn't look all that difficult.

I used Guard Dog 525 which is a molybdenum synthetic lube.

 

[TimTyler]

I do not suggest a first-time clutch spline lube on the sidewalk. Find a place where the bike will be safe overnight if you don't finish.

The second time you do it you'll probably finish in 5 hours if you're organized.

[chico]

Thanks for the tip and was thinking the same. I might be able to get some garage space this winter but outside of that, I won't be trying this at home.

[bizzaro]

Thanks for get n back to me Chico.  And what exactly did you take apart to get to the two splines you cleaned and lubed?  I also have an open air garage.  But, weather being kind, can leave it overnight, and not worry about anyone mess n with it!  My floor is a piece of 4x8 plywood cause it is easier to find dropped nuts n bolts etc. on plywood, than the grass n gravel i that used to be my floor! :eek:  So I am curious as to how much of a tear down you did and still got to the splines.  Ain't been there so I am totally ignorant (as you can see from most of my posts) as to what ya need to take apart. And yes I do "endless searches.  Since I have got this bike, I am either riding it, working on it, or reading about it here and in my manuals!! And I thought it was just the splines from the engine(drive shaft/crankshaft of the motor) and the splines from the tranny to the wheel drive shaft that needed to be attended to?

I have seen this guys effin, effin, then take the effin off of the effin effin effin. then goe to the other side and do the same effin thing that efffn side. not offended, just amazed at the limits of his vocabulary compared to his Brick knowledge. W T F(tee hee) is that about.  You think his old lady likes dirty talk?  Anyway, I digress!
:hehehe

So my old floor/launch and landing pad to my newer and improvider floor/launch and landing pad.  My brother has a nice garage but all my tools are here! :dunno

[Scott_]

Bizarro, for a full spline lube(including clutch splines)you will need a rig to hold the front wheel. You need to hold it from rolling forward/backward, as well as being able to hold the bike upright as the center stand will be removed with the transmission to get at the clutch splines.

Some saw-horses with 2x4 will suffice to hold up the back end of the bike. 

Here's a mental image for you to think of, basically you are removing most everything behind the engine short of the frame and tail plastic.

The first time I did the clutch splines on my '97 it took me a full 2 days on a weekend. I had no table lift at that time so I had to build a 4x4 frame to hold the front wheel and forks to keep it upright. I also suspended the back of the bike from my garage rafters as opposed to saw horses......
Since then I acquired a powered table lift so I'm not working on my knees anymore.

[bizzaro]

Scott,
So is it almost as easy just to drop the engine out to do the splines? I guess not considering all the component connections to the engine?  And the Clutch splines need to be lubed? It is a dry clutch...................????? Sorry once again for my newbieism ignorance.  I am like a child with a new toy and fascinated by its essence.  I will probably do the splines in my brothers where I can suspend the bike from the rafters and stabilize the bike at the same time.  I am contemplating a trip to CO from VT and have a lot of ground to cover before I go.  This bike runs pretty well but pretty much sat for 10 years. The guy I got it from put 1k on it in that time.  Running rich, spider web like carbon off the tail pipe. Idle a bit irregular, and the a bit sluggish till I hit 5600 rpm.............................then it is like a turbo kicks in..............holy crap!  LOVE THIS BIKE!!!!!  I want it running tip top.

[herseyb]

Eastern beaver kit installed, just needed a grommet. What a great set up.

[Scott_]

Bizarro, one good indicator that you are in need a clutch spline lube would be difficulties in downshifting. That seems to be the best indicator that I have heard of. Not saying that you don't have to do it, only you can decide that.
Yes, it is a dry clutch, but the clutch friction disk connects to the splined input shaft of the transmission, this connection needs to be lubricated so the disk can "float" on this shaft when the pressure plate is depressed. When this disk can't float properly it will cause the transmission shafts to turn with more "power" and will cause you difficulties when downshifting.
Personally I think it is still easier to leave the engine in frame and disconnect the stuff from the back.
In the mean time get yourself some seafoam and run it with the gas to help clean up the injectors and such. I use about 5-6oz per full tank. This can't hurt, and will potentially help with your rich running mixture.
Another possibility could be the water temp sensor not reading correctly, but I'd run with the seafoam 1st as it's the easiest and should be done anyway..........
Also be checking your vacuum hoses and other rubber bits as they do dry up and crack and leak which leads to running issues.

To be honest, you could start a new thread for your project here. It would get more views and thoughts of help as well.

[chico]

All I did was remove the wheel, remove the rear shock bottom bolt so I could swing it out of the way, remove the bottom of the z-bar luggage rack on the right side, unclip the speedo plug (didn't remove from final drive housing). Then unbolt the four final drive housing bolts and slide it back, removing it from the end of the swing arm. This reveals the final drive splines and the rear of the drive shaft splines. If I understand correctly, these are the splines that most commonly fail and benefit from the most frequent lubing. They are also the easiest to access.

Please correct me if I'm wrong as I am just learning this stuff too.

At that stage, you could pop off the drive shaft and lube the other end of that also. However, at this stage, you will not have access to (in order from the drive shaft toward the front of the bike): the clutch friction plate splines, transmission output splines located at the right rear of the transmission or the transmission input splines on the front or engine side of the transmission. If you remove the swing arm, which doesn't involve much extra work, you can access the clutch friction plate splines. For the rest, you must remove the clutch pack and transmission which requires removing the center stand, supporting the bike and a significant amount more time and effort.

Excellent explanation: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=490.0
More: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/inputsplinesthrowout.htm

General Information:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,339.0.html
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,370.0.html

I agree with Scott_  A new thread would be a great way to document what you are doing and get more/better feedback. Nice looking bike, btw.

[bizzaro]

Scott n Chico,
Thanks for all the info. Great help. I am, was going to start a new thread but kinda landed on Chicos current spline jop and it kinda grew outa that! Especialy the briefs on what you did Chico. And I have been using sea foam, techron concentrate, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Seperatly and together. Going to try n get a look at the air filter soon and sync throttle bodies. Trying to close here, but, for me, good answers just lead to more questions!  like aren't the final drive splines getting lubed with the final drive. Ok. Time for me to get back to searching, and reading my manuals! I am going to call the guy I bought it from need how far he got into it and when. Thanks again guys.
See Ya in the twisties,
Bizz

[Scott_]

Biz, if you haven't yet, read this post on K-bike splines. Might help explain it better than I.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=490.0

As you read it, remember that Chico has a Monolever, which is different than your Paralever.  So there is some differences.

[Tuco]

I couldn't believe the difference in shift quality after the spline lube, especially on downshifts.