Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998678 times)

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #1500 on:** June 20, 2015, 09:36:33 PM »

With a reading of 66816 miles I changed the engine oil and filter.

Also replaced the clutch cable. I didn't like how engagement was pretty "far out" and the FSM instructions for adjustment made things worse, so I figured it was stretched too much. I spent a total of $44.21 at BMW of Grand Rapids for a new one. I opted for the longer version as I have bar risers. Both cables were in stock though.

I also replaced all the external fuel lines on the bike...the recent account of andwew's K75 catching fire and exploding and some cracks in the old lines convinced me to replace them.

Elipten · « **Reply #1501 on:** June 20, 2015, 11:08:02 PM »

Wise move on those fuel lines.

billday · « **Reply #1502 on:** June 22, 2015, 09:43:30 PM »

Wanting to beef up my brake light conspicuity, I bought these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/391125969306?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I already have the Hyperlights 16-LED units in the empty chambers on either side of the brake light/taillight housing. I attached one of these little 3-LED units to the side of each Hyperlight, and wired them into the brake light circuit. A nice improvement for 3 bucks. Sorry no pictures, but I'm lazy.

slipring · « **Reply #1503 on:** June 26, 2015, 03:11:14 PM »

New rear BMW emblem:

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #1504 on:** June 27, 2015, 09:53:30 AM »

Quote from: billday on June 22, 2015, 09:43:30 PM

Wanting to beef up my brake light conspicuity, I bought these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/391125969306?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I already have the Hyperlights 16-LED units in the empty chambers on either side of the brake light/taillight housing. I attached one of these little 3-LED units to the side of each Hyperlight, and wired them into the brake light circuit. A nice improvement for 3 bucks. Sorry no pictures, but I'm lazy.

Just curious since I would like to add more LED's to my brake light. Is there any problem with the bulb monitor unit with all those extra LED's back there?

Scott_ · « **Reply #1505 on:** June 27, 2015, 11:36:17 AM »

If you are adding the LED's in addition to the stock lamp, you should have no issues.
If you are removing and replacing the stock lamp with LED's, you have the option of removing the BMU unit altogether and bypassing it, and you also have the option of leaving the BMU and installing a small load resistor to "fake out" the BMU unit but it will be just as disabled as if you removed it..........

Scott_ · « **Reply #1506 on:** June 27, 2015, 11:40:58 AM »

Today I finished the brakes on both bikes.
Checked the rear caliper on the '97, both pistons move with no drag, so I'll keep the seal kit for another day.
Installed new pads on both bikes front and rear, with the caliper renewal in last few weeks so all should be good with the brakes now for quite a number of miles.....

Now to do some riding......... yea haw... :riding:

slipring · « **Reply #1507 on:** June 27, 2015, 02:18:40 PM »

Scott_,

Just curious, what kind of pads do you like (pad composition and brand)?

MonkeyMcBean · « **Reply #1508 on:** June 27, 2015, 10:44:06 PM »

Today I tried to start it... no go. multimeter showed 2 thousandths of a volt in the battery. Something's wrong.

Scott_ · « **Reply #1509 on:** June 28, 2015, 08:26:31 AM »

Quote from: slipring on June 27, 2015, 02:18:40 PM

Scott_,

Just curious, what kind of pads do you like (pad composition and brand)?

Well, I like the Kevlar organic pads(Volar Motorsport VBP162, VBP140-FR-3) from D2moto(e-bay seller), but they are not a real exact fit....... I have to take my dremel to the front pad backing plate to get them to fit in the calipers. The rears fit just fine.
For the price($15 for a complete set front and rear), I can handle a little dremel time to fit them.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #1510 on:** June 28, 2015, 12:15:56 PM »

A very big +1 on the pads that Scott recommends. I use them as well on my two K's and am very pleased with how they work and that they seem to be pretty gentle on those very expensive rotors.

One tip, use some anti-squeal on the back of them to prevent squealing when lightly braking at low speeds.

slipring · « **Reply #1511 on:** June 28, 2015, 06:06:35 PM »

TMG and Scott_,

Thanks for suggestions. I recently installed a new EBC MD611 rear brake rotor and EBC FA18 pads (with CRC Disc Brake Quiet) in rear calipers. The FA18 pads (from fleaBay) are supposed to be organic/kevlar, but they did have what looks like metal flakes in the pad composition. I still have a bit of squeal with rear brakes (though much less than before). Two months ago I installed EBC FA171 pads (again, with CRC Disc Brake Quiet) in both front calipers and that brake system is now dead quiet. I don't recall the front ones looking like the rear ones in photos below. Is it possible that these were packaged incorrectly and what I just installed are actually of the "sintered" variety?

chico · « **Reply #1512 on:** June 29, 2015, 12:31:20 PM »

I did a little rehab on the cases. After someone's suggestion here, I went to Home Despot looking for adhesive insulating strips and thought I'd try these. Definitely not a perfect fit but for $2.75 for ten feet, I gave it a shot. Definitely quiets the rattly latches.

chico · « **Reply #1513 on:** June 29, 2015, 12:45:28 PM »

I also got around to replacing the front fork springs with Progressives that had been sitting under my bed since I bought the bike a year ago. And after being merged into 3 times within 30 minutes at freeway speeds, I added a Freeway Blaster horn.

Two questions:
1. Will the newer style luggage latches with the round locks fit in place of the older style, flat latches?
2. The stock fork springs had plastic/nylon bushings on both ends. I wasn't sure whether to use them with the new springs or not, so I just used the ones on the bottom. The top rests against the PVC spacer I cut so I figured I didn't need one there. Is this 'correct'? I took it for a quick spin and I am so pleased with the results. Can't wait to get out this weekend.

Thanks again!

zilla · « **Reply #1514 on:** June 29, 2015, 07:41:51 PM »

Cussed at it!

Waited three weeks for the fuel sender gasket and that didn't fix the problem.
Now it looks like I need to find a no longer available sender.

rbm · « **Reply #1515 on:** June 30, 2015, 10:11:17 AM »

Have you tried to refurbish the old sender yet?

zilla · « **Reply #1516 on:** June 30, 2015, 04:37:28 PM »

Quote from: rbm on June 30, 2015, 10:11:17 AM

Have you tried to refurbish the old sender yet?

Refurbish?

it appears I have the earlier style sender. Not the one that has the float.

rbm · « **Reply #1517 on:** June 30, 2015, 05:00:03 PM »

Ah, didn't realize.

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #1518 on:** July 10, 2015, 07:59:41 PM »

With all the stupid cage operators out there I decided to upgrade to the Wolo Bad Boy air horn. This is the before-video with the dual Bimmer horns that I believe Drake fitted the bike with

https://www.facebook.com/f14crazy/videos/10154062908642908/?l=3786911484592939495

And after:

https://www.facebook.com/f14crazy/videos/10154062910472908/?l=1816469787528912004

I don't think the video quite does it justice...it's LOUD

Can't really see it up there unless you're looking for it

bizzaro · « **Reply #1519 on:** July 10, 2015, 09:13:18 PM »

Prolly should consider changing those sneakers. Really!

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #1520 on:** July 10, 2015, 11:03:11 PM »

Quote from: bizzaro on July 10, 2015, 09:13:18 PM

Prolly should consider changing those sneakers. Really!

I have a 9:30 appointment tomorrow morning to have the front and rear replaced :riding: Trying out Shinko 712's

bizzaro · « **Reply #1521 on:** July 11, 2015, 09:14:22 AM »

:2thumbup: To funny.........................I almost got shinkos for my new to me K1100LT but went for the Briidgestone radials because of recommendations here. I was running those god awfull Dunlops on my old Virago. The Dunlops are good for going up and down Main street as far as I can tell! For the price of the rear 404, instead I got a shinko for the front and rear, Plus I purchased a static balancer to boot! :mbird Yep, all for about the same price as a rear Dunlop 404. AND WHAT A DIFFERENCE IN HANDLEING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :clap: It was like a new bike. That bitch would just roll into the corners so sweet! (but then the forks would flex and whobble){that's another subject about yamaha's under built forks!} So let me know how you like the Shinkos on the K. I used to get about 5k out of my rear tior. Not to shabby for a $65 purchase :riding: Oh, I almost forgot, two sets of tior irons and balancing weights as well :clap: I think the total was about a buck forty five. The Dumblops were running around a buck and a quarter at the time if I recall?

K75RT Keith · « **Reply #1522 on:** July 13, 2015, 02:09:09 PM »

Rewired tail light & Turn indicators s to be used as running lights and turn signals. Tore down 50 amp alternator for rebuild. It's ready to have the old bearings removed and the new ones pressed in. Finally got the stuck bezel on the Motolight off and started sanding the nicks out of the lights.

Scott_ · « **Reply #1523 on:** July 13, 2015, 06:02:02 PM »

I decided to order a new rear tior for the '95 as it was to the wear bars. Front(PR2) is fine for the rest of the riding season this hear. I opted for a PR3 in a 150/70 size.
I'm going to try the 150/70 size again, but move the center stand spacers and see how much it helps with placing it on the center stand.

herseyb · « **Reply #1524 on:** July 13, 2015, 09:26:40 PM »

Ordered new tyres (should be here wednesday). replaced the tail light. Installed polished headlight lens.

I need to figure out which kit to get to rewire the headlight. Those stock wires are scary skinny.

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Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998678 times)