What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[kris]

Thanks Tim...pretty basic stuff, eh?

[TimTyler]

Got a new Pelican-style case (Seahorse SE-540) with some custom foam (MyCaseBuilder.com) for carrying the cameras on the Hepco-Becker rear rack. It's a good fit. Previously I had a old Pelican with divider inserts and stuff would bounce around a lot in there. Wish I could find a quick-release for the case/rack.

Got a new tank bag to replace the 1st generation OEM Multivario which is fairly beat to shit at this point. I stopped by Touratech and tried the excellent Giant Loop FTB Pro (made in Bend, OR) but the cut-out for the fuel cap is just way too small. Rode to Seattle's north side and settled on the locally manufactured AltRider bag (they only make one). Similar in size to the Giant Loop, very waterproof, big cut-out for the fuel cap, and a long wrap-around zipper connecting to the base for easy fueling. I'm hoping a grow to appreciate the waterproof roll-top liner that's permanently affixed to the inside of the bag, but for now it seems like a space-waster as the bag is 95% weatherproof without it.

Put the S handlebars back on in my never-ending quest for ergo-bliss. My wrists align better with the S bars than the C bars. The new tank bag will support some of my weight leaning forward.

Then went for a ride.

[kris]

I pulled the forks off today since I thought the head bearing was notchy. Turns out the grease was dry and chunky. The races look fine (and feel smooth to the touch), I've got the bearings and forks cleaned up....does anyone have recommendations for grease? Thanks!

[TimTyler]

Went to the dealer today to inquire about their exhaust analyzer. Told them I just need the CO number. "Half hour service minimum. Schedule and appointment. Bla bla." No thanks, I said.

Found a WA State inspection facility one mile down the road. "We've never done a motorcycle." she says. Motorcycle aren't required to have emissions tests in WA. I tell her I'm just looking for the test results for personal reasons, not DMV requirements. She asks her manager to make a call to the home office to find out if the machines will work with a motobrick. The office gives her the go-ahead.

They inspectors are totally stoked to have a moto in the inspection bay. Wide smiles the whole time I'm there. Their photographer comes out and snaps some shots. It was freaky. She takes my $15. They stick their probe into the motobrick and test at idle 1k rpm and "Cruising" 2.5k rpm. I "pass". We head into the office to generate a print-out of the results.

My Carbon Dioxide (CO) value at idle is 2.94. BMW spec is 1.80-2.00 so I'm burning too much fuel. I suspected that, mostly because I've only been getting 40mpg and I can smell fuel when the bike starts.

Got to figure out how to lean out my mixture now. Pretty sure it's the screw on the top of the airbox / AFM. Tighten or loosen? How much?

[johnny]

it would be lower with no corn ethyl in there...

i vote clockwise north of baja...  counterclockwise south of baja...

j o

[Inge K.]

Pretty sure it's the screw on the top of the airbox / AFM. Tighten or loosen? How much?

The adjusting screw is a air bypass, so you must loosen it to let more air through.
I would have tried 1 full turn, smash the piggy bank, take 15$ and revisit the inspection place.

[TimTyler]

I like the way you guys think.  :yes

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Some possibly very dumb questions:

The CO(carbon monoxide) reading at cruise looks like it is in spec.  Adjusting the bypass on the FM affects all throttle settings, doesn't it?  Won't it make the cruising mixture too lean?  Isn't the correct adjustment the throttle body air bypass?

What is the correct setting for the throttle body air bypass screws?  Don't they have some effect on the idle mixture? 

Is it possible to set the idle mixture by using idle plug readings?

[TimTyler]

It's my understanding that the air bypass on the air flow meter sets the base air-fuel mixture for the engine @ idle. The brass throttle body screws are sort of a fine-tuning of that mixture, allowing you to dial-in each cylinder individually. Once the butterflies open the air passing through the throttle body bypass screws becomes insignificant.

Rather than drive back and forth 40 miles each way to the emissions testing facility in Fife, WA I found a guy with a mobile dyno truck 5 minutes away. He cut me a great deal assuming I'd be in and out with just an CO mixture adjustment. He took a look at the ignition timing which was a tad off and then put the bike on the dyno and dialed in the airflow meter bypass screw to yield a 14:1 mixture. I brought my Carbtune since he didn't have one and got everything sounding smooth. He tunes a lot of Harleys and Japanese bikes but has never done a motobrick. He didn't seem to mind my suggestions and tech input.

He was impressed that the exhaust mixture remained perfectly constant throughout the entire RPM range. I guess that's not very common.

Maximum Power:  BMW Spec: 75 hp (55 KW) at 8,500 rpm / My Bike: 54hp
Max Torque:   BMW Spec:  50 ft lb at 6,750 rpm / My Bike: 38 ft lb

I wonder if BMW tests the drive shaft or the complete drivetrain to arrive at those specifications?

[kris]

Tim,
Are those stock bars on your bike? If so, from which model?

Thanks

[johnny]

greetings timtilor...

proper valve shims are good for 20hp... proally oughtra getts somebody to getts your valves dialed in...

greetings kris....

stock oem s or rs bars are best... regardless of what the geezers tellya...

j o

[TimTyler]

I have stock S-bars on the bike now.

Valve shims were adjusted two weeks ago.

[kris]

Thanks Johnny!

Happy trails....

[kris]

Thanks Tim. I'm going to get a set for when I take the bike naked...keep 'em in reserve. She'll go back together stock for now (I'm mean when Wintergeddon is done with us!!). It's a balmy -3F right now and I don't have heated grips...

[The Mighty Gryphon]

So that's what rear end "jacking" looks like.  Shows good on the vid.

[Chaos]

CC products had a dyno at the MOA national in 88.  My K75 ran 52 hp, forgot the torque.  Had a competition between R100's and K75's, they were usually within a couple hp.  BMW took the readings off the crank, 75 is even optimistic for that!

[BeemerDrew]

Just finished replacing the Givi 181 rack for the top box as the old one had stripped threads and the bolts kept falling out.  It looks like the jig they use in the factory when they make these racks isn't quite right as there is something out of alignment.  The first three bolts go in OK but the last one just doesn't quite line up - probably why the thread was stripped on the one just replaced.  Anyways, I got the last bolt in OK and everything looks good.

Didn't have the Beemer roundel on the cowling piece, so I ordered one from the net and stuck it on.  I know that you can't see it with the rack in the way, but it's nice to know it's there!

[kris]

Nicely done. Safe riding!

[Glacial]

Just finished replacing the Givi 181 rack for the top box as the old one had stripped threads and the bolts kept falling out.  It looks like the jig they use in the factory when they make these racks isn't quite right as there is something out of alignment.  The first three bolts go in OK but the last one just doesn't quite line up - probably why the thread was stripped on the one just replaced.  Anyways, I got the last bolt in OK and everything looks good.

Interesting, I had the same issue with the same rack.  Found the front completely loose one day and haven't trusted a full load in the box since.  May need to drill and re-tap the holes for a larger bolt - add it to the list!

[ICBMW]

I added this:



I can't park my bike near any outlets so I installed a solar battery tender. Hey, there's nothing more middle-age dork than a 19-year-old K tourer so this is just the next step. I think it looks cool. I got the 2 watt version of the PulseTech Solar Battery Charger. It's not supposed to charge the battery but it's supposed to "clean damaging lead-sulphates from the battery plates, which helps maintain a battery that can accept, store and release its power when needed." The one I saw reviewed was a 5 watt so I hope the 2 watt is able to help some. I asked the manufacturer and they recommended the 2 watt -- told me it was perfectly fine. Have any of you tried anything like this?

So, I fell for the literature. I know that the 2W isn't going to charge the battery so I hope that "conditioning" is what I need.

In short, I like telling the uninitiated that my bike is solar powered.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Mybe you can get a couple grand from the govt.

[TimTyler]

I don't see why it wouldn't slowly charge you battery if it outputs 2.0A. My Battery Tender outputs 0.75A.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

That's just it, it doesn't put out 2A.  A 2 amp panel is about 8 times the size of that one. 

That panel puts out maybe 50ma. in bright sunshine.  There is an electronic circuit that is supposed to put out a 2 amp pulse, probably from a capacitor, every couple of seconds.  I am guessing the pulse duration is measured in msec.  That's why it is sold as a conditioner not a charger.  It doesn't have enough output to charge a battery.

[WayneDW]

Replaced the mini-outlet with a USB outlet which i think will be much more useful.
Also put the battery back in, started it and rode all the way up and down the alley!

[kris]

That's a nice installation. I have a bunch of open plugs in my fuse box. Not really sure what they were meant for...maybe ABS, auxiliary plugs, etc.. I will take a picture of the box and post it. What did you wire this to?

Are you getting a bit of the thaw in Minny? Those of us in the Toronto/ Buffalo/ Detroit area are warming up nicely. I may get on my Kawi this week. When I did the math it really hasn't been that much of a hiatus. I last rode on January 2nd....so what was I complaining about?? Hope it lasts!