Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998890 times)

Sebsi · « **Reply #975 on:** August 11, 2013, 04:09:45 PM »

I wanted to 1+ Shooter's comment about replacing the rubber grommet/bushing that supports the exhaust behind the left foot peg. I was getting an occasionally knock over bumps and discovered the exhaust was a bit loose and the rubber bushing was gone. It was a bitch to replace, but dramatically smoothed out the bike at 4500+ rpms. And the knock's gone, of course.

Seb

Grim · « **Reply #976 on:** August 11, 2013, 06:05:08 PM »

Quote from: Sebsi on August 11, 2013, 04:09:45 PM

I wanted to 1+ Shooter's comment about replacing the rubber grommet/bushing that supports the exhaust behind the left foot peg. I was getting an occasionally knock over bumps and discovered the exhaust was a bit loose and the rubber bushing was gone. It was a bitch to replace, but dramatically smoothed out the bike at 4500+ rpms. And the knock's gone, of course.

Seb

There is a second mount you might want to check. It's off the right side off the center stand mount. Either mount failing can lead to cracks in the exhaust system where the 4 pipes join the main body of the exhaust.

roninvt · « **Reply #977 on:** August 11, 2013, 07:04:33 PM »

To commemorate my bike turning 50000, I changed the air filter and installed a zumo 660.

WayneDW · « **Reply #978 on:** August 11, 2013, 08:08:25 PM »

I ground down the tumblers in the gas cap as described here:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=494.msg13707#msg13707

Now I have one less key on my key ring. Thanks Motobrick!

k kid · « **Reply #979 on:** August 14, 2013, 06:16:10 PM »

I renovated the master cylinder on back brake.
Untouched since 1974 I guess. It jammed on last week.
It was a pig getting the new boot back on with the 'red rubber grease'

Can't figure out the 2mm tolerance at the microswitch though !

Sebsi · « **Reply #980 on:** August 15, 2013, 09:55:44 PM »

I rode to Nowhere, got off the bike in the middle of it, and took a picture.

East of Tonopah, NV, en route to Great Basin Nat'l Park.

johnny · « **Reply #981 on:** August 18, 2013, 05:49:11 PM »

i have been experiencing an enormous power surge between 8,000 and 8,500 rpm... so i synced it up at 8,000 rpm so it is more reliable in the twistys...

j o

drut · « **Reply #982 on:** August 22, 2013, 03:47:12 PM »

Just bought 1990 K100rs & playing catch up with faults,soldered in new front brake switch from Maplin (£1.49 :clap:) & replaced leakingfront master cylinder sight glass with epoxied in 19.5 mm watch mineral glass.

Red · « **Reply #983 on:** August 24, 2013, 07:09:11 PM »

This morning I pulled off the gas tank on my '97 K1100LT and did some general house cleaning ... topped off the the radiator with distilled water and coolant. Checked and topped off the battery with distilled water. Minor reroute of the handle grip warmer wire and cleaned up the warmer's wire plug, (male and female), cleaned the warmer's switch contacts located on the dash, checked and replaced it's respective fuse with a new one. Darn, and the hand warmers started to work again. Pulled off and replaced 4ea front brake lines with new Speigler steel braided brake lines. New brake fluid and bleed of the front brake system and front master cylinder. Saving the last remaining new brake line that goes in the back of the bike for another day ... ran out of time. Experimented and fiddled with the front brake master cylinder for awhile and indications suggest that I might think about a rebuild for this master cylinder at some point in the near future, (bike is at 89K miles at present time). Bike seems to be running pretty good. :riding:

Opus · « **Reply #984 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:10:19 PM »

Changed oil and filter.
Reinstated my wide angle mirrors on the wind screen.
I like them better up high so I can just look over and see what going on.

mystic red · « **Reply #985 on:** August 28, 2013, 09:15:52 PM »

How did you attach those bad ass mirrors?

Opus · « **Reply #986 on:** August 29, 2013, 02:05:27 AM »

Hey Mystic Red!

3M Molding Tape.
The Heavy Duty Stuff.
Strong and water proof.

After placing the mirrors I used some clamps to keep them in place until the tape was seated good.
I have used it before and it works really well when you want to mount something without drilling or gluing.
It is easy to remove if needed also.

mystic red · « **Reply #987 on:** August 30, 2013, 07:57:59 PM »

Yep. ... that molding tape is badass.

Oma Aika · « **Reply #988 on:** September 01, 2013, 10:52:24 AM »

Minor thing, visible change: I replaced the back light with new one. The old one had a small crack.

Old one:

New is brighter, too:

I wrote a short update on my blog: how to get a navigator on an old motorbike - cheap!
http://www.vanhamoto.net/2012/05/navigaattori-vanhaan-moottoripyoraan.html

racinrich · « **Reply #989 on:** September 01, 2013, 06:57:00 PM »

hey mystic where did you get that clown pic for your avatar ,from the california criminal review website ? I think I saw him in cheeseland defiling the landscape !!!

mystic red · « **Reply #990 on:** September 01, 2013, 09:14:43 PM »

It's a little known fact that Johnny and I are virtual twins... some slight differences.

Grim · « **Reply #991 on:** September 03, 2013, 03:41:25 PM »

Went for a ride with a buddy and got caught in a raining sideways down pour Sunday. Damn near got blown off the road.

When I got home I noticed a bit of water in the saddle bags (again). Thinking the seals were not sealing. Also notice that one of the latches is floppy. On further investigation it seems some knuckle dragging halfwit paint sniffing body shop guy that the PO bragged on the "great job he did fixing the damage from dropping the bike and repainting the saddle bags" (not really) decided to use tech screws instead of rivets to reattach the latches. The screws funneled water around the top latches right into the case. This of course also wallowed out the 1/8 holes in the latch so now 1/8 rivets will not work. :bang-head:

So I assume at one point there was a gasket under the top latch to keep water from running into the case. I used a little RTV instead. Since the holes would no longer hold a 1/8 pop rivet I drilled them up to the next size of 5/32.

No more floppy feeling latches and hopefully that will fix my leaks. Let the RTV dry and give it a bath in a bit to see.

Opus · « **Reply #992 on:** September 06, 2013, 04:03:10 PM »

After a 309 mile round trip to near Heber Springs Ar. and back I have determined that my Grips & Hwy. Pegs BLOW BIG ONES!!!!!!!

So I order from A-zon a set of Kuryakyn 6341 Grips, 3618 Thottle Boss, 6339 Bar Ends and a set of 7980 Longhorn Offset Dually HWY Pegs.

Removed the old grips and pegs and cleaned up the bar and did a touch up paint on the engine guards to cover scratches.
I got everything but the bar ends in last night and will install them tomorrow when they get here.

All in all it took me about 2 hrs. to do including prep & cleanup.

Update:
Well USPS got my Bar Ends here and I have installed them.
After installing the bar hardly moves at all.
Think I'm going to like this....

TimTyler · « **Reply #993 on:** September 09, 2013, 08:07:27 PM »

Second full spline lube of 2013 today.

Damned grub screw had loosened so it needed to be done. 10k miles since the last one anyway. Lots of fun miles this summer!

mystic red · « **Reply #994 on:** September 10, 2013, 10:15:09 AM »

Opus.... you will like those Highway pegs. ... same as mine. .. full range of adjustment. What are those grips?

Opus · « **Reply #995 on:** September 10, 2013, 03:57:56 PM »

Quote from: mystic red on September 10, 2013, 10:15:09 AM

Opus.... you will like those Highway pegs. ... same as mine. .. full range of adjustment. What are those grips?

Thanks Mystic! Can't wait to try them out on a long run.

The Grips are Kuryakyn GLOSS BLACK ISO-GRIPS (PN:6341 Universal for 7/8" Handlebars) I added the Throttle Boss (PN:6318) & Weighted Bar Ends (PN:6339).

I could tell l right off that they helped with the handle bars. I use to be able to feel the shaking a lot at idle, now they are smooth as silk.
I did have to tape & glue the left grip in place because it was a little loose but it was nothing to do.
I had the foam type that the P.O. had put on and they were killing my hands after only 15 to 20 min. of riding.
I talked to a few others that had the Kuryakyns and they swore by them so I'm giving the a try.

argent brick · « **Reply #996 on:** September 16, 2013, 03:26:53 AM »

Finally pulled the tank on my K75 to install an air cup. Much to my surprise, I found that the vapor recovery line running from the tank to the crankcase was unplugged. It has always run a little rough at idle. Now I know why. I wonder how long the PO ran it like this. At speed I have always felt that it was a smooth runner but it is much better now. Wow! Super smooth.

My fuel economy has never been good with this bike. Could this be the reason? Maybe it will start getting better mileage. I can hope!

zonenfeile · « **Reply #997 on:** September 20, 2013, 01:19:32 AM »

I ignored the weather
she´s dirty and has new vibrations from arround gearbox-> final drive

TimTyler · « **Reply #998 on:** September 23, 2013, 10:11:27 PM »

R+R Steering Bearings - Part I - Remove

My steering has a little notch in the straight-ahead position. Time to replace the bearings.

I've been hesitant to tackle this. Watched the YouTubes, read the forums, and I didn't want to get half way through the job and not be able to finish in my driveway. But so far it's going well.

The outer races stuck in the frame were knocked out with a screwdriver from the inside with light duty hammer tapping.

I learned that the fluid block damper needs to come out through the top since there are welds in the way (steering lock) on the bottom.

The top inner race came off the top triple tree with a strong breeze. The lower inner race required cutting with a dremel tool, a blow torch (which i don't think made a difference) and some hammer whacking from below. This mangled the lower dust cap so I'm hoping the dealer has some in stock in the morning.

I bought the bearings a few weeks ago. The outer races are in the freezer now along with the cleaned steering tube / lower triple tree assembly. I also bought the Dow High Vacuum Grease that is recommended for the fluid block damper.

The hole in the steering tube where the steering lock slides into was a little bent and I needed to file it down to slide the old bearing off.

More tomorrow hopefully.

TimTyler · « **Reply #999 on:** September 25, 2013, 12:01:12 PM »

R+R Steering Bearings - Part II - Replace

Smooth sailing throughout this job :)

I used the inverted old outer races to tap the new frozen races into the frame tube. Note that a visible gap remains under the top race even after it is fully seated. This had me concerned for a while until I discovered it was okay. The bottom race seats deeper into the frame tube.

The oven-warmed 300-degree lower inner bearing dropped easily onto the frozen lower triple-tree with a fresh dust seal, and I tapped it with a socket just to make sure.

Determining the proper torque for the steering tube on the bearings is tough, especially with the fluid block damper resistance. I thought about leaving the FBD uninstalled but, well, I had the fresh lube and all, so what the hell. I used a large pipe wrench on the big knurled steering nut until the un-forked triple trees felt rough to turn, then I backed off the nut a tiny bit. With the weight of the forks and wheel installed the front end turns much easier now.

Don't forget to leave the upper triple tree fork bolts loose when adjusting the bearing tightness. Then torque them down once the bearings are set.

Had to bleed the front brakes since the master cylinder was upside down for a day.

Goin' out for a ride in the sun later today.

News:

Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998890 times)