What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[roninvt]

Hi ackgs...if you put the model of your bike in your signature, everyone will know what you have for a bike

[ackgs]

Done

[billday]

Removed my front wheel (first time doing that) and had a non-beemer dealer replace the Lasertech that was pretty much used up with a Dunlop D404, now matching the rear. I'm racking up a few hundred miles each week now that I'm attending Michigan State full time and these are said to last 10k miles. I'll be reporting back with their longevity.

Changed engine oil. Had about 5k miles on it. Valvoline conventional motorcycle 20w50 and an AC Delco PF53 oil filter. I have a stash of Bosch filters that came with the bike but didn't get to grab one where they're stored.

Let us know how you do with the 404s. I just replaced a pair that had plenty of tread left but lots of cracking between the treads (not on the sidewalls). The guy who does my state inspection says the 404s are known for that. I went with Shinkos. I've been meaning to start a thread about life in Cheap-O Tire Land.

Next oil change, consider Mobil 1 Synth, pretty reasonable price when you get the big jug from WalMart. The synth oil is supposed to prevent problems with the starter's sprag clutch.

[ackgs]

This morning I changed my front brake pads and bled the brake fluid. I had purchased a set of speed bleeder nipples and that greatly simplified the bleeding process. I took Johnny's advice and went with the EBC organic pads. The pads I removed had what I think was quite a bit of life left in them but I have been bitten in the butt by work the PO had done before so I felt the safe thing was to change them out. Front and back pads are new now along with fluid so I can cross that off the list.The pads in the bike were BMW and I can't believe how nice the EBC pads feel. I used the Brake Quiet product too and the EBCs are way less noisy and braking is greatly improved compared to what I had. Happy I bit the bullet and changed them out. Need to finish up a tank of gas heavy with Techron then I will change my oil again. Getting there one project at a time.

[TimTyler]

Took a close look at the $210 oil-water pump shaft that was just replaced.

[johnny]

while water possess some lubricating properties in some applications... it does not in the motobrick application...

so... if you would put some oil in your water that would not have happened...

now... i changed all the fluids in the burd motobrick today... gonna do the same for the brick of the corn next weekend... and getts it ready for winter nesting... as the burd motobrick will be on active duty all winter...

j o

[TimTyler]

Thanks, J O. That's on my list of things to do once I install car tiors and a VW rear shock absolver on the K75.

[johnny]

you donts needs a new shock absolver... you just needs a betweens 8mm and 13mm of plumbing pipe spacer to fixt the one you gotts...

j o

[musicbum]

Checked the ECU wiring harness for the water temp resistance at dead cold and warmed up. She's running rich. The plugs are fouling and my oil level is mysteriously rising. Everything looked good with the numbers on the temp sensor, so my next step is to beg/borrow/steal a fuel pressure gauge to see of the FPR is working.

The posts here are invaluable.

Buying an old Brick also includes a promotion to Chief Engineer!

[Zampano]

added a $20 coleman atv seat cover in an attempt to "polish a turd" and cover up the torn corbin. Not a bad temporary fix. It's relatively comfortable. What is odd is that the fraction of an inch you are raised by causes a big difference in riding position and feel. These bikes have such a high center of gravity I think it's better to keep yourself as low as possible.

Also found an aeroflow and the wind buffeting is definitely improved. Still plenty of wind noise, but instead of the brunt of the wind smacking me straight in the mouth area it's moved up towards the top of the helmet. I like to sit up straight when I ride so it's still not perfect but much better than the stock windshield.

[orforester]

Nice seat, I haven't posted in a while, too busy off fighting wildfires.  Found a couple of other Brickers over the summer, sold one of them my Corbin nice brown seat today, installed it for him as well.  Nice to help out a fellow biker!!

[Marky Boy OZ]

Found my cooling fan is gummed up....... :mbird

Posted on form about this...........

[ackgs]

Rainy day here in southern New England so it was a good day to change my oil and filter as I have run a couple of tanks with Techron. Figured it was a good idea. The K is easy to work on but I am finding there is a bit of a learning curve. Today I discovered that when replacing the lower fairing it goes on a heck of a lot easier if I remove the fairing over the radiator first. I have had it off a few times but removing it and putting it back on was always a bit of a pain. With the radiator faring off first it went back together much more easily. The other day I was washing the bike and laying on the fairing under the motor was a bolt, never a good thing and my second project for the day was looking around for where said bolt came from. As soon as I removed the lower fairing I found the bolt was from one side of the plastic bracket bolted to the front of the motor that the fairing bushings index in. That was an easy fix. I also replaced the rubber insert that the metal "prongy" mount goes into at the back of the fairing. Everything is nice and tight now with no rattles. A while back I started a thread about suggestions for new foam grips. I received some good feedback about a few good products, thanks guys. The Grab On product looked very close to what was on the bike so I ordered them. While the oil was draining I cut the old grips off and on the end cap was the Grab On logo. So they have been replaced at least once unless BMW uses those grips but I doubt that is the case. At this point I am mostly caught up on maintenance  just need to change the anti freeze. As I had to replace the fuel tank with a really good but non matching one I am thinking about having the body parts painted. I will wait to replace the anti freeze when I have the plastic off for painting.

I very much appreciate the help and knowledge provided by the members here. Thanks guys.

[richarddacat]

Added a Laminar Lip to my "C" shield.  :clap:

Works very well on knocking the wind off your chest and directs air just over the helmet (I'm 5'7"). Keeps about half the bugs off your face shield.

Slab speeds are much more tolerable.  :2thumbup:

[K75RT Keith]

Relocated the driving light relay to the relay box.

[Marky Boy OZ]

I tried to repair cooling Fan Bushes......

And,

Failed.....

[Zipster]

Replaced the left hi lo switches - after having to drill out the retaining screw which was seized tight. The screw head came off with the first turn of the screw extractor so I ended up having to drill through the screw shaft. Thankfully my aim was true and it was a perfectly centred drill so no threads were damaged in the process. I can now bin my temporary fix which was a bulb holder wired to a fuse holder and an auxiliary switch which I wired straight to the battery. Well it did give me a headlight only there was no high beam.

[Inge K.]

Add relays to the headlight circuits, to avoid a burnt headlight hi/lo switch.

[koapono]

repaired right handgrip heater and added plugged connectors to "dashboard" also removed side-stand switch.
i bought a 94 LT in march 2014, 52K on odometer. runs great but has load of previous owner neglect issues. ABS lights always on/blinking, 4-way flashers non-functional, windscreen would not operate and right handgrip heater not working.
ABS did not work, did all the re-sets, tests, adjustments and diagnostics final result was "broken brain" according to PO this is the third "abs brain" on the bike, has ben in and out of Bob's BMW several times, yada, yada, yada. I will remove entire system over the winter, not spending more on ABS fix than i did on the scoot!

while troubleshooting the flashers, heated grip, windscreen most of the faults were due to broken wires and/or bad connection on the dash switches. I cleaned and re-soldered the connections on switches and also cut wires and spliced in a plug for each circuit, the switch with copper spades is for cooling fan, there's plenty of room under the dash panel and now removal is quick and easy, nice to have that out of the way when working on other stuff.

the heated grip had a broken wire under the throttle grip, repair was straight forward.
side stand switch removal was a no-brainer for me, just another component to malfunction and elimination of switch has no adverse impact on operation of scoot.

pics attached.
side-stand switch project just entailed cutting wires, solder together, insulate and tuck into wire harness.

heated grip required removal of throttle grip (done by blowing compressed air into grip and working it off), finding the break and repairing that. works fine!

[Grim]

Went to go for a ride and lunch today and before I got out of my hood the bike was acting like I was shutting off the motor. Had done this a couple times this past week.
Flipped up the seat and wiggled the ecm plug and could duplicate the symptoms. This is a reoccurring issue on my bike. Reseated plug and resumed riding with no further issue.

Think it's time you pull the plug and the ecm appart and clean each contact. Did my best to clean it last year but I guess not as good as I had thought.

[koapono]

removed ABSII system from bike......non-functioning "brain". will replace brake lines with braided steel lines all around.
clutch spline lube
upon re-assembly will install cruise control, servo unit will mount in space once occupied by ABS control unit.

[koapono]

braided steel brake lines. took old rubber hose/lines to hydraulic shop in Richmond, VA explained what i was doing, came back in 3 hours and had brake lines.
less than one hundred dollars for the four lines, fittings and new crush washers, nearly half of that was for fittings, those banjo bolt assemblies were nearly five dollars each!
front lines fit with no stress or interference, will have to wait for reassembly to check fit on rear but i expect no problem.

[TimTyler]

Koapono,

Those copper washers look way to thick to me. The OEM ones are very thin. More washer width means less thread-gripping.

[koapono]

Those copper washers look way to thick to me. The OEM ones are very thin. More washer width means less thread-gripping./quote]

Mr Tyler is right, nearly 2 thread difference tween thick and thin washers. search for thin washers has proved unproductive so i'll polish up the used ones (crocus paper and WD-40) and re-use. some will scream sacrilege but i've done this often with success. if i get a leaky fitting i'll know right away deal with it as required.

[subforry]

For some reason I thought aluminum washers were correct for brake banjo bolts.  Not sure if 10mm is correct but the price is good.
http://www.amazon.com/Earls-177100ERL-Aluminum-Crush-Washer/dp/B000M0DITI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414084377&sr=8-2&keywords=aluminum+washer+earl%27s