Footrest hanger removal....or not!

[jacksdad1963]

1995 K1100LT, I want to remove the alloy bracket/hanger that the footrests fasten to: started on the Left side, removed the upper pair of M8 allen bots, and the tragkorb frame bolts....but the hanger will not surrender!
It seems to be stuck onto the steel tubes that the allen bolts go into. There is also what looks like a rubber mount, towards the rear of the hanger, that is just a push fit.
Sooooo, is the hanger just seized onto the upper steel frame extensions.....or have I missed a fastener somewhere... :dunno2:
I've heated up the 2 upper allen bolt holes and one seems to be moving, but I don't want to carry on beating the #### out of it!

[Zipster]

Have you looked here? http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml

[jacksdad1963]

From the above link....On how to change fork oil....

"Get your graduated cylinder out and refill the forks from the top with the appropriate volume of the appropriate weight of the appropriate oil."

Well F##K Me. Thats helpful..... :dunno2:

I suppose the advice on footrest removal will be 'remove appropriate fixings and remove appropriate parts' !  :hehehe

[jacksdad1963]

Anyhoo....you just remove the 2 allan bolts and the tragkorb frame if fitted, then just beat it until hanger comes off the 2 frame tube extension things....it was just corroded up, soon came off with a bit of heat and a large crowbar!  :clap:
I cleaned up all the mounting points and applied a coat of Coppagrease to keep things from seizing again!  :2thumbup:

[Zipster]

Coppagrease is your friend! My chum can always tell if he's worked on a bike before by the presence of copper grease on all the threads as he paints it on every screw and bolt he touches!! I must admit I'm getting the same habit - especially on my K!

[jacksdad1963]

Agreed! I have a set routine whenever i get a new toy, be it car, bike, bicycle, RC etc. Replace as many fastners as I can with stainless steel, retap bad threads, and coppagrease aplenty!
I have a fixings shop within walking distance from home, and the guys there will happily find me odd stainless bits, plus I keep lots of metric allen heads, bolts, nuts etc ´in stock' ready for the next project

[rbm]

Some bolts shouldn't have antiseize because its presence affects critical torque values.  Stainless steel bolts should have antiseize applied if they are going into aluminum.

[jacksdad1963]

I use coppagrease on most fasteners, going into most materials: its only things like stretch bolts and taper fittings that are assembled dry. In the real world tho, i've had no problems, better to add a bit of lube rather than not: you can get incorrect torque readings when dry fixings 'grab' before fully tight, the only real no no is morse tapers like flywheels and old generator mounts, usually fitted bone dry :2thumbup: