Clutch swap: Whats needed?

[jacksdad1963]

My clutch has started to slip a little, only when revving hard and then only in 4th and 5th gear, for everyday use its perfect :2thumbup:
I'm stripping the bike for a rebuild this winter, and will 'do' the clutch....but I'm wondering just what I need to replace
I'm on a tight budget, so want to keep the price down but don't what to end up with no clutch soon after!
What do you reckon is needed? I'm thinking a new friction plate at least, but what else?

[Motorhobo]

How's your rear main seal and clutch pushrod seal? If either of these are on their way out your clutch disk is oiled and will slip, and it'll get worse the more oil gets on it. If it's the RMS, it'll happen sooner rather than later because the engine oil is coming directly from forward of the clutch housing and is getting slung around constantly. If it's the clutch pushrod seal it's likely to be more gradual because the gear oil has to crawl up the rod from the transmssion and is under lower pressure, so there's probably less of it. I rode my brick with a damaged clutch pushrod seal for over a year. With the RMS things went south in a hurry.

If its a seal, You'll know which it is when you get the tranny off because the inside of the case will be full of oily goo instead of just some dry clutch dust. The smell of the oil will tell you whether its the RMS or the pushrod seal.

If its a seal, you most likely don't need clutch parts and can get by with a rag and good cleaning. After the last oiling I didn't replace the friction disk, but instead went over it several times with undiluted Simple Green and light pass with 400 grit then some Prep-all. 3000 miles later it's works great. Make sure you measure the clutch disk though -- if it's worn past 60% you're better off replacing it IMO.

Info on RMS and clutch pushrod seal replacement is available here on this forum. If you're doing one, If I were you I'd do both.

As always the disclaimer -- YMMV and if anything I say is incorrect I'm hoping someone will correct me...

[Inge K.]

The seal that usually have the shortest lifetime is the o-ring under the big nut in the clutch basket.
It dries out and cracks and often can be removed piece by piece.

[jacksdad1963]

OK, thanks...I don't know if its leaking, but there's no oil showing and the oil levels have been the same for months  :2thumbup:
I think its just wear n tear: the bikes done 93000 and its never had anything replaced that I know of.
So if it is just worn, what is usually replaced?

[Motorhobo]

If you have a bad seal or seals, or as Inge noted, even just a bad o-ring, the oil would first be slung around inside the bell housing and you wouldn't see it. Clutch slip is an early indicator of failing seals. You'll have to open it up and take a looksee. And it doesn't take much volume to coat the entire interior of the bell housing. You wouldn't notice the drop in levels. You'd first notice the change in clutch action.

I wouldn't assume you'll need new clutch parts until you get in there see how much if any oil is in there.

If its the RMS or the O ring is deteriorating, IMO it's not likely you'll make it through riding season without the clutch slip becoming a safety issue. If you can't give full throttle in 4th...well, that's not a bike I'd feel comfortable riding. Been there -- never again.

[jacksdad1963]

The only time I notice is when giving it lots  :eek:
Redline in every gear, then when going from 4th to 5th it slips a little, ease off the gas and it grips again, no big issue but a sign that its on its way out: I still suspect wear, but I'm not an expert! Done a few car clutches tho, and with these we always replace the 3 parts, cover, pressure plate, and bearing.
I don't want/can't afford to replace everything listed, and if left alone would just replace the clutch disc, but don't want to end up doing it all again to replace another common to fail part  :2thumbup:

[TimTyler]

Do you have clutch/shifter free-play adjusted properly?

My guess is that if you don't see oil dripping out of your bell housing weep hole, than your seals are not leaking. Clean the weep hole(s) out with a Q-tip to make sure they're not plugged up.

I'd order a new clutch disk and pressure plates, an O-ring  and some spline lube and find a weekend to dig in.

[Motorhobo]

I had no oil dripping from the weep hole and my clutch was oiled and slipping, not once but twice over the past eight years.  The entire inside of the case was coated with spray but there was not enough accumulation for it to drip.

I didn't replace any clutch parts at all, just cleaned up the existing and replaced the seals. I didn't have the cash to replace the pressure plate but i did replace the friction disc the first time. Then second time was only a 18 months later so i cleaned it rather than replaced it. When you're on a budget sometimes you have to make do. If I have to pull it apart to replace the pressure plate sometime in the future, even the near future...well, that's the way it goes. It gets easier the more you do it.

So I'd say if jacksdad is on a budget it might make sense to wait till it's apart and then put the parts list together based on need. That might not be the best way but clutch parts don't grow on trees. Sucks but true.

Jacksdad -- don't forget to mark the clutch parts when you pull them out so you can put them back in with proper alignment.