K1100LT drivetrain

[jacksdad1963]

I've bought a 1997 1100LT complete drivetrain & gearbox, all the way back, complete with brake disc/rotor, speedo sensor, everything, done just 47k miles. Paid £41  :clap:
Just like to double check tho.....will it fit straight onto my 1995 K1100LT?
My bike has done 93000, needs a clutch, so was planning to redo the drivetrain, paint it up etc, then fit it, along with a new clutch, come the winter  :2thumbup:

[Zipster]

I don't think there's any issue. There were changes around 1993 or 1994 but 1995 - 1997 should be ok. Mine is a 1996 bike but is painted Mystic Red which apparently they didn't paint in 1996 but they did in 1995. Any parts I order are for a 1996 bike and they work even though my bike must have been made in 1995!

[K75RT Keith]

The drive train didn't change.  A 95 will fit up to a 97 with no issues.

[jacksdad1963]

Thanks guys, I'm pretty sure they are the same myself. One thing tho, how can I check for wear?
My bike's done 93k, has been well maintained, but does have a lot of free play in the drive, like when I select 1st gear it clunks bad, and I can let out the clutch a tad and then pull back right away, theres a kind of lag in the drive, hard to say, which I'm putting down to the splines/drive being worn. Its hard to describe, but I'm sure its wear in the drive!

[jacksdad1963]

Well....
Collected the drivetrain, all looking good, then I got home and took it apart: bad! The inner bevel box taper bearing is totally goosed, its the 32x17x10mm one that is only available from BMW, aka 10-6465A....I've searched everywhere for a match! new ones are £40 each, and I think we're supposed to replace both sides.
Even one side will cost as much as the whole drivetrain...what a waste of time  :musicboohoo:

[Motorhobo]

Seems like you got a super deal on all that hardware -- if you have to drop a hundred quid to tie up loose ends that's still a winner.

[jacksdad1963]

Well, I've decided to keep it, I've stripped it completely, and everything else is good  :clap:
The splines are like brand new, I couldn't get the driveshaft off at first, but just kept tapping away and it gave up: the splines were bone dry but in perfect condition.
The swingarm bearings are also good, so I'm going to replace just the broken bearing alone, the end result is a 47k mile rebuilt/lubed drivetrain for less than £100: if the original drive is good I could even sell it on and get some money back!  :2thumbup:

Also: What paint have you used to repaint the cases? I'm thinking I need some kind of heat-proof satin black?

[jacksdad1963]

here's a few pictures  :2thumbup:

[rbm]

Also: What paint have you used to repaint the cases? I'm thinking I need some kind of heat-proof satin black?

I repainted mine using standard 2-part water-based automotive paint, no special heat proof stuff.  I used engine enamel on the engine block though.

[Motorhobo]

I used rustoleum black satin on valve and crankcase cover, footpeg plates, trans, final drive and swingarm and fork sliders. It's a good match but not sure if it will stand the test of time. It's already worn off where my boot rubs against the footpeg plate, but that's to be expected. The upside is its cheap and available everywhere, in the US at least. I hear it helps to put parts that fit into the oven to cure, but I didn't do that.

[jacksdad1963]

Thanks guys!
We have Rustoleum here in England, I'm sure it will last pretty much for the life of the bike  :2thumbup: