The only rust converter that you could use on that would be a 7 lb sledge -- and only if you're fixin' to convert it to a pile of reddish dust. BTW I don't think you can weld after applying rust converter. It changes the properties of the metal. Converts the rust to a different compound and inhibits future rust -- that's about it -- doesn't have the properties of metal and although it can be painted you can break it off with a screwdriver and a couple taps from a hammer.
For future reference, though -- below is a thread from the Internet Sidecar Owners Club. This would be a good protective treatment for a new stand. I don't know what good it would do with a stand that already has existing rust, though. I put rust converter on my stand before painting. Will post pix soon. Input appreciated, since I'm considering dipping the lower section of my stand in rust converter and shooting some through the tube next month.
From the Internet Sidecar Club forum --
>> When I build a new frame after the frame is finished I put a pint or so
>> of 90 wt hypoid oil in it and slosh it around and then let it sit for about
>> 30 minutes then pour it out. Rust problem eliminated for good. If you
>> ever do any welding on the frame after that you have to reapply the
>> treatment.
>>
>> Best regards to all
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
.
>>
>> That works well. It worked in the old days when building steel tubing
>> fuselages/frames for airplanes, and it has worked for me in building
>> sidecar rigs.
>>
>> I used a special oil used for its anti-corrosion, anti-rusting
>> properties, from an aircraft supply, mainly because I had a lot of it!
>> Almost any oil will work OK, including engine oil, which, right from the
>> container, has a lot of these helpful anticorrosives, etc.
>>
>> My method was to construct the frame with clean and dry steel tubing, and
>> when all welding, etc., was done, I would drill and tap threads for a small
>> hole, one in each frame member that was closed off from others. I injected
>> oil, and then installed a screw. The oil spreads all over the inside of
>> the tubing in a short amount of time and riding. _Because of that
>> spreading, you really don't need a lot of oil. You do need enough so
>> there is an oily film on all the inside surfaces.
>>
>>
>>
>> Those of you wanting a somewhat more sophisticated oil product, and
>> easier more immediate coverage, can go to a marina and get a pressurized
>> spray can of engine preservative oil, also called Fogging Oil.
>>
>> By using the spray wand, you can fog the insides before assembly,
>> although I would still recommend the hole and thread method. It is just a
>> lot easier to do it that way and avoid welding on oily metal
.at least for
>> me.
>>
>>
>>
>> Note that there is a school of thought about leaving a small drain hole
>> here and there on the bottom of the tubing, and not plugging those holes,
>> and using them to fog the insides. Drain holes are commonly used. YMMV,
>> depending on construction methods.
