Valve clearance question

[Motorhobo]

Using the leftover shims from the adjustment on my 95 K75 last summer, I was able to get the 94 close to optimal -- but not quite.

Intake 2 and 3 are at .152 - .178 mm, Exhaust 1 is at .279 - .303 -- that's pretty much where it should be from what I read.

But closest I could get on Intake 1 with my existing shim collection was .203 - .229. The .203 gauge was very tight but I could still get it in there. So I'd peg it at less than .210.

Exhaust 2 and 3 are at .303 - .330. The .303 gauge was tight but I could still get it in there, so I'd peg it at less than .310.

The bike has 74k miles and had the original shims -- measured about .1/.1/.16 on the intake side and .23/.23/.22 on the exhaust.

So the question is, is the bike going to kick my ass for being .01mm on the north side of spec? Or will the valves wear that .01 off gracefully over time? I'm going to Bob's this weekend and I'm not too upset about dropping the $18 for 3 new shims but I don't want to make extra work for myself unless that extra .01 is going to get me some bad mojo with my brick.

Van

[TimTyler]

You want the intake to be 0.15-0.20 mm and CLOSER TO .15 mm

You want the exhaust to be 0.25-0.30 mm and CLOSER TO .30 mm

I would make an effort to match the spacing across all three cylinders. I brought my old shims to the dealer and they swapped them out with the proper sized replacements at no charge.

[johnny]

loose valves save lives...

j o

[Motorhobo]

You want the intake to be 0.15-0.20 mm and CLOSER TO .15 mm

You want the exhaust to be 0.25-0.30 mm and CLOSER TO .30 mm

That's what I'd read, but was kind of hoping the consensus here would be that there's a little more wiggle room than that.

I will get the shims.

loose valves save lives...

Does that apply to wheel lugs too? I think I'll try that!   :falldown:

Van