Storage for a few years

[programmasters]

Hi guys,

for some personal reasons I will have to store my k75 (stock non ABS) for about 4 years(no I am not going to prison  :eek:) and I will be able to go check and start it every 6 months + ride it a bit (only in the underground garage because I will have no plates on that bike, so with a bit let's say second gear tops).

Any tips on how to keep my baby in tip top condition for when I will be able to get her on the road again in about 4 years?

Much appreciated

[Scott_]

1st question I'd ask is how dry/humid will the storage space be, as it may make a difference of how you store it. Moisture will be you big enemy here.

You may have issues with moisture causing rusting/pitting on internal engine surfaces sitting for that long, even with 'fogging' of the engine internals. Same goes for the trans and final drive, though not quite to the same degree.
You would probably want to consider a fresh oil change before you park it.

Flush the brake system good with new fluid.

Removing and drying out the fuel tank/lines as much as possible should be safe for the injectors, fuel pump and tank internals. I wouldn't try to trust fuel stabilizers for that long of a time span.

The cooling system should be fine if you drain/flush and refill with fresh coolant/distilled water mix before you store it.

If the space allows, put the bike on the center stand and setup a block of wood or something to place under the engine to "balance" the bike so both tires are not touching the ground. Depending on the age of the tires to begin with they may be due to be replaced at the end of the 4yrs anyway.

I'd plug/cap both the intake air point and the outlet of the exhaust can to keep critters and bugs out.

At the end of the 4yrs, you are going to be dealing with issues of dried out rubber lines, hoses, o-rings, and such, unless you have replaced all of them in the last 5yrs.

I know that Johnny "parks" his Wisc bike and gets back to it about every 6mo or so. Maybe he has some other advise, tips, etc....

[Chaos]

I'd drain the gas and run it dry, change the oils, coolant and brake fluid, take out the battery, maybe spray it down with a light oil or wd-40, cover it with something breathable and not mess with it until you're ready to take it out of storage.  No good will come of short 2nd gear trips.

[programmasters]

Well the bike will be stored in an underground garage (floor -2) in a sealed garagebox. Temperature hardly changes(advantage of being quite deep underground) and humidity is acceptabel(better then a barn) The way I see it I have 2 options. Either I go into full storage mode, and "Fog" everything, get the gas out, change fluids one last time and store it(do they sell big enough vacuum bags?  :hehehe) or I could go with just parking it there and starting it every 6 months (let her fully warm up and drive a bit, each time using all fuel in the tank) and hope that will keep her running.

I know that the US army had a protocol after WWII to store a bunch of willys jeeps with some sort of product.

thanks for the great tips, keep them coming. I was also thinking of spraying a lot of silicongrease on the rubber parts to keep them from drying out.and did not think of the critters, but I must say, it's a fairly new complex and haven't seen many critters around, but plugging the whole up isn't a big deal, what would you recommend I do it with? Because using a rag doesn't seem smart to me, as I do not wanna aid the critters with their possible shelter in my bike.

[programmasters]

Ok i will not be doing option 2, as no good van come of it;). Euhm but i red somewhere wd40 will, after a while, just evaporate. Is this bogus or what oil do you recommend?

[Scott_]

....... it's a fairly new complex and haven't seen many critters around, but plugging the whole up isn't a big deal, what would you recommend I do it with? Because using a rag doesn't seem smart to me, as I do not wanna aid the critters with their possible shelter in my bike.

If the space going to be decently dry I'd just use some fine steel wool in the openings. This will allow air in/out yet keep critters out.
Otherwise if you don't want ambient air in/out, after the steel wool is in place, cover over the openings with a piece or 2 of some heavy plastic and secure it with a zip tie or mechanics tie wire.

[TimTyler]

Maybe drop a fresh tub of this stuff in the container every six months.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-64-oz-Hi-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber-FG50T/100391308

[grant71]

Afew days ago i watched a fascinating and extremely interesting video called STEPHAN FRY IN AMERICA. in one episode he visits an airplane storage  facility in a desert somewhere. the planes while standing in the open air, are wrapped in some kind of cloth fabric to preserve. you can try google .

[programmasters]

I saw that too a while back, however the reason those planes do not rust is the lack of h2o thus the oxigen reaction is slowed down. I am guessing the fabric is just to protect against the abrasive sand. Good idea, but i doubt my garagebox has ghe same condition as a dessert ;-)

[WayneDW]

Maybe drop a fresh tub of this stuff in the container every six months.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-64-oz-Hi-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber-FG50T/100391308

Cool, I need some of that in my gun safe... thanks.

[subforry]

Many good tips have been given.  Mothballs keep rodents and bugs away.  You could leave an open can near the bike or toss them around.  I like the idea of covering all the metal in wd40 or I might consider a light oil.
As said there is no point in starting it unless you can get it up to and over its operating temperature.  If you can get it hot then any water in the oil will escape as steam and the oil detergents will have a chance to do their stuff.  Turing it over without starting might be a good idea.
One more tip.  This is from experience, don't count on getting back to the bike every 6 months.  Many things can happen as the bike is out of sight it is out of mind and will drop in priority of the many things you will have to take care of in your limited time.

[programmasters]

So starting it and letting it run for 20 minutes might be a good idea? I am pretty good at following my calendar, so if i add an recuring event i might be able to do that. I do not think the dehumidifier will work as the garagebox is connected to the bigger garage via vents, so it will have to be able to dehumidify the entire garage, +1km^2. So to start and let run every six mobths or to store and let her sit for 4 years, decisions , decisions , ...

[vintagemilano]

Don't start your engine at all unless you can run it up to operating temperature and keep it there for a while so the moisture generated by combustion is burned off otherwise you are just creating a water milkshake in your crankcase.
Since you say it's going to be in a sealed garagebox then use the stuff like Tim suggested or similar, you can get it at most car parts places and RV places for RV storage.
Do the draining maintenance things that everyone else has suggested. I would include also using a thick motor oil (SAE 50?) squirted in the cylinders and hand cranked over, don't use the starter incase you put a bit too much in and it can't get out the spark plug holes fast enough. You could also use a smear of DC4 compound on rubber bits to try and preserve those better. Plan on just buying a new battery at destorage. Nothing stopping you from filling the crankcase, transmission and final drive to overflow too.
You will probably want to do all this prep work somewhere else and then trailer it to location.
If you do have a burning desire to do something to it every six months then spin the wheels, final drive etc by hand as fast as you can to move the lube around.

Just my thoughts, it's worth what you paid for it.

Another option is to store it at my place and I will drive it gentle as a grandma regularly through out the year and my storage fees will be less. Something to consider.

[programmasters]

I just set it up at it's location for the coming four years. I sprayed silicone on all rubber parts, wd40 on all metal parts, took out the batery and fogged the cylinders. It is in a nice closed garagebox with a small vent to the garagecomplex, but at floorlevel -2, no sun nor great temperature fluctuations, nor moisture as dust is omnipresent for some reason. I have listened to all other forum mbers and will not be starting my bike every 6 months. I like your idea of just overfilling the crankcase and tranny, would you suggest to the filler opening? Will oil not begin to leak into cylinders etc?

I considered lending it to a friend, but since he is kinda the worst maintenance guy, i rejected that idea. I would gladly lend it to you, but since there is this thing, called the atlantic ocean between canada and europe, and dince motorcycles aren't well known to drive on water, i am afraid that's a problem :dunno2: but whenever you are near the coast of eastern america, consider there is a k75 with 69.000 miles waiting to be driven on the other side of this big lake :yes

[mystic red]

Take all the advice except starting it...put that out of your mind....don't over think it.

[Scott_]

I wouldn't overfill the crankcase over the center dot of the sight glass.

1, yes it could leak past the rings into the cylinders and cause you a fluid block when you are ready to start again if you fill completely to the bottom of the filler hole.

2, when the oil is just above the dot but lower than the upper max line, the oil will be sitting at/above the bottom lip of the engine 'output shaft seal' and the potential to leak out is greater than when the engine is just running and splashing oil at the seal. BTDT......

[programmasters]

Allright, i am just gonna leave it be, as mystic red suggests. In about 4 years i'll do a write up what 4 years does to a bike, and post it on this forum ;)