Author Topic: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS  (Read 61458 times)

Offline Shoganai

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  • Posts: 253
How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« on: November 24, 2013, 05:41:18 AM »
When we met by chance in the summer of 1999, she was a one owner commuter; garage kept and well cared for. It was a love at first site that would change my life forever. I named her ichimokusan but a year later I would start calling her The Shop Whore because she like to be on her back on a lift letting the mechanic fuck with her. She didn’t blink a headlight as I forked out almost $10,000 over 18 months and what’s worse, neither did I. Who know you could have an S&M relationship with a motorcycle? She kept hurting my wallet and I kept coming back for more. She owned me.


After 181,000 miles shared together, making her carry WAY more than her makers ever designed for and trying hard as hell to convince her she was indeed a dirt bike and just needed more practice, the toll was too great. I put her out to pasture in hopes that one day I would have the time and money needed to do a full restoration.

Instead, one day never came and years pasted and she became an edifice to my desire exceeding my resources.

Last week as I looking for ways to save or create funds to make ends meet, I thought I could sell her for parts because she was worth more dead than alive.

It was killing me to think about it. I stared at own failure to honor my trust to take good care of her. I felt guilty for sitting on the potential resources she could provide for my family. 



I was crying while trying to pulling The Shop Whore apart but I Jim Beam will ease any pain…for a while.


You can't know what this bike has meant to me and you can't know how deeply I have loved it. I don't expected anyone to understand how I feel about my K11's not even my husband. He dose try though, or at least doesn’t dismiss my feelings.

The next morning we talked and it was agreed we would find the money somewhere to make ends meet.



This has been her sad tomb for over three years










 


After skinning her, I started gutting her.




I disemboweled her.




Bleeding it out is best done before gutting, but in my distressed state of mind I forgot this.




Next hang it up but I would suggest not using suboptimum string, even if it’s all you have laying around; smashed fingers will delay proceeding



Now It’s mostly apart




And the wiring harness is mostly intact.






Remember the bleeding before gutting part…just sayin’



This week I’ll start cleaning, bagging and tagging parts and making a shopping list.




Tomorrow I’ll mount the engine.



 

My basement aka workshop when I last saw it.




After the New Year I’ll start by powder coating the frame dark blue.


Anton has always been so kind to me and supportive of my wrenching. When I spoke with him this week he offered to help show me how to do a complete top end, rings and water/oil pump rebuild.

I’m glad to be owning my responsibility to The Shop Whore and I hope with the extra hours I’m working at the hospital and possible second part time job I could be done in 1 year.



 
.

Offline mystic red

  • Retired Professsional Driver
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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #1 on: November 24, 2013, 09:30:04 AM »
Looking forward to this read...... :popcorm

Offline billday

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2013, 08:10:52 PM »
+1
  • New York State, USA 10977
  • 1985 K100

Offline roninvt

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  • Posts: 219
  • free range, cage free
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2013, 10:27:32 PM »
I enjoy following ur projects and rides.   :popcorm
1990 K75C
1993 K1100RS

Offline noppo

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 73
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #4 on: November 25, 2013, 10:15:05 AM »
Man that was a great read.  Thanks a ton for taking the time to take the pics and upload them with your story.  Your experience makes me appreciate my bike even more.
  • Tokyo, Japan
  • 1992 K1
:bmwsmile Noppo - Tokyo, Japan
11 months here, 1 month in USA (TN)

Offline mikealso

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2013, 06:41:15 PM »
Soon, "as fast as one can go" will go back together and it will be a wonderful and frustrating experience.

very respectfully,
mikealso

69 BSA T-Bolt (from boxes)
74 Honda 750 (saved from scrap)
91 K100RS (begging for rebuild)
respectfully submitted,

mikealso

91 BMW K100RS
69 BSA Thunderbolt

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2013, 08:24:36 PM »
Thank you all.

Yes Mike that's what it means, good catch.

Today I cleaned up the parts pile and organized the parts onto 6 shelves and 6 small parts . Tomorrow I'll mount the engine on a stand, remove the fork brace from the frame.

Next week I'll start prepping the frame for powder coating.

Soon, "as fast as one can go" will go back together and it will be a wonderful and frustrating experience.

very respectfully,
mikealso

69 BSA T-Bolt (from boxes)
74 Honda 750 (saved from scrap)
91 K100RS (begging for rebuild)

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2013, 09:13:15 PM »
File under "thinking out loud"

I need to get my hands on a BMW pin out tool to start taking the wiring harness apart. 

It's cut and patched in several places and I've decided to remake a wiring harness from scratch. 

I understand the process in theory, so it shouldn't be too difficult. The HARD part is salvaging the OEM molex-like connectors. 

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2013, 12:33:33 PM »
So I got all the parts kinda organized.

I skipped cleaning anything and I only labeled a few things. I may regret that later, but what the hell, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Here's all the small parts.



And here's all the big parts.































.

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2013, 12:34:12 PM »
Next, get the engine off the floor.

Using the intermediate housing bolts hole for the engine mount seems natural however the bracket I'm using is for car engines. That is to say it's real big when compared to the back side of a k1100 transmission housing.

I took some measurements and determined I needed (4) 8M x 1.25 x 80 bolts.
Ace Hardware, Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Lowes didn't have any but NAPA did.




Steve showed me how to use washers to provide a good contact surface, shim the bolts and help center them in the bracket.

After 30 min. of trying several combinations of bolt locations I found one that would work. I didn't want to use the mounting pin locations but found I had no choice.



So I shimmed it with a pair of washers to help transfer the force to the housing.











I did much better using this home made lifting system this time and things went smoothly. Especially considering I've never done anything like this.












.

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2013, 12:40:23 PM »
I enjoy following ur projects and rides.   :popcorm


Thank you Ron.

Man that was a great read.  Thanks a ton for taking the time to take the pics and upload them with your story.  Your experience makes me appreciate my bike even more.

Thank you. Keep in mind the pics serve my purposes as well. I use them later when I'm putting things back together to help remind me what things looked like before.

I cannot express how useful doing that is and once you start doing it with your projects you'll wonder why you never used a camera to take visual notes.


Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2013, 01:39:26 PM »
.

Next, remove everything from the frame.




The red circles are to help me remember where these parts go later.


























The BMW Service Manual said to mark these so I did. The Clymer did not.
Can anyone tell me why?




This needs 'splainin'.




I could not loosen the nut on top of the steering head with a ratchet or a ratchet AND a hammer. I kept doubting myself and read and re-read both the Clymer and the Service book.





So I used a ratchet and the pipe for leverage to turn the nut and a crescent wrench to hold the big nut.

I'm sure now I still did it wrong.

What I was calling a 'nut' (number 3) was in fact a screw. I think I was supposed to hold that screw still and turn the real nut (number 4) below it.

Oh well, I'll deal with that later, what is done is done.





I had no problem tapping out the lower bearing race and the top was a SERIOUS PITA.


I've done steering head bearings and races before so this was not my first rodeo. But after 2-1/2 hours I gave up. I knew I did this without a race puller but I think the difference was that I didn't have the weight of the bike to help.


When Steve came home we went to the basement. He flipped the frame upside down and using a slide hammer to hook the race lip he used a real hammer to strike the slid handle.


In the future I'm going to get this awesome tool.

http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=64&zenid=dd24e28b80aabab215b09df4b355fbec




.

Offline bocutter Ed

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2013, 01:51:00 PM »
I did much better using this home made lifting system this time and things went smoothly. Especially considering I've never done anything like this.
I have a 440/880 lb electric cable hoist for that. Also comes in handy when I need to do some real work on the bench ... just put the brick up on the mezzanine.
  • Toronto, Canada
  • '61 Puch DS60 - '66 Puch 250 SGS - '87 BMW K75s

Offline Scott_

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2013, 07:19:18 PM »
Quote
In the future I'm going to get this awesome tool.

I thought you already had one of them, or borrowed one the last time you did steering head bearings.....

Basically you use a combination of 3 & 4 to set the pre-load torque of #7 then after that is set, you have to hold #3 when installing the triple upper(#2) between #7 and #4.

Like you said it will all come later when you assemble the triple tree.
  • My Garage
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
1997 K1100LT 0302488 (R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb

Offline billday

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #14 on: December 04, 2013, 12:26:28 AM »
Great reading, thanks again.
  • New York State, USA 10977
  • 1985 K100

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #15 on: December 04, 2013, 08:26:09 AM »
I know I set HM VII as the dead line but Steve and I talked about the reality and the depth of this project last night.

If I only had $200 a month, that's only $2400.
The truth of the matter it will cost several thousand dollars.
Steve estimates $6000

Let me break it out as far as I understand this process.
(just off the top of my head)

1. Powder coat frame - Cobalt blue

2. Powder coat all of the following black.
Final Drive
Drive shaft housing
Intermediate housing
Exhaust protection plate
Exhaust bracket left
Both foot peg brackets (black with cobalt blue raised areas)
Transmission housing
shift lever
Triple clamp
fork tubes
handle bar (minus where the controls attach)
Clutch and brake handles
rear brake lever
brake caliper housings
"H" bracket
Rims with cobalt blue pin stripe
Center and side stands
alternator housing cover

Satin Black Velvet Ceramic coated exhaust headers

ChromeX bright polished aluminum ceramic coating exhaust can

Black Gloss Ceramic coating the following
Engine block
Oil sump
Oil pan cover
Timing chain cover
Crack case cover
Cylinder head cover with cobalt blue stripe


Assess every nut, bolt, washer and screw for stainless steel replacement

New wiring harness (I'll make this from scratch)

Rebuild the water/oil pump

Rebuild the top end

Rings and assess cam tolerances

Create functional crash/drop bars for front fairing

Create functional crash/drop bar for tragkorbs

Replace tragkorbs with NEW ones

Repaint the entire bike (color yet to be chosen)




Keep in mind to paint power train (front to rear) they will have to opened and gutted so there'll be a mess of one time use things that'll need to be bought.


Anton said he would help me with the deep engine work.



Offline Brad-Man

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #16 on: December 04, 2013, 10:05:03 AM »
Shoganai:

Quite the project you have set up for yourself!

I am in the middle of a '75 RD350 ground up myself that will have a tricked out RD400 engine in it, so have an idea of what you will be going through w/the much more complex BMW.

If I may, I'd like to ask a few questions about your ceramic coating the engine parts - and PLEASE do not take any offense that I certainly do not intend.

While I realize that the engine is water cooled as compared to the air cooled bikes that I have had in the past, it is my understanding that both ceramic coating and powder coating are thermal barriers, and as such are appropriate for intake systems and exhausts to keep heat out/in as desired.

I realize also that the more heat retained in the engine the more theoretical efficiency.

I have heard a great deal about air cooled engines that have been powder coated coming to untimely ends because they simply could not shed the heat (cylinder heads and barrels powder coated).

While I don't imagine this is anywhere near the problem on a water-cooled engine, I would like to ask, knowing that 4V engines have a bit of a cooling problem around the valves as compared to the 2V, is keeping the heat in what you want to do?  Will you be adding an oil cooler to help offset the additional heat kept in the engine?

Once my RD project is on the road, I intend to do some serious upgrading of my '85 K 100.  I already have a k100-4V engine/tranny/paralever rear/final drive, 4V forks and K1100 tripletree and brakes and wheels, and will be tearing it down to the frame for paint.

I personally like the idea of painting frames and anything else that can get rocks thrown up against them, as once powder coating gets chipped it is a major effort to get fixed, whereas paint is a much easier process - not sure how ceramic is in this regard.

I do have bits powder coated (switch assemblies come to mind) and my exhaust/expansion chambers ceramic coated. so I am definitely not against either process, just wondering if it is the best decision for your engine....

Since I have some idea of what such projects mean to the individual (I sweat every detail, but then again I'm a programmer/engineer and therefore very anal), I just want to make sure that you have everything taken into consideration as far as the coatings you will be using on the engine....

I look forward to seeing more of your project and have enjoyed reading what you have done and where you are going with it.

When I finally have time I will be posting pics of my RD project on another forum and will post some pics of my '85 and a link to the other forum thread on this forum so you can see what I have done/am doing, because I love reading about others builds to get ideas and learn.

  • Marietta, GA
  • '85 K100
Toys don't make the Man - Man makes the Toys...
'74 RD350
'75 RD350 w/Modified 400 engine, Chambers & MZB iggy

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #17 on: December 04, 2013, 10:30:54 AM »
Cool post and food for thought.
I'm busy today, but reply in more detail later.

Thank you.


Shoganai:

Quite the project you have set up for yourself!

I am in the middle of a '75 RD350 ground up myself that will have a tricked out RD400 engine in it, so have an idea of what you will be going through w/the much more complex BMW.

If I may, I'd like to ask a few questions about your ceramic coating the engine parts - and PLEASE do not take any offense that I certainly do not intend.

While I realize that the engine is water cooled as compared to the air cooled bikes that I have had in the past, it is my understanding that both ceramic coating and powder coating are thermal barriers, and as such are appropriate for intake systems and exhausts to keep heat out/in as desired.

I realize also that the more heat retained in the engine the more theoretical efficiency.

I have heard a great deal about air cooled engines that have been powder coated coming to untimely ends because they simply could not shed the heat (cylinder heads and barrels powder coated).

While I don't imagine this is anywhere near the problem on a water-cooled engine, I would like to ask, knowing that 4V engines have a bit of a cooling problem around the valves as compared to the 2V, is keeping the heat in what you want to do?  Will you be adding an oil cooler to help offset the additional heat kept in the engine?

Once my RD project is on the road, I intend to do some serious upgrading of my '85 K 100.  I already have a k100-4V engine/tranny/paralever rear/final drive, 4V forks and K1100 tripletree and brakes and wheels, and will be tearing it down to the frame for paint.

I personally like the idea of painting frames and anything else that can get rocks thrown up against them, as once powder coating gets chipped it is a major effort to get fixed, whereas paint is a much easier process - not sure how ceramic is in this regard.

I do have bits powder coated (switch assemblies come to mind) and my exhaust/expansion chambers ceramic coated. so I am definitely not against either process, just wondering if it is the best decision for your engine....

Since I have some idea of what such projects mean to the individual (I sweat every detail, but then again I'm a programmer/engineer and therefore very anal), I just want to make sure that you have everything taken into consideration as far as the coatings you will be using on the engine....

I look forward to seeing more of your project and have enjoyed reading what you have done and where you are going with it.

When I finally have time I will be posting pics of my RD project on another forum and will post some pics of my '85 and a link to the other forum thread on this forum so you can see what I have done/am doing, because I love reading about others builds to get ideas and learn.

Offline mystic red

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2013, 11:28:29 AM »
 :popcorm

Offline Scott_

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #19 on: December 04, 2013, 05:45:18 PM »
File under "thinking out loud"

I need to get my hands on a BMW pin out tool to start taking the wiring harness apart.

It's cut and patched in several places and I've decided to remake a wiring harness from scratch.

I understand the process in theory, so it shouldn't be too difficult. The HARD part is salvaging the OEM molex-like connectors.

During the process of the mechanical stuff, why not also keep your eyes open for a complete harness from a breaker. Potentially not butchered and then you would have more extra parts......
  • My Garage
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
1997 K1100LT 0302488 (R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #20 on: December 04, 2013, 06:15:25 PM »
Ok Brad, I've re-read your post and done some research and I agree with you re: ceramic coating the block.
However, powder coating is still on the table.


BTW - check out this page with 100's of powder coating colors. http://boneheadperformance.com/color-charts/

I like the Hawaiian Blue for the frame.



Scott, I was thinking the same thing.
I found and bought a un-molested complete 1994 K1100RS fuel injection wiring harness just yesterday.

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #21 on: December 04, 2013, 06:26:56 PM »
I'm currently keeping my eye open for a supplier of wire.

I think I should be looking for GXL 18g.
Any thoughts on that?

These are the wire colors I need based on the Service Manual wiring diagram.

W = White, R = Red, G = Green, L = Blue, Y = Yellow, O = Orange, V = Violet, B = Black, Br = Brown, Gr = Gray

B/R, B/G, B/L, B/Y

W/B, W/R, W/L, W/Br, W/R, W/L, W/Br, W/Gr

R/B, R/W, R/Y

G/B, G/W, G/R, G/L, G/Y, G/V, G/Br, G/Gr

L/B, L/W, L/R, L/G, L/Y, L/Br

Y/B, Y/R, Y/G, Y/Br, Y/Gr

V/B, V/W, V/G

Br/W, Br/R, Br/Y

Gr/W, Gr/L


Offline rbm

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #22 on: December 04, 2013, 06:56:16 PM »
So I got all the parts kinda organized.

I skipped cleaning anything and I only labeled a few things. I may regret that later, but what the hell, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Challenging project but nice to see you're trying to restore a loved machine.

I think you are right ... that you may come to regret that later.  When I did a teardown of my K75, I put all the parts into zip lock bags.  Then I labelled the bags with the parts and parts count that the bag contained.  I tried to group parts by the region of the bike from where they came.  Even so, one year later, I still have a few parts that I can't quite remember where they go.  I do figure them out in the end eventually.  Your partitioned boxes might be organized now, but how about 6 months from now?

As for cleaning, you might find that cleaning the parts now before storage is a time saver in the end.  This is borne out through experience; read through posts by A.T.T-W. on advrider.

Food for thought.
  • Regards, Robert
Toronto, Ontario

1987 K75 - Build Blog @http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/

Offline Shoganai

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #23 on: December 04, 2013, 07:26:31 PM »
Thank you.

I couldn't find your user name.
Would you mind linking me?

As it turns out I currently have more time than funds for this project.
I was I little rushed to clean up the mess I made of the basement and the house for Thanksgiving.
There is no cleaning sink/tub in the basement at this time. That means I'll have to take everything upstairs, thru the house and kitchen to the laundry sink.

I'll take your advice on the cleaning and labeling things.


As for cleaning, you might find that cleaning the parts now before storage is a time saver in the end.  This is borne out through experience; read through posts by A.T.T-W. on advrider.

Food for thought.

Offline Brad-Man

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Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #24 on: December 04, 2013, 11:03:00 PM »
I like that color!

It's an awful lot like the Karibic Blau that I have on a set of side panels, fender and gas tank that I may use instead of the Polaris Silver that came on my bike.

I suppose that if a professional does it and puts it on thin that you would be okay with powder coating the engine, but as I said earlier, I like paint where rocks can chip something.

I am looking forward to your build.
  • Marietta, GA
  • '85 K100
Toys don't make the Man - Man makes the Toys...
'74 RD350
'75 RD350 w/Modified 400 engine, Chambers & MZB iggy

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