Oil Filter Cover Screw Stripped 93 K75S

[TechPoet]

After oil & filter change, as I was putting in one of the three filter cover screws ( AS Cycles Fiche )
I felt that tug of resistance ("dude, something's wrong here")
I backed it up a bit and then powered through ("hmm... what was that? maybe it's ok")
But as I tightened it, a thread stripped (on the screw) and it spun.
I took it (stripped screw) out
Put in one of the good ones, very carefully, and did not crank it, just hand tight (or less even)
I will wait until I have a few extras before I really crank it

arrrgghhh #$%^&*()!

Should I just assume that the block (oil pan) is wacked now and I need to tap and re-thread?

Also, do ya'll use a torque wrench (to 7ft lb) on these or just go a little over hand tight with a socket wrench?

[lhead]

Tapping and rethreading may not do it. I've found two different times on my rs where a bolt simply stripped even though I did nothing wrong.

In this instance, the Helicoil is your friend. Luckily, the oil filter cover bolts into the oil pan. You can remove the pan (after draining and saving the oil if it's new) and then turn the pan over and do the job easily. Nothing's worse than trying to drill a straight hole while lying on your back under a motorcycle. The bolt in question is an M6 x 20 mm. Any auto parts store should have that size Helicoil kit in stock.

Chris Harris on YouTube has a video concerning oil pan removal on an LT.

Good Luck!

Charlie

[TechPoet]

Thanks Charlie. I ordered the Helicoil off amazon http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK/ref=pd_sim_auto_2.

The instruction pdf recommends a 6.25mm bit - I should use aluminum not steel, right?

Their instructions were so tecky... countersink? Really?

[lhead]

I used steel inserts on one of my valve cover hold down bolts. The instructions my kit came with said to drill the hole out with a 1/4 inch drill. Drill as staight as you can. Put the supplied tap into a tap handle. If you don't have a tap handle, go to the hardware store and buy one . They're less than 10 bucks and afford a lot more "feel" to your hand when insterting and turning the tap. Put a slight amount of light oil on the tap flutes and instert it squarely into the hole. Push down and rotate the tap clock wise until you feel it bite in. Turn it in one full turn, then back it out 1/2 turn to clear chips that the tap creates. This helps prevent the tap from binding as it cuts. Continue the is one turn, back 1/2 turn routine for the duration of the cut.

Follow the instructions on the package to place the insert and break off the drive tang.

Countersinking the hole? I've never heard of the need for that when installing a helicoil.

Ask if you don't understand something. Happy to help.

Charlie

[TechPoet]

Any recommendations of what should I use for the oil pan gasket?

Clymers has it as 3 Bond 1216 gasket sealer.

Is that a liquid gasket in which I won't need a fitted, factory thing?

[rbm]

I just refitted my oil pan. I used Permatex Red gasket sealer.  First scrupulously clean any gasket material from both surfaces. I just used a thin bead and I circled all bolt holes.  Inserted all screws and tightened until resistance was felt and the Permatex was slightly squished.  I let the sealant cure for 2-3 hours and then torqued the bolts to spec in a cross pattern.  Any squeeze-out was removed a couple days later.

[Scott_]

i used permatex blue on my oil pan 2yrs ago and no leaks. i think most gasket sealers will work so long as its oil resistant.