Sealant type for valve cover gasket K75S

[achtung3]

After having my valves serviced by my mechanic the oil just started to leak and now I have to replace the 20+yrs old gasket, I wished that they would had replaced at the valve service. :dunno

Now that I have the parts off, can anyone advise me on what kind of cleaning fluid to clean the cover and groves and the type of sealant to use?

Very appreciated for any information.  :riding

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[wmax351]

It's some sort of flexible gasket sealant. The spec is 3-bond. Permatex blue would work.


Cleaner wise: a coarse rag and some acetone.

[TimTyler]

I cleaned mine gently with those Scotchbrite green plasticky scouring pads.



Used Yamabond 4 to seal it 10k miles ago and it hasn't leaked. Bought it at the local Yamaha dealer.

[rbm]

Permatex Blue is old-school but works.  Better might be Permatex Red which is an improved formula over Blue and made for higher temperatures.

[achtung3]

Ok!

Which one?

I found in my garage closet a tube of Permatex BLUE RTV and Permatex MOTOSEAL 1 (GREY).

Or should I buy the RED?

Getting my gaskets tomorrow morning.

Thank's

[rbm]

If you have the Sensor-Safe Blue RTV, use it.

I did some research on liquid gasket makers when I was rebuilding my water/oil pump.  By reading the Permatex web site, I found out that the Permatex product line of flexible gasket makers have apparently similar features but actually widely varying performance figures and chemical composition.  The Sensor-safe Blue is a good choice for your application.  It is a Oxime silicone rubber product that cures on exposure to moisture in the air. A slightly better performing product is the Permatex High Temperature Red RTV.  It is a Acetoxy silicone rubber product that also cures on exposure to moisture.  This product withstands engine heat better than the Blue RTV.  If you have the Blue, use it.  Don't use the Permatex Motoseal because it is a synthetic butyl rubber product that cures by evaporation of solvents.  This can't be good for the rubber seals around the cover.

A bit off topic but ... if you do rebuild your water/oil pump, a good replacement for the 3-Bond product recommended by BMW is either the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker or the Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealant.  Use these products for the seal between the pump housing and the engine block.  If you can get ahold of the Permatex Surface Prep Activator for Anaerobics, then do so; it will guarantee a oil tight bond in that application.  These flange sealers cure in the absence of air and can withstand the oil pressures encountered in the oil pump.

[Grim]

My opinion for what its worth.

Application of most RTV sealants...as little as possible. Too much and it squeezes out on the inside, it will often dislodge and make its way to the oil pump and possibly block the pick up.


Permatex Blue....dont like it at all and quit using it years ago. That said if I had it Id use till its gone. For nooks and crannys on the half moons on its fine. Less is better though.
 Seems very prone to the above problem. Synthetic oils seems to break the seal it makes easily. Same with exposure to fuel. It just doesn't seem to hold up. If its somethign that is taken apart often I guess it has it place.

Permatex Ultra black is my go to product.
Its more oil and fuel resistant then the Blue. Seems to stay stuck to the metal surfaces better then Blue so less problems with fuel and synthetic oil getting past it. Most autoparts stores stock it so easy to find.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

Permatex Red. I have not used it but after reading about it I will be giving it a try. Seems like a step above Ultra Black.

They also have this that looks interesting but no first hand experiance: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-sensor-safe-high-temp-rtv-silicone-gasket-detail

The Motoseal Gray doesn't say its Sensor safe. Id skip it for that reason alone on fuel injected motors (transmission Id consider it). It seems to be a product to be used in place of a gasket.

"The right stuff" Gray and black do say sensor safe.
 They are stiff products that the excess will not come loose inside the crank case, bond well with metal and can completely replace gaskets. In fact some OEM use these products in place of Gaskets. Toyota uses this type product on oil pans from the factory. Its HELL to get off. That said after using a cork gasket on the oil pan (that had a RTV product originally) when I rebuilt the motor in my 4Runner...I wish I had used this instead. I think before its all over I'll be pulling the pan to reseal and I only have 20k on it now. :(
 On a valve cover you need to get off periodically Id skip it for sure. 

[wmax351]

If you have the Sensor-Safe Blue RTV, use it.

I did some research on liquid gasket makers when I was rebuilding my water/oil pump.  By reading the Permatex web site, I found out that the Permatex product line of flexible gasket makers have apparently similar features but actually widely varying performance figures and chemical composition.  The Sensor-safe Blue is a good choice for your application.  It is a Oxime silicone rubber product that cures on exposure to moisture in the air. A slightly better performing product is the Permatex High Temperature Red RTV.  It is a Acetoxy silicone rubber product that also cures on exposure to moisture.  This product withstands engine heat better than the Blue RTV.  If you have the Blue, use it.  Don't use the Permatex Motoseal because it is a synthetic butyl rubber product that cures by evaporation of solvents.  This can't be good for the rubber seals around the cover.

A bit off topic but ... if you do rebuild your water/oil pump, a good replacement for the 3-Bond product recommended by BMW is either the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker or the Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealant.  Use these products for the seal between the pump housing and the engine block.  If you can get ahold of the Permatex Surface Prep Activator for Anaerobics, then do so; it will guarantee a oil tight bond in that application.  These flange sealers cure in the absence of air and can withstand the oil pressures encountered in the oil pump.

+1 on the Anaerobic flange sealant/gasket maker, but not for the valve cover. That stuff is great.


The valve cover isn't really that critical. just needs a tiny smear.

[tg4360]

Call me crazy but the last time I was in there, I replaced the rubber valve cover gasket and bolt seals with new ones (they were original and it was time).

I didn't use any sealant and its stayed oil tight.


TG

[wmax351]

The main need for sealant is on the halfmoons, and the interface between the timing chest. Otherwise it may just be excessive. It does help keep the gasket in place, though.

[achtung3]

Got my valve cover fitted and sealed, took for a weekend ride up in the hills and all is working perfect, no sweating or leaking of any sort on my 800mi trip.

Thanks for all for the help.

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[achtung3]

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