Replacing rear master brake cylinder 94 k75rtp ABS any tips?

[Oliver]

I just received my replacement 12mm magura rear master brake cylinder, only 130 from beemer boneyard. sweet deal. anyway I was just wondering if anyone had any tips on this?  I will also be re routing the back brake line away from my non functioning abs to the caliper then  changing the pads and bleeding them (Im not the richest guy so Ill be using a cheap pump bleeder from Harbor freight). So with all that in mind and the fact ive never done it before any information someone has or knowledge of possible things I may run into would be very helpful. When the new brake line comes in for the front I will be re routing that as well and taking out all of the abs.

[TimTyler]

The brake line routing from the rear master cylinder directly to the caliper requires the hose attach to a fitting just below the swing arm (allowing for slack so the swing arm can swing) and then through a rubber bushing which fits a notch in the swing arm, and then L's into the caliper.

I was lucky to find a patient local brake line shop that took the time to craft one that fits perfectly without charging me a bunch. You could find a used hose+fitting setup from a non ABS bike too.

[Grim]

On my 1100 I bought a hard line and bent it up to run back to the stock hose at the stock location. Then removed the hard line running up to the ABS. Did the same on front under the tank where there were some junctions.

[Oliver]

Yea Im not to worried about the abs Ive got lines on the way and the rear I will probably just rout the line from the abs to the caliper it seems long enough. The cylinder didnt come with the bolt and lock nut that attaches to the end of the boot so Im wondering about that? Im also trying to replace the dust seals on my new replacement showa forks, which is turning out to be a bitch

[TimTyler]

Maybe use fork gaiters instead of the dust seals?

[Oliver]

Never even thought of that. Im pretty sure the actual seals are good its just the top dust seals look bad. I compressed them a lot when I got them and no oil spillage. Ive got such a laundry list of things to get done. The brakes are bothering me the most. Just picked up the pump bleeder from the hardware store. Should I pump new fluid in from the bottom?

[TimTyler]

I have the older sport forks and I removed the 1" high dust caps when I installed the fork gaiters. Fork seals are necessary either way.

On the brakes, use your bleeder to build suction at the caliper and keep filling the fluid reservoir up top with fresh DOT4 until all the old fluid is sucked out below.

[Oliver]

I am aware of those things, I was just saying I heard it was easier to get out air bubbles if you refill from the bottom.