Author Topic: Clutch Cable?  (Read 3212 times)

Offline cmichael

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 60
Clutch Cable?
« on: July 17, 2013, 11:59:25 AM »
Doing some prep work before my first "long" ride and want to replace my clutch cable. I know there are two sizes, does anyone know where or which end the part number is imprinted?  I have a standard K, I am assuming it is the shorter of the cables but want to verify before ordering :yes.

Thanks all :yes
1995 K75

Offline wmax351

  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1237
Re: Clutch Cable?
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2013, 12:04:31 PM »
You need the longer one, as the standard K has "RT" bars, which are higher.
  • Albuquerque, NM
  • 91 BMW K75 Standard, 98 Moto Guzzi California EV
Bikes:
Current:1991 BMW K75 Standard, 1998 Moto Guzzi California EV11
Past: '83 BMW R65LS, '75 Honda CB550F, '69 Honda CB175, 1999 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, 1973 Triumph Tiger TR7V, 1971 BMW R75/5 in Toaster outfit, 1979 Harley Davidson XLS-1000 Sportster Roadster

Offline cmichael

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 60
Re: Clutch Cable?
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2013, 12:34:37 PM »
Cool deal....If I were to switch bars in the future would the longer cable be too long?
1995 K75

Offline billday

  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1341
Re: Clutch Cable?
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2013, 05:35:39 PM »
No, you can make it work.

The tough nut when changing handlebars is the brake line from the master cylinder to the pipe in the steering head.
  • New York State, USA 10977
  • 1985 K100

Offline hector planter

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 22
Re: Clutch Cable?
« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2013, 04:08:01 AM »
   I just changed the bars on my K75s to RT bars I borrowed of my R80, all was fine but could do with a little longer brake hose to the master cylinder, It does reach but the master cylinder is no longer horizontal, I will get a slightly longer one someday 35mm should be enough, so i guess going the other way would be even easier.  Also having recently changed the clutch cable I found I could tape the new one to the old one and pull it through, bottom to top, one good yank was all it took, no need to remove the tank or the fairing.

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