NGK Plugs and "terminal nut?"

[Michael in AZ]

I decided to pull and change the plugs on my '92 K75rt while I am waiting for a new throttle cable to arrive. So when I went down to the local Autozone, I found they do indeed carry the NGK7912 plugs. But looking at the plug, the insulated side does not look the same at my Bosch DX5. Specifically, there is a simply bare bolt at the end where as the Bosch has what I think is called a terminal nut on it. I used the search function for Motobrick and can't find anything. A quick Googling shows there seems to be some disagreement as to if the terminal nut is even needed.  :dunno2:  So. Do I need to order/find terminal nuts: Yes/No? As always, "thank you for your support."

[roninvt]

I run the NGK D7EA in my 1990 K75C.  NGKs do not come with the terminal nut. I believe they are required for a proper connection.

[johnny]

i getts my plugs from napa cause they usually gotts them in stock... i transferred the threaded end from my existing ngk plugs to my new ngk plugs... butts the 1st time i opened the plug boxes at napa i showed them the threaded ends were missing... they went to the back of the store and returned with 4 threaded ends... been using them ever since...

j o

[roninvt]

i did the same thing!!

[Scott_]

The first set of plugs that I got without the terminal tops I took down to my local lawn mower repair shop and got some tops from the "old plug" bucket.
The old plugs out of the bike didn't have removable terminal tops, so that wasn't an option.

[Michael in AZ]

Well 2 out of 3 places in town don't have a clue when I mention/show them the terminal nut. So I will see when NAPA opens tomorrow. Otherwise it's order 3 ¢10 parts thenpay for shipping. :loco: We will see. still looking for the part number for those nuts so one of the local places can attempt to order for me. *hurm*. So it goes. off to do my oil change now...  Thanks everyone.

[lunchbox]

The NAPA I frequent was kind enough to take the time and find a set of plugs with the correct terminal and do a switcheroo. Perhaps you will end up the same experience. Of course I can't remember what plugs they pulled the ends from.

[Michael in AZ]

Well, more Google-fu has revealed that this, is in fact the missing piece: NGK Spark Plug Terminal Nut Item-Code : 145-48. Now, to see if NAPA fairs any better than Autozone and O'Rielly here in Cottonweird. At least now I can tell them where to look if they don't have it in stock.  AND.... I just found that a few folks who have posted over at BMW MOA have used the Autolite 4163/4164 on their bricks. Although that one is not listed on our alternative parts section. So I may have another choice after all.

[argent brick]

OK, I have to ask. Is the NGK D7EA or the 7912 the fancy plugs with the super big spark?

[Michael in AZ]

OK, I have to ask. Is the NGK D7EA or the 7912 the fancy plugs with the super big spark?

Not that I know of, Argent. They are just the lower cost Bosch equivalent plugs (from China?). Supposedly last MUCH longer than the Bosch as well.

[Michael in AZ]

Well, after all the suggestions for how to go about this, and with the Napa folks clueless as well I decided to go a different direction. There are two Autolite plugs that cross reference for the Bosch plugs: 4163 and 4153. I found some old threads on BMW MOA with folks who have used them with satisfaction. 4163 are resistor plugs, and 4153 are non-resistor. Not that I have any damn clue what the difference is. Anywho, it was recommended to run the 4163 in hotter climates...so we will see what we will see.  OK, plugs in and firing nicely. If there is any interest, I will follow up in a couple of thousand miles to let ya know how they work out. Perhaps to be added to the alternate part list? As always, thanks for your support!

[Michael in AZ]

Last question on this topic, promise! What, if any, thread lubricant does anyone use when you have replaced your plugs? My Haynes makes a couple of recommendations, but I have seen lots of conflicting information on-line about the need/benefit/risk with more modern plugs.

[Niemand]

I typically use a very small amount of Permatex copper anti-seize on the plug threads for any I replace.  I've been known to forget on occasion, however, and don't really worry about it as I've never met a plug that couldn't be removed anyway in spite of all the horror stories one might hear about second hand.

I put nothing at all on the terminals or plug wire boots and have never had issues there either aside from just plain old worn out wires needing to be replaced.

[johnny]

greetings michael in az...

i aints never used no lube on my spark plugs...

j o

[cy7878]

Pepboys sells a dielectric tube that helps the metal conduct electricity better and avoid corrosion.  A big (3oz) bottle costs about $10 that will likely last you a life-time.   You smear a little on the terminal nut.  The copper anti-seize would go on the thread of the plug and should still be used.

I learned a lesson from my car battery dying because of corrosion across the terminal and the cable from incomplete contact between bare metal.  The lube helps.

[JamesInCA]

+1 for a tiny bit of copper anti-seize, or nothing.

Dielectric grease doesn't help metal conduct better; it does the opposite. "Dielectric" means "insulator."

I use a little smear of dielectric grease on the ceramic part of the plug only, to keep the rubber boot from sticking to it.

[cy7878]

+1 for a tiny bit of copper anti-seize, or nothing.

Dielectric grease doesn't help metal conduct better; it does the opposite. "Dielectric" means "insulator."

I use a little smear of dielectric grease on the ceramic part of the plug only, to keep the rubber boot from sticking to it.

Sorry.  My mistake.  James is right about the insulation.  It does help avoid corrosion across the contacts.