First oil change question -- torque wrench?

[Michael in AZ]

OK, clueless n00b question. I am about due for my first oil on my K75. I have all my supplies and was going to do it on Friday after work when the thought occurred to me: do I need a torque wrench?  :dunno2: I have Mobil 15-50, Bosch filter (no sticker), oil wrench, crush washer, o-ring. And I was planning to use the allen wrench from the bike's took kit. Heck, I even checked out how this guy did it: . Then I started thinking about 20 year old bolts. And my never having done this - thus having no frame of reference for what "too tightly" might mean in this situation. Keeping in mind that I have the mechanical experience of your average 9 year old, I just wonder if I actually need a torque wrench? I would like some feedback here. I am being too nervous, or appropriately cautious? The boards have been an invaluable help to me. If there is any suggestion that I do use one, I have the torque setting cheat sheet downloaded and the nearest Harbor Freight Googled.
To quote Frank and Ed: "thank you for your support."

[Chaos]

others will disagree, I think using a torque wrench for an oil change is overkill. No harm if you want to though.  You don't even need to remove the drain plug, just loosen the 3 bolts on the oil filter cover and let the oil drain out, then remove the plate and change the filter.  Keep in mind that it's way too easy to overtighten bolts, especially in aluminum. Usually snug and a little more is fine.

[voodooskin]

Seems like it would be nice to use a torque wrench at least once to get a sense for about how much to snug up the drain plug.  Maybe you can borrow one?

I had to do the clutch on my K1100 and had to buy a couple of torque wrenches to do the job, both off amazon:
1) CDI Torque model 1002NMRMHSS.  It's a clicker style, units in Nm, range is 20-100Nm.
2) for smaller stuff, I bought a dial-style CDI Torque model 2502LDIN, range is 0-30Nm, units in in-lb and Nm

CDI is a snap-on company, the two items above appear to be top notch.  Not free, but not anywhere near snap-on $$$.

Prior to ponying up for the CDI stuff, I bought a couple of Harbor Fright torque wrenches (on sale for half of their full $19 retail price) and they were just....awful.  You almost couldn't adjust the torque they were so bad.   I'm in no way a tool snob, have plenty of HF tools for this and that, but cheaping out on a torque wrench...    :loco:

[motodude]

Yes, be careful you don't strip the filter cover bolts.  But probably even more likely...

If you have not changed one yet, make sure you don't over-tighten the filter itself.  It can make it very hard to get off.  To the point where--yes, this has happened--that you need to remove the entire bottom cover of the engine to get the filter out.

And, if you change your fork oil.  Don't strip the drain plugs.  There are only a few threads there.

Don't ask me how I know any of this.

Tom

[Michael in AZ]

Thank you Gents. I have decided that for now, I want to learn to do all the basics I can using the tool roll that came with the bike. Anything I find I need I will add as I go along. I can borrow a friend's torque wrench, but I will use that to check after the fact. I think I'll be OK going by feel. We will see how it all goes tomorrow. Perhaps it will be success, perhaps I will have a few (more) stories to share like Motodude. I am keeping a log of all my embarrassing n00b stories to share at a point where I am just a little better at laughing at myself.  :embarass:
*Michael in AZ who wonders why he didn't pick a more interesting handle when he first signed up on the board*

[Michael in AZ]

Done and done. However, it did take two changes to get it right (note to self - always replace the o-ring). Thanks, Chaos, I pretty much followed your method and just pulled the plate. Seemed pretty easy to get a sense of when the bolts were snug by not too tight. But man was I cheesed after the first change when I noticed I was having the "drips." Thanks for the feedback.

[Chaos]

I change the O-ring about every 3rd-4th oil change.  If you notice it having a flat side, instead of being round, it's time to change it.

[Michael in AZ]

Thanks Chaos. The oil slowly leaking out of the side of the plate after refil and tightening was the clue that tipped me off!  :loopy: However, I had noticed the o-ring looked a bit flat during the 1st change. New o-ring...no leak. So I'm pretty sure that was it. I just recycled the oil from the 1st change to refil after I changed out the o-ring.

[TIV]

Thank you Gents. I have decided that for now, I want to learn to do all the basics I can using the tool roll that came with the bike. Anything I find I need I will add as I go along.

I strongly recommend buying a Workshop Manual from Haynes or Clymer. You can probably even buy´em used at Amazon.com for next to nothing. A Workshop Manual makes everything easier. Good luck. 

[cy7878]

Harbor Freight usually advertises in car magazines.   Its torque wrench usually sells for $9.95 with a coupon that is comparable to the $70 wrenches sold at Autozone or Pepboys.  I won't say it's as good as the Craftsman or Snap On stuff, but at least you're not paying $200.  Get the 3/8 size that has torque ranges from 5-80 ft-lb.  For the price, I have each of the 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4.  I think they work well enough.

[Chaos]

+1 on the Harbor Freight torque wrenches.  They are actually very good.

[JamesInCA]

If you're going to maintain the bike yourself, you must ... MUST... have a torque wrench. There are many places where you're bolting steel into aluminum and it is way too easy to over-tighten. And they ain't all obvious. There are plenty of other places you don't want to under-tighten, what with having only two wheels and all.

If money is a consideration, go with the HF wrench. I agree they're fine when you get a good one, and any is better than none.  The problem is manufacturing inconsistency; they're not all good ones, and it's not going to be obvious if yours isn't one of them.  (And isn't the whole point of a torque wrench to actually know, within a narrow range, how tight you're tightening the bolt?)

I'd spring for the $80 or so for a Craftsman 5-80 lb-ft wrench when you can. That (just barely) covers the range of every bolt on your K75. Or a better one, if you have the $$$.  Until then, HF.  I have a Harbor Freight half-inch drive wrench for tires and Jeep axle nuts and such, which exceed the range of my Craftsman, and where "close enough" is good enough.

Also, sign up for the periodic HF coupon email.  I think I paid $12 for my half-inch wrench.

[Michael in AZ]

Well, it was such a nice day Sunday, I figured I ought to run down the hill to Phoenix and check out a HB. Did go ahead and get the $10 special (3/8ths), and of course, since I was already in Phoenix I just took a jog across town over to Fountain Hills to see my brother. Which of course meant the easiest way to avoid the mass exodus of cages on 17 was to ride up the Beeline to Payson, then back down to the lovely Verde Valley. Nice ride. So I am putting the $80 wrench on my "one piece at a time list, James. Thanks for all the feedback, gents.