Author Topic: Spring Break Wrenching (Read 22911 times)

sembrando · « **on:** March 12, 2013, 08:42:50 PM »

The time has come for some serious maintenance work on my K75 to avoid any major repairs down the road. I have about 11 days for Easter/Spring break, a full garage, and my dad's help. Here I are the things I want to get done, depending on money and time (in order of priority):

Final drive/transmission spline lube
since I have it apart I will probably check/replace (if its not too expensive) the clutch plate and cable
Front fork seals
consequently I need to thoroughly clean the right front rotor (and replace pads?)
Change fluids
Radiator fluid, engine oil, tran. oil, final oil, brake fluid
Air filter replace
Rubber hoses (replace if cracked)
Remove RT fairing (it is in pretty rough shape, but there will be some parts FS)
Instal K75 Standard headlight and turn signals (I'll put a WTB in the yard sale) and other body work
Check/clean plugs
Throttle body sync
Valve clearance check (do I even need to do this?)
Check timing and hall sensor

This seems like a lot now that it is in a list, but it doesn't all have to get done. Just the things that are closer to the top of the list. I'll be documenting the project as well as I can. The old girl will be getting a thorough cleaning too. Any suggestions on this? I've heard a power washer works good, but I fear that is too harsh. Also, as many things as possible will be powder coated or ceramic coated seeing as my Dad owns a shop (Premier Powdercoating, Inc.), so the price is right. I have been scouring the liberry and learning about the various tasks that need to be done. Nevertheless, if you have any suggestions or think that something should be moved to a different priority, pleas do tell. I will try to order as many parts as I can by the end of the week. The wrenching will commence Friday, March 22. stay tuned...

TimTyler · « **Reply #1 on:** March 13, 2013, 12:37:24 AM »

Good luck! You've got a full week of work lined up there.

Maybe rear main seal / O-ring when you're clutch spline lubing. There's a transmission seal in there too.

Unless the bike purrs like a kitten, definitely check the valves and adjust if necessary. Throttle body sync is quick and easy with the right tool.

Plugs are cheap. Replace them.

Besides the Motobrick Library, have a look at http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml and http://www.verrill.com/moto/newkbike.shtml

sembrando · « **Reply #2 on:** March 13, 2013, 09:56:06 PM »

I'm getting parts ordered. I'm wondering which forks I need to get seals for. BMW of Countryside has two different types (Brembo and Showa, I believe). I have a 1986 K75 will I be needing the Showa seals? Also, which seals will I need. I looked int the library and the write up was more about later K's and the Hayes manuel is unclear to me which I need to buy for as well. Sorry if this is an obvious question.

Also, I have the seals for the rear main seal and the O-ring. Will I need any other gaskets/seals for the final drive or transmission (I am having trouble seeing if there is one in the diagrams on Countryside's website.

Finally, my registration and title say that the bike is an '86, the seller said the bike is a '88, however it is an RT, which apparently wasn't produced until '89. It has the 17" rear wheel with disk break, which was apparently standard with the RT. Any suggestions as to the actual year of my K?

Thanks for your help, (specifically TimTyler for your suggestions thus far) this is a good learning experience.

TimTyler · « **Reply #3 on:** March 14, 2013, 12:02:42 AM »

I thought Showa forks were mid-1991 and later but I'm not sure.

There's a VIN decoder at http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi and at http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do

#2 Shaft Seal (but I'm not sure)

sembrando · « **Reply #4 on:** March 14, 2013, 12:15:17 PM »

Thanks again. The decoder showed that it is a K75C produced in 11/1985 (which explains the registration for '86). The fairing must have been added sometime during its life. After comparing a picture of my fork to the two in the Hayes it seems to me that I have Brembo forks. It also appears I really need to give my bike a good scrub. Stop me if I'm wrong. Would it be smart to do both right away? Here are the pics:

sembrando · « **Reply #5 on:** March 24, 2013, 02:07:45 AM »

I got everything started today. I got the RT fairing off. I was rather disappointed with just how beat up the fairing was. Whoever owned it before me did not treat it too kindly. I was following the nice instructions in the library, but soon those, unfortunately, didn't help (though they are great in structions). It was just a cobbled together mess of bent metal, not very good wiring, and repaired fiberglass. However, at the same time, I'm glad it is off. The wiring needs a good going over as it too was poorly repaired. Oh well, tomorrow I'll get the spline tear down done and ready for the guard dog moly coming in the mail as well as the other parts. Also, lots of powdercoating will be happening and ceramic coating the exhaust. Here's some pics:

Last pic as an RT:

Torn down:

Sketchy wiring:

The previous owner fitted a fuel cooler, which I may delete (I don't know where I'd mount it) and find some insulation (I already got some great ideas from the thread on it):

billday · « **Reply #6 on:** March 24, 2013, 09:50:14 AM »

Quote from: sembrando on March 24, 2013, 02:07:45 AM

The previous owner fitted a fuel cooler, which I may delete (I don't know where I'd mount it) and find some insulation (I already got some great ideas from the thread on it):

Here's a lead for fuel line insulation

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3776.0.html

(I've got 4 feet of the stuff, just want to find a good home for it.)

sembrando · « **Reply #7 on:** March 24, 2013, 07:58:06 PM »

Well, more year down today.

The tank was not clipped down properly, good thing I never put her down. There was also a rats nest (literally) under the tank along with more wiring that needs to be replaced:

The rear tire was mounted with the rotation the wrong way:

The final spline is in pretty rough shape, I'm not sure if its worth putting back on:

I'm also not sure about the drive shaft:

sembrando · « **Reply #8 on:** April 03, 2013, 09:58:58 AM »

Alas, there isn't enough time in the day. I'm back at school in St. Paul without my brick. There was just too many hiccups in the Maintenace project. The wiring needs a good once over. Also, I'm getting some new tires and the wheels powdercoated along with the tank and the forks and basically everything else possible. My dad is even gonna test some new heat dispersing powder on the fuel cooler. I have the new used standard headlight and mount. It should be pretty awesome when it is finally complete, hopefully in another month or so. I'll keep you posted.

sembrando · « **Reply #9 on:** April 16, 2013, 05:56:16 PM »

Things are coming along slowly now that I'm not at home, but there is some progress. My dad got the wheels powdercoated. I think they look pretty nice.

breikes · « **Reply #10 on:** April 16, 2013, 07:13:02 PM »

I'm sure you can get another 20k or better out of that rear spline. Always think in terms of "the load is spread out over 16 of these warn splines". Grease, at least, pretty much stops the wear where you were at before tear down. If still concerned, there are several guys that can repair the splines to "better than new" condition out there. Check other posts.
Bob

sembrando · « **Reply #11 on:** April 17, 2013, 09:59:35 AM »

Thanks for the input, breikes. I was thinking along similar lines as you, just grease it up well and put it back together. I ordered some Moly Guard Dog which is supposed to be some stellar stuff. Also, perhaps I'll lube the final spline more often since it doesn't take too long and that'll ensure that the splines are well lubricated.

sembrando · « **Reply #12 on:** June 01, 2013, 07:19:36 PM »

Well, finals are over and I'm bak at it. I got some time to get the transmission out. The splines look fine, just a bit dry. I am having trouble getting the starter out though (I was going to give it a quick clean). I checked the manual online here and I've done everything. It seems like I'm just missing something.

rbm · « **Reply #13 on:** June 02, 2013, 08:53:55 AM »

You're just not pulling hard enough. The only thing holding the starte in at the stage you've got it is its O-ring. It probably is tight because of age. Getting a good grip on the starter inside of the battery area is difficult. Wiggling the starter body side to side as best as possible as well as rotating the body whilst pulling should help to break the seal.

sembrando · « **Reply #14 on:** June 11, 2013, 11:45:46 PM »

Thanks rbm, with a little help I got the starter out, it was a bugger though. I also got the forks off to powdercoat them and renew the seals. Also looked at the clutch plate it is pretty worn it is at .194 inches. I am not able to find the minimum, but I'm assuming by the looks of it, it is quite time for a new one.

sembrando · « **Reply #15 on:** June 21, 2013, 02:12:54 PM »

Things are going a bit slow, but my Dad and I powdercoated the tank, front rotors and foot peg mounts today.

WayneDW · « **Reply #16 on:** June 21, 2013, 08:50:15 PM »

Looks great.
I have to admit though that I'm very surprised that you powder coated your front rotor. don't you need those to stop? Do you now grind the powder coat off or can you really get your brakes to grab them that way?
Educate me please.

johnny · « **Reply #17 on:** June 22, 2013, 09:00:19 AM »

i have seen powder coated rotors in socal... soon will have the powder coat worn off where the pads meet the rotors... hear its kinda dicey till then...

j o

sembrando · « **Reply #18 on:** June 23, 2013, 03:38:50 AM »

Yeah, we do it often enough, though more on cars than bikes. The powder wears off pretty quickly, but until then just be gentle. Hopefully I can get her rideable this week. All I need is some fork oil and some time to put everything back together. Any suggestions on fork oil? I've heard honda 10w. I'm not looking for something super sporty, but some sport that can handle bumpy St. Paul streets.

sembrando · « **Reply #19 on:** October 16, 2013, 11:55:57 PM »

Wow, I apologize for my complete and utter absence for the past several months. I'm sure you've all forgotten about this whole deal, but I've had my bike done (or close enough) for over three months and about 4,000 miles ago. I love the naked look and I get a ton of rubberneckers wanting to know more about it. Only problem has been a fork leak from the plug (stripped the threading :mbird ) and the gas getting hot and when the tank is full pushing gas out of the filler (I need to replace the insulation I removed to redo the tank). I will probably look into a windshield for the cold/freeway riding days. Also, I found a belly pan in decent shape so I may attach that this winter for a little bit more sporty look along with some lowered handlebars. I need to paint the engine better too. With the weight of the faring off of the front wheel I've noticed a little bit more spunk in acceleration and a lot more stable cornering. I'm certainly glad I did it, it fits my mostly city driving situation. I am up for any suggestions, comments, concerns, and pious indignations.

Picture of me and my lil sis starting a nice ride down the ol' Miss down the Minnesota/Iowa side and up WI.

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Author Topic: Spring Break Wrenching (Read 22911 times)