Author Topic: K1100LT Oiled Clutch  (Read 10673 times)

Offline KJeff

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K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« on: February 24, 2013, 08:11:23 AM »
I got into my slipping clutch and found very little wear on the disk at 70,000 mi. It was slipping due to oil reaching and contaminating the disk material. I have replaced the rear main and input shaft seals. The troubleshooting flow chart in the manual for oil on the clutch says to replace the thrust ring. I have no idea what that is but I also have a leak at the push rod boot at the rear of the transmission. Is there another seal here that I'm missing ? Is there a seal on the push rod ?

Offline KJeff

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2013, 09:32:59 AM »
What's up Duck ????  I've seen and referenced the clutch diagram before I started - great info.

Why the output shaft diagram ? I'm thinking my problem is sealing the clutch push rod in the input shaft.

I'm not sure how the attached will load. What is #12 ?


Offline frankenduck

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2013, 09:55:17 AM »
You are correct. I posted the wrong diagram. :loco:

That little seal (#12) is a bugger to get out.  It is in there VERY tight.

It's also a bugger to install.  I destroyed one the first time I tried. (Good thing I live near a dealer.)  What I found works best on subsequent installs is to use a socket that's slightly smaller then the hole to tap it in with a hammer.
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
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Offline KJeff

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2013, 11:23:58 AM »
Thanks Duck

So that seals the Clutch push rod ? I'm concerned that oil from the push rod may have been the source of oil on the clutch - the rod was very oily when I removed it -  but the obvious leak is from the push rod boot. Which problem does this seal address ?

Offline frankenduck

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2013, 11:28:27 AM »
It keeps the gear oil in the throwout bearing from traveling up the push rod.  If your pushrod was wet with gear oil when you pulled it out then that's the seal you need to replace.
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
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Offline KJeff

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2013, 02:16:59 PM »
What can I do about the leak from the boot ?

Offline frankenduck

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2013, 02:37:07 PM »
If the nipple on end of the clutch arm is properly seated with the clutch cable attached then it shouldn't be leaking.  If there's a hole/tear in the boot then replace the boot.
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
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Offline KJeff

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2013, 03:07:39 PM »
I'm in it now. I think I just flooded the boot with oil by tilting the transmission putting it in.

Any pointers for getting that seal out ? It's not going too well so far.

Offline frankenduck

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2013, 03:12:46 PM »
Can'r remember exactly how I got them out. (I've done two.)  Just remember that it was a PITA.

Yeah, if it's filled then the trans will drip out the back if you just set it on the ground. (I usually drain them before taking them off. Same with the FD.)
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
New to K bikes? Click here.
K Bike Maintenance & Mods: Click here.
Buy parts here.

Offline KJeff

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2013, 09:11:59 PM »
I got it out. Not sure I'd recommend it, but I drove a small screw driver down between the side of the seal and input shaft in several places until I collapsed it. I would never have attempted that on the aluminum cases but the input shaft is hardened steel. There's a really heavy shoulder that the seal sets on and no real metal on the face so the normal spots for prying or pullers aren't there.

Thanks for all your help Duck

Offline hbanbury

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #10 on: November 09, 2013, 09:54:29 PM »
I just pulled this seal on my K1100LT...I used a 1/2" expansion bolt.. <$3 at local hardware store.  Worked like a champ

Offline johnny

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2013, 11:21:31 PM »
greetings hbanbury...

welcome to motobrick.com...

i have a 6" expansion bolt... i tell her its 12"... works like a champ...

j o
  • :johnny i parks my 96 eleven hundert rs motobrick in dodge county cheezconsin  :johnny

Offline Motorhobo

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Re: K1100LT Oiled Clutch
« Reply #12 on: November 10, 2013, 06:50:06 AM »
If this is what we're talking about, this might help. The tiny seal at the rear end of the pushrod is a PITA to get in straight and if it's in the least deformed it won't do it's job and the clutch will get oiled again eventually. I destroyed the first seal trying to tap it in without a guide just a month ago. The  second time using the pushrod as alignment guide it went in perfectly. In fact, it can't not go in straight.


http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5183.msg31947#msg31947


Hope this helps.

1994/1995 K75 ABS Frankenbike: original engine 136k miles, frame from Gary Weaver (RIP), 173k miles -- Current Odometer: 198k miles
1994 K75 since 2013, 82,000 mi (19k mine) w/California Sidecar Friendship II Sidecar & Black Lab 'Miss B' - RIP

Past: 1974 Honda 550/4 (first bike), 1994 K75 (sold), 1995 K75 ABS (parts bike), Sidecar Dog & Best Bud 'Bo' - RIP

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