Clutch adjustment issues

[motodude]

So I greased my transmission input splines.  Put everything back together.  And now the clutch won't adjust correctly.

I followed the adjustment instructions FrankenDuck has on this site as well as Brian Curry's instructions on ibmwr (they're slightly different).  And in all cases, the clutch won't release.  If, while on the center stand, I hold the rear brake and put it in gear the engine almost dies and it won't come out of gear (while holding the rear brake).

When greasing the splines, I did not completely remove the transmission.  I did not remove the clutch cable from the transmission housing.  I slid the transmission back just enough to expose the splines.

Since this issue has arisen, I have replaced the clutch cable with the "spare" I had previously installed in the bike.

I can adjust the screw in far enough for the clutch to disengage, but it is waaay too far in and everything is waaay too tight.  So, I don't think the clutch plates are, "stuck".

I can pull it apart again but what I'm interested in is any hints on what to look for or what to try next.  The bike has fairly low miles (~32K), is fairly new to me (~5K) and hasn't given me any troubles until the hard downshifting started (which prompted me to lube the input splines--which were dry).

Any ideas?
Tom

[552255]

Possibly a bent clutch rod/actuator??...from sliding the tranny back/forth, did u use some type of guide pins/bolts? 

First place to look maybe is where the clutch lever pushes into the back of the tranny, that its working correctly, bearing upon the actuator, etc.,  I just unhooked the cable when sliding the tranny back for the input spline access...

[motodude]

Possibly (bent), but yes, I did use longer bolts as well as a dolly/jack under the transmission to support things while the splines were exposed.

I did pull the actuator lever, bubber boot, spring and piston/throw-out bearing and all looked good.  The actuating rod does not come out from the rear so I have not determined if it is bent,  but that thought crossed my mind too.

I also disconnected the cable from the actuator lever, I just didn't push the rubber boot and the end of the cable through up through the transmission housing (at least not until I swapped clutch cables).

I'll probably take it apart again this weekend and check the rod.

Thanks for the input,
Tom

[Duc750]

You can get the push rod out if you take the swingarm off. Take the clutch release bearing out and pull the push rod back and out. Your push rod sounds like it has stuck, its the thinner diameter end bit that bends.

[frankenduck]

You can get the push rod out if you take the swingarm off. Take the clutch release bearing out and pull the push rod back and out.

Not on a K75.  You need to remove the transmission to get the pushrod out.

[motodude]

I pulled the transmission this morning.  Der release pushrod ist strait.  Everything looks pretty good. 

Except., the diaphragm spring, where the release pushrod fits into it (looks like it might be made of bronze) is recessed about 1.5 - 2.0 mm (by my crude measurement) below the level of the of the diaphragm spring itself.

I'm wondering if anyone here knows if that is expected or not.  Anyone remember or have a spare diaphragm spring they can check?

Thanks,
Tom

[frankenduck]

Here's a pic of one I found at ADV:

[motodude]

Thanks Duck.

It looks pretty much like mine.  The bronze (looking) center appears recessed about the same.

Everything on my bike looks fine too.  The adjustments appear correct.  But the clutch won't release unless I crank the adjuster screw way [too far] in.  I'm obviously doing something wrong as it worked just fine before I pulled it apart.

I'll clean it up and put it back together again and see what happens. 

Thanks again,
Tom

[wmax351]

Going to be doing a clutch at some point on my K75. The clutch is at the end of its adjustment, so I took advantage of the sale at motobins, and will do it when I get around.

[motodude]

Going to be doing a clutch at some point on my K75. The clutch is at the end of its adjustment, so I took advantage of the sale at motobins, and will do it when I get around.

Looks like I will be as well.  I'm going to pull the transmission (again) and clutch disks and inspect them.  I can't really see me putting them back in regardless of what they look like once I get them out. 

I can't find anything wrong with the adjustment, except it does not completely release the clutch.

Tom

[motodude]

Update:

I put a new spring and friction disk in and performed an initial test.  All seems well now.  I'll test ride it tomorrow.

The old spring apparently had a worn/sunken bronze center.  The spring was also not very "square".

Tom

[Qdude]

How did the test ride go?

 

[motodude]

Awesome!  Mostly cuz it felt good to be riding the RT again.

It does shift well.  The new cable did wonders for the ease of pulling the lever too.  I always thought it was to stiff compared to my other K's.  Now I know why.

Tom

[SJK]

Hi motodude

Im having a similar problem as you had, and I cant seem to find the problem .Did your piston/throwback bearing push back out the gearbox really far ? towards the rear wheel?

or was yours the opposite ? too far into the gearbox?

mine is so far out that if I attach the clutch cable the Clutch is disengaged ....even if the cable is adjusted out way more then the recommend 750mm (the clutch arm adjustment bolt unscrewed as well)