Anudder Noob

[oldfart]

Hey, yall.  I finally joined after lurking for a couple weeks.  I went to school in the tech section whilst looking for my new ride.  I finally bought a 93 K1100LT with 76K miles from my neighbor.  It's in really good condition for it's age since it has always been garaged.  I'm only the third owner. 

Both front rotors are toast as are the pads.  I have new EBC Pro Lite rotors that I plan to install once I am able to get the OEM rotors off.  Damn those screws are tight.  Any suggestions would be welcome.  Both tires are also crap.  They are pretty well worn Metzler's that are 12 yrs old (F) and 10 YO (R).  Not many miles in the last decade or so.  I followed FD's advice and ordered an Avon Azara rear and Bridgestone BT-023 front tire.  They arrived today.  The Avon has a directional arrow on the sidewall but the 023 does not.  Does the V shaped siping point in the direction of rotation or the other way?  (Both the current Metzlers on the bike have arrows.  The front is installed correctly but the rear is backwards. The front tire has the open end of the V going forward.  Go figure.)

While waiting for parts to arrive, I have been taking crap apart cleaning off road grime and oil and doing some of the recommended periodic maintenance from this site.  My windshield rails had really old lithium grease on them and were gummed up.  I cleaned that off and sprayed with silicone as recommended.  I also dug into the guts of the beast and renewed the heat sink compound on the ignition module.  I am sure it was original.  Since I had the battery out, I also pulled the battery tray and decided to check the brushes on the starter.  That didn't work out.  I removed the two bolts and got the starter loose, but the lugs hit the cross frame member and wouldn't come free.  It would not lift up enough to clear the frame.  So I called it good and bolted it all back up.  I'll worry about it if and when it craps out. 

But for now, I have to get those old front rotors off.  I tried heating with both a heat gun and a small propane torch but to no avail.  How much heat do you need for this?  I don't want to overheat the bosses on the aluminum wheel and ruin it.  What is the secret to removing those demonic devices? 

I live about 80 miles NW of Phoenix, AZ., out in God's country.  My nearest BMW dealer is about 90 miles away in Scottsdale.  I hope I don't need their services very often.  I did order new clutch and throttle cables to avoid problems in that area. 

Once I get the brakes and tires installed, I will be able to ride the old girl into the sunset.  Hopefully, while I am still young.

Ride safe.

Jim in AZ

[Rick G]

The bolts for those front rotors are usually loctite in, put the key in the socket head and apply some heat from a heat gun to the head of the bolt and a bit to the wheel around the bolt hole and apply some pressure to the key as you heat, they usually just go pop and break the bond easily.
Sometimes it pays to use a key that fits a 1/2 drive and hit it firmly with a hammer, it will help to break the bond but usually the heat does the trick.
Oh yeah welcome to the forum Jim

[WayneDW]

Hello, Jim.

[frankenduck]

The bolts for those front rotors are usually loctite in, put the key in the socket head and apply some heat from a heat gun to the head of the bolt and a bit to the wheel around the bolt hole and apply some pressure to the key as you heat, they usually just go pop and break the bond easily.
Sometimes it pays to use a key that fits a 1/2 drive and hit it firmly with a hammer, it will help to break the bond but usually the heat does the trick.
Oh yeah welcome to the forum Jim

I think it's corrosion and the softness of the metal used, not Loctite, that makes them so hard to get out.  I've taken many off and never seen signs of Loctite.  Also, I don't think a heat gun gets them hot enough.  I use a small butane torch and even then some of the heads will strip.

Oldfart:  Try a torch.  Those bolt heads are pretty soft so even if heated, you use a good Allen wrench (like the one in the factory toolkit) and are very careful you can still strip the head.  If you do then just drill the head off.  Since the rotor carrier is thick, once you drill the head off, there's plenty of threading left to get the stub out with Vise-Grips once you have the carrier off.

I replace mine with stainless steel buttonheads from ACE HW and use anti-seize on the threads when I replace them on my bikes. (insert discussion about SS grades and shear strength here)

[Crapdealerbob]

Donna & I ride through there regularly on our way to Phoenix.  Close to Wickenburg? Might have to meet up and lunch.

[oldfart]

The bolts for those front rotors are usually loctite in, put the key in the socket head and apply some heat from a heat gun to the head of the bolt and a bit to the wheel around the bolt hole and apply some pressure to the key as you heat, they usually just go pop and break the bond easily.
Sometimes it pays to use a key that fits a 1/2 drive and hit it firmly with a hammer, it will help to break the bond but usually the heat does the trick.
Oh yeah welcome to the forum Jim

I think it's corrosion and the softness of the metal used, not Loctite, that makes them so hard to get out.  I've taken many off and never seen signs of Loctite.  Also, I don't think a heat gun gets them hot enough.  I use a small butane torch and even then some of the heads will strip.

Oldfart:  Try a torch.  Those bolt heads are pretty soft so even if heated, you use a good Allen wrench (like the one in the factory toolkit) and are very careful you can still strip the head.  If you do then just drill the head off.  Since the rotor carrier is thick, once you drill the head off, there's plenty of threading left to get the stub out with Vise-Grips once you have the carrier off.

I replace mine with stainless steel buttonheads from ACE HW and use anti-seize on the threads when I replace them on my bikes. (insert discussion about SS grades and shear strength here)

RG and FD,
Thanks for the advice.  Loctite or no Loctite is a moot issue.  The fact is that those bolts are tighter than a bull's azz at fly time.  I will try to heat them with a torch and see what happens.  If all else fails, there is always the drill option.  I am beginning to think that Duck has the worlds smallest tool set - 3 or 4 allen wrenches and a pair of vice grips.  I love the simplicity of it all.  Whatever works. 

I recently acquired a set of allen wrenches mounted in 3/8 drive sockets.  Now I can get out my longest breaker bar along with a cheater, if needed.  High heat and high torque, it's enough to give anyone  a testosterone rush. 

[robleyd]

Sometimes with the aid of a bar you may get enough torque to chew out the head of the screw before the thread lets go!

I've had good results with an impact screwdriver on the bolts holding the rear disk in place; might be worth a try.

[oldfart]

Donna & I ride through there regularly on our way to Phoenix.  Close to Wickenburg? Might have to meet up and lunch.

Bob,
I'm about 25 miles west of Wickenburg, in a spot on the road called Aguila.  This berg has two signs.  One says Welcome to Aguila.  The other says Bye, yall come back.  They are both nailed to the same post. 
Wickenburg does have some decent eateries and it would be a pleasure to meet you at any of them.  Just let us know when you will be down this way.

[oldfart]

Sometimes with the aid of a bar you may get enough torque to chew out the head of the screw before the thread lets go!

I've had good results with an impact screwdriver on the bolts holding the rear disk in place; might be worth a try.

\\

G'day Mate,
Don't ask me how I know about the stripped socket heads.  I do have an impact driver and may have to resort to it if all else fails.  I may also try cutting a slot in the head with a dremel and use a big common screwdriver and a wrench along with plenty of heat.

[oldfart]

Success, I got those mofo's off.  I used my 3/8 breaker bar with the 5mm socket hex wrench along with my propane torch.  I heated up the boss for a minute or so then used the breaker bar to apply a nice steady torque, and they popped loose just like that.  I was surprised at the length and girth of the screws.  M8 x 25mm.  The other day I was not getting the heat far enough down to free the lower half of the screw.  Once I saw the size, it made it easier to apply the heat in the correct place. 

I had managed to strip 3 of the hex heads on the one side.  So I took my 4" grinder with it's cutting wheel and cut a slot in the head.  I then used my largest mother of all screwdrives and an adjustable wrench on the blade to pop those loose after heating.  The threads did look corroded, especially the upper half, so I used a tap to chase the threads in the wheel.  I will use anti-sleaze compound on the new screws.

My nearest shopping area is Wickenburg which is 25 miles away.  I did manage to locate 12 new screws between the TWO hardware stores in town.  I consider myself very lucky to have found them there.  I was fully planning to drive another 35 miles farther into Phoenix in order to get them. 

At least now I can clean up the wheel and get it painted so it's nice and purty before mounting my new tire and scratching it all up.  LOL

Thanks again to those who helped with the good advice.

Jim in AZ